[EDNY]

Have the 33 Master fenders I recently picked all welded and banged out. Will do the final hammer/dolly work once mounted.

Any suggestions for restoring the reveal lines along the fenders edge other than hammer/dolly?

[Chemong55]

I have the same issue,seems the edge is rolled over a rod and of course when they hit or scraped something flattened out the edge.Hopefully there are some solutions out there other then cutting out the affected area and replacing it as was suggested to me by one person.

[FATnLOW]

Usually after I  beat and  dolly, hammer, items that I work on   and have low spots or  hard  spots to repair  I use  All-Metal Filler..  Body filler  with Aluminum  flakes...works for me ,,,, Left fender   arrow  was  flatter than right fender   The 4th photo is  fender repair  from a  patch panel that  Tom sent me

[madmike3435]

old school was to hammer and dolly the repair area as much as possible , shrinking stretched areas and then use lead filler, which is still available from eastwood in a kit.

in the 70's body man in a can BONDO FILLER took over and kits its in 95% of repairs.

problem with bondo it doesn't stick to the metal and become part of it like lead does.  Steel and lead suffer the weather together, heating and contracting.........plastic filler doesn't do that and is most likely to crack over time.

There is a lot of videos on you tube on how to lead and also from eastwood.

mike             

[EDNY]

Ironic is that when I was in vocational high school we did lead body work, oxy/acet welding and brazing along with lacquer paint. We did use plastic (ie bondo) but the repaired surface had to be at a point where the plastic could not exceed 1/8" thickness.

Yep..even rebuilt diaphragm fuel pumps, starters, alternators, carburetors - used dwell meters to adjust the points

[sixball]

Yeah, actually repair instead of replace. Kind of like a lot of the Fords you see that are assembled from kits.