Rusty Bowtie
General Category => Moose's Tech Corner => Topic started by: TFoch on November 10, 2013, 07:38:36 PM
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I started to wire my 33 Chevy and want to add it to the forum. This is the first time I do this so I don't claim to be an expert. That being said, I hope to take you from start to finish on how I installed a wire harness in my car. To start I purchased a Ron Francis Bare Bones Kit. I don't have electric windows, air conditioning or a big booming stereo in the car so this kit keeps it simple, the way I like it. When I ordered the kit there was a questionnaire to fill out asking questions like distributor type, steering column type and 1 or 3 wire alternator.
The kit comes with a color schematic and instructions for each step to complete the job. When you open the box, there are bags labeled "A" "B" "C" and so on. You start by mounting your fuse panel and running your battery cables.
So here it goes. After the first 3 bags you can start the engine.
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Today day I did bag "A". I have a 1 wire alternator so all I had to do was positive post on the run a wire from the alternator to the starter. I drilled two holes in the floor boards and put some grommets in to run the wires through. My plan is to have the wires go down each frame rail and then come into the inside of the car to keep the outside firewall nice and clean. Here is a picture of the schematic included with the kit.
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Tom
This will be a really interesting thread. I'm looking forward to following your progress.
Moose
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Tom
Once you complete this wiring project (you, Moose or me) can delete the unrelated comments "just like this one right now", so your install sequence will be uninterrupted.
Thanks
Ed
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Before I get too far, I forgot to mention the wires are not only color coded but have what they are for labeled every 6 inches. This along with the easy to follow instructions in each bag make it easy to follow. The wire in the picture below goes from the ignition switch to #4 on the terminal block. A good crimping tool able to crimp red, blue and yellow connectors is needed.
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Bag "B" contained the wire for the distributor. I'm running a GM HEI Distributor so there was one wire from the distributor to the terminal block. Then another wire from the solenoid to the terminal block. The final part of the bag was to connect the red wire from the top of the fuse box to the battery post on the solenoid.
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Bag "C" was for the ignition switch and safety neutral switch. I ordered a dash mount ignition switch with the kit. the wires had the terminals already on them but I had to plug them into the black terminal block in the right order according to the instructions. Then plug them onto the switch. The there are two wires that connect the neutral safety switch to the terminal board. That finishes Bag "C". Once I crimp my battery cables tomorrow and connect them, I can see if the motor turns over. If it does, I've done the job correctly so far.
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Got the terminals crimped onto the battery cables. The post on the compact battery I'm using are brass and screw onto the lead posts that are flush with the top of the battery. I put terminals on with 3/8" holes in them, put the post in the lathe and cut a 3/8" boss onto them. This way the terminal stays centered on the post.
With the first three bags done the car turned over as promised. I didn't start the engine as I don't want to leave fuel in it over the winter. Bag "D" will be next which is the gauges.
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Bag "C" was to wire the gauges. I still haven't finished cutting my black walnut for the dash so I'm going to wait until I do to do this bag. So Bag "D" is to wire the the steering column. The instructions had a table on them to show you which color wire from the kit goes to the GM steering column wire harness. The black plug in the kit has all the letter designations that are on the table to make things easy. The wires come with the connectors on them. Just push them into the black plug and you're done.
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Once you've assembled the connector you can attach it to the steering column to double check it with the table on the instructions. Just for info I'm using an Ididit column with a GM wire harness.
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This is a interesting thread.
Not to sidetrack you but what is the heat air unit?
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This is a interesting thread.
Not to sidetrack you but what is the heat air unit?
Thanks. It's a Vintage Air Gen II Heater with Defroster #506101
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Bag F is the head light and dimmer switches. I ordered my head light switch with my harness but it did come with a GM style plug. To mount the switch to the dash you pull the knob out to the head light on position and then press on the little spring loaded button on the bottom of the switch. Then the knob and shaft comes out. After mounting the switch to the dash push the knob and shaft back in and press on the button again. There are two head light feed wires that go back to the panel. There's a wire that powers the dash lights and the brightness is controlled by turning the head light knob. Then you run the rest of the wires out to each corner of the car for the head lights and tail lights.
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There is a ground wire supplied with the kit in case you have a fiberglass car or a wood dash. The switch does need to have a good ground. If you’re wondering what “WAMCO” means on the column drop refer to the thread called “The Wild Ass Mining Co” in the General Discussion section. I decided on a floor mounted dimmer switch. The plug in the harness is for a GM style dimmer switch. One wire goes to the panel, the other two go out to the headlights with one also going to the high beam indicator light on the dash. I plan to replace the knob with a more vintage style one. I'll have to hunt around for one that I like.
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Cleaned up a little of the wiring. I used one connector made for a 4 awg wire to connect 3 wires to the battery post on the starter. I brought home a tool from work to make the crimp. Added some shrink sleeve and then some nylon mesh to keep the wires together. This is something I found at http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/ExpandableSleeving.php. I bought the 3/8" size that expands from 3/16" to 5/8". I used shrink sleeve to keep the ends from fraying. This is the first time I use it so I'll have to see how durable it is.
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Tom
I'm following your thread here, I like to see how others do things. Always looking for new ideals. I noticed you did'nt use a main power cut off switch is there a reason other than you just didn't want to.
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I did use one but didn't want to post where it was located in the car. I bought it with the wiring kit and put it in line with the positive side of the battery.
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I understand, have you seen the latching solenoid made by Cole Hersee part#24200 ?
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Just googled it. That's the first time I've seen one. Is that what you plan to use?
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Yes it is, with a simple push of a momentary switch I will be able to kill the power from the battery, will just have to hide a small switch somewhere.
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Tom, did you make that gorgeous battery hold down strap? What a beauty!
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Thanks, I modeled it in 3D CAD and my friend used the model to create his tool paths and cut it. Once he cuts my dash panel, hopefully this week, I can install my gauges and continue this thread.
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Now that I finished the black walnut dash panel it’s time to wire the dash. I chose Auto Meter gauges, the electric speedometer, electric tachometer and the quad gauge. The Ron Francis wire kit bag “D” had three different harnesses with plugs and all wires were marked. The first was a 3 prong for the left and right directionals and the high beam indicator. The second was a 4 prong for the water temperature, oil pressure, gas gauge and the tachometer. The third was an 8 prong it had positive and negative leads for the gauges, dash light feeds and two wires for the electric speedometer. I followed the instructions that came with the gauges and got the dash wired. Picture 4 may look a little messy but once I mount the dash I'll get some ty-raps and tuck everything away. Now I’ll need to wire the other end of the three harnesses and plug them in.
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Here is a picture of the dash and the way I attached the directional and high beam indicator lights.
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Toam that's some real nice work and the dash looks great especially with the guages installed. You're one to watch....John
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Oh my, oh my, oh my...isn't that just gorgeous! Beautiful job there Tom.
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Today I finished Bag E which connects the plug from the Ididit column (the column has a GM plug on it) to the rest of the harness. I made 3 connections to the fuse block and the remaining wires went to the front and rear turn signals and one to the brake light switch. There were three wires left from the dash that had to be spliced into these. They were the left and right turn signal indicators and the high beam indicator.
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The plug that came on the column was wider than needed and had some empty slots so I trimmed it.
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Next was Bag F, the headlight switch. Part of it was hooking up the plug to the floor mounted dimmer switch. Of the three wires from there, one went to the panel and the other two went to the head lights. From the head light switch wires went out front to the parking lights and out back to the tail lights. Since I haven't mounted the head lights or tail lights yet I'll make these connections later. The head light wires went down through a rubber grommet in the floor along the drivers side frame rail towards the grill. The tail light wires will stay in the interior of the car under the carpet and exit through rubber grommets at the rear of the car.
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I wired the 700R4 Transmission to the switch on the dash. I picked up a normally open switch and Omron #21911C relay. I used the attached schematic to wire everything so driving around town and back roads the converter will not lock. Then if I go on the highway and pull the switch, the converter can lock and will release when I touch the brake pedal.
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I wired the 700R4 Transmission to the switch on the dash. I picked up a normally open switch and Omron #21911C relay. I used the attached schematic to wire everything so driving around town and back roads the converter will not lock. Then if I go on the highway and pull the switch, the converter can lock and will release when I touch the brake pedal.
I think I need to do this on my old Lumina van. The wiring is currently disconnected, but if you hook it up the engine will stall when you come to a halt. The switch would allow me to fix that annoying little problem and most likely give me better highway mileage as well.
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Finally got the rear section of the floor in so I could run my wires out to the tail lights. I ran them along the floor and then drilled a couple of holes in the rear part of the body. I used rubber grommets anywhere the wires ran through sheet metal. I crimped male and female connectors to connect the wires at the tail light so if I need to remove them it'll be easy. Once I get the head lights and turn signals wired up front I'll test them.
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Tom. all O have to say is you do nice work...reeeeaaaaal nice!
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To finish up the lighting part of the wiring I ran the wires for the headlights and taillights. As with all the other parts of the kit the wires were well marked. The directionals and the parking lights each had their own wires for left and right and were connected to each side. The headlights had one low beam and one high beam wire which I had to splice into to split it so I could connect to each light. I soldered the connections and them used shrink sleeving to seal them. I use connectors I could unplug if I want to remove the headlights for any reason.
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The directionals and parking lights are in the headlight assembly and light up well. The halogen bulbs light up good but we’ll see how they work when I get the car outside at night.
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Very cool. Now is about the time I sit in the garage with the door down and the lights out just to enjoy the dash and headlights for awhile...John
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The inside of your rear fender area is very close to a 1934-1935 standard design.
What I noticed and have a question about, the factory brace that runs across the underneath of the fender from the skirt area, to the inside close to body. There is a bunch of spot welds that have been drilled out. Have you shortened the factory brace to where it appears in this picture.
You may not know they exist, but there actually is a stamped brace that goes in those 2 holes on the frame , just visable in your picture, and it connects the gas tank cover and the fender together. Its called a gas tank cover/fender support bracket.
Just thought you would like to know, as I only found out the parts existed a couple of years ago.
mike lynch.... 8)
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The inside of your rear fender area is very close to a 1934-1935 standard design.
What I noticed and have a question about, the factory brace that runs across the underneath of the fender from the skirt area, to the inside close to body. There is a bunch of spot welds that have been drilled out. Have you shortened the factory brace to where it appears in this picture.
You may not know they exist, but there actually is a stamped brace that goes in those 2 holes on the frame , just visable in your picture, and it connects the gas tank cover and the fender together. Its called a gas tank cover/fender support bracket.
Just thought you would like to know, as I only found out the parts existed a couple of years ago.
mike lynch.... 8)
Mike,
Good eye, this brace is on the passenger side and was damaged so I did shorten it. I still have to attach the fender to the gas tank apron some how as the bottom of the fender vibrates too much. Are the braces you talk about reproduced or should I be looking for an original?
Tom
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Actually I did reproduce 50 of the 1934-1935 standard series braces. Had them cut out with a flow jet cutter and then used a brake to bend them for left and right.
I know 34 master is much different. I think I had a picture of the 33 master one but no idea where it went too. I was trying to find the listing for the part numbers in my 1940 parts book, but I cannot figure out what Chevrolet actually listed them as.
I will take a few pictures of the ones I produced and post the picture on here.
These are the pictures of the 1934-1935 chev standard series rear fender/gas tank cover support bracket that I had made. Center to center on the 1/4" bolt holes in frame and bracket is 1 1/4"
I have looked everywhere for the 1933-1934 master pair I have, they seem to be out visiting somewhere, despite repeated searches of their last known location. The shape on the 33-34 type was much different than this, kinda like a half circle
mike
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Once your gas tank cover is mounted using the 3 bolts on each of the sides, the cover is slotted, and the rear fenders bolted to it, that will stiffen it up. The brace attaches at the top bolt where the slot is.
Once you have all that fitted properly, check the bumper bolts chassis mount spacing too the gas tank cover. The cover should fit snuggly against them, if there is any slop , make spacers to take up the gap underneath , otherwise you will crush the area where it the bumper bracket is pulled against the chassis mount.
I would mount the gas tank cover panel with 4 bolts ( use button head allen heads ) that hold the gas tank cover too the frame crossmember, loosely . If you tighten these you will distort the cover panel unless its a perfect no gap fit .
I never liked the look of a spare tire mounted back there , personally.
If you could find a used one, I would look for the right rear inside fender brace.
mike lynch 8)