Rusty Bowtie
General Category => General Discussion - Intros => Topic started by: munch on January 03, 2017, 11:08:14 AM
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I have had a problem where I have noticed a coolant leak at the front passenger side of the intake manifold. Did not seem too bad, but the car has been sitting up since May as I have been doing an EFI, 4 link with coil overs, etc. I cranked it this weekend and noticed white smoke from the exhaust on the passenger side, then a high pitched noise almost like a blower. I shut it down after a second try and found coolant in the oil. I suspect a failed intake gasket, but what is the noise?
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That sucks. I hope it wll turn out OK. hopefully it's a tired alternator,
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Munch it sure sounds like an intake gasket failer. As for the noise, I have dropped a tool I forgot about and it was rubbing on a pulley. It may be as simple as leaving a vac line unhooked/uncapped. Possibly coolant on belt(s). I wouldn't think you could knock out a lower end bearing that fast from coolant in the oil. Make sure you change the oil quick before firing back up as anti-freeze is bad for bearings. Good luck!
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Munch it sure sounds like an intake gasket failer. As for the noise, I have dropped a tool I forgot about and it was rubbing on a pulley. It may be as simple as leaving a vac line unhooked/uncapped. Possibly coolant on belt(s).
Good point about the belts.
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I hope you are right guys, I don't think I have the knowledge for anything deeper. I did drain the oil and water, and will start on the manifold gasket replacement Saturday. I must admit the noise concerns me.
Oh well, this hobby is not for the faint of heart...
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Just thinking out loud, but here is what was done while it was on the rack all those months.
New in tank Phantom fuel pump.
New braided fuel line and return.
Fitech EFI setup.
The first time I tried to start the car it would not start. The tech at Fitech helped me clear a fault and then after a few tries it started. But because the back of the car was open above the rear end because I raised the coil over mounting bar, the noise and white smoke overwhelmed me and I shut it down.
After building a cover over the raises coil over mount to damped the sound I tried it again. This time I got smoke from the engine compartment where I had forgot about spilling oil on the head and it made me shut it down.
After realizing what it was, I cranked it a third time and it shortly began the noise. I tried a fourth time, got the noise and shut it down.
Any ideas that the noise could be created by some of the other work?
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Munch, just throwing out some ideas here. A small leak on intake gasket with the engine setting for quite a time would produce the white smoke. Driving it regularly it burns out and you don't really notice it, no biggie. With a tried and true motor, there shouldn't be any serious problems just changing what you did.
On the noise we might get a better idea if you could give a better discription such as how loud, pitch low/high, a whine, whistle or buzz. You might need a helper once the intake gasket is replaced to help locate the area of the noise. A new fuel pump can make a new noise that you may not be use to also. Last thought, did you make sure the base plate gasket matched both intake and throttle body?
That's all I have, hopefully this might give someone else more ideas.
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Munch..did you replace any pulleys??? Water pump or crank pulleys?
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Munch..did you replace any pulleys??? Water pump or crank pulleys?
No sir.
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Munch, just throwing out some ideas here. A small leak on intake gasket with the engine setting for quite a time would produce the white smoke. Driving it regularly it burns out and you don't really notice it, no biggie. With a tried and true motor, there shouldn't be any serious problems just changing what you did.
On the noise we might get a better idea if you could give a better discription such as how loud, pitch low/high, a whine, whistle or buzz. You might need a helper once the intake gasket is replaced to help locate the area of the noise. A new fuel pump can make a new noise that you may not be use to also. Last thought, did you make sure the base plate gasket matched both intake and throttle body?
That's all I have, hopefully this might give someone else more ideas.
The Fitech EFI came with two base plate gaskets and I think I used the right one. The following is from the instructions:
The Fitech Go EFI System will bolt directly to any 4-BBL
intake manifold. To fit on a spread bore 4-BBL manifold
will require an inexpensive adapater plate to avoid leaks.
Note that the FiTech throttle body will bolt directly to a
spread bore 4-BBL manifold but may leak without the
adapter plate. Suitable adapter plates are available from
several suppliers such as Summit Racing (SUM-G1420).
It did leak a little on the passenger sided but I tighten it down and it appeared to stop.
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Water in the oil is a concern, more of a hassle than creating a severe problem. Thinking about this a little more, I helped a buddy of mine put an Atomic EFI on his car. When we started it for the first time it had a high pitch sound, and it was the butterfly's needed to be adjusted. It sounded like what your explaining it was a strange sound we also shut the engine down and checked everything again I believe this is what your hearing just adjust the throttle plates. Hope this helps.
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Water in the oil is a concern, more of a hassle than creating a severe problem. Thinking about this a little more, I helped a buddy of mine put an Atomic EFI on his car. When we started it for the first time it had a high pitch sound, and it was the A/F ratio needed adjusted, as he made the adjustments you could hear the sound change. It sounded like a jet engine, I think this is what your hearing.
I was just in the shop looking at the Fitech unit and there is a crack in the body which run down into one of the four ports. I will send a pic when I can.
I haven't dropped the unit, but I don't know if they will believe that. Can't afford another one right now.
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If they don't want to help you be sure to tell them your friends on multiple websites are following your installation of their product and are interested in the quality of their customer support. :)
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Water in the oil is a concern, more of a hassle than creating a severe problem. Thinking about this a little more, I helped a buddy of mine put an Atomic EFI on his car. When we started it for the first time it had a high pitch sound, and it was the A/F ratio needed adjusted, as he made the adjustments you could hear the sound change. It sounded like a jet engine, I think this is what your hearing.
I was just in the shop looking at the Fitech unit and there is a crack in the body which run down into one of the four ports. I will send a pic when I can.
I haven't dropped the unit, but I don't know if they will believe that. Can't afford another one right now.
If you had dropped the unit , it would clearly show where on the unit that the blow occurred.
Question is why did the unit crack .Get your magnifying glass out and do a thorough inspection to see if you can determine the reason why.
makes sense , doesn't it , before you try sending the unit back . ???
mike
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If they don't want to help you be sure to tell them your friends on multiple websites are following your installation of their product and are interested in the quality of their customer support. :)
I know I'm interested in your installation, I'm considering putting EFI on my 32
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Also interested your problem and the outcome concerning the EFI System and the final resolution....hope you can get it resolved to your satisfaction
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Water in the oil is a concern, more of a hassle than creating a severe problem. Thinking about this a little more, I helped a buddy of mine put an Atomic EFI on his car. When we started it for the first time it had a high pitch sound, and it was the A/F ratio needed adjusted, as he made the adjustments you could hear the sound change. It sounded like a jet engine, I think this is what your hearing.
I was just in the shop looking at the Fitech unit and there is a crack in the body which run down into one of the four ports. I will send a pic when I can.
I haven't dropped the unit, but I don't know if they will believe that. Can't afford another one right now.
If you had dropped the unit , it would clearly show where on the unit that the blow occurred.
Question is why did the unit crack .Get your magnifying glass out and do a thorough inspection to see if you can determine the reason why.
makes sense , doesn't it , before you try sending the unit back . ???
mike
I looked it over closely and there is no sign of any other damage, only the crack. I will see what they say.
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Update... I spoke with the FiTech technician yesterday who at first sounded skeptical but after seeing the pictures issued an RMA and said they would definitely get it sorted quickly for me as soon as they received it.
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Great news....keep us informed on the resolution.....
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That's good to hear! Keep us updated.
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Munch I'm glad they may stand behind it. That sure could be your noise. Good luck, hope they make it right with you!
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Forgot I promised a picture
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Wow, that's a good one! Glad they stood behind it.
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munch...do you feel that the crack was responsible for the noise?
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Sure sounds like they are going to replace the unit for you.
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munch...do you feel that the crack was responsible for the noise?
Don't know, as it is my first experience with EFI. When it first cranked it did not make the high pitched whine, it just would not idle down. RPMs moved around between 1100 to 13 and change and back. As I remember I cranked it twice like that and shut it down. The third time I cranked it I got the same thing, but then the noise started.
It is like it was a hair line crack that got bigger. Does that make sense? Do you think a crack like that would make the high pitched whine?
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Im sure that could cause some funky issues , definitely could explain the high fluctuating idle and a high pitch whistle . First things first I would not want a crack in any part of my FUEL system , especially on a car as beautiful as yours.
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Munch if that crack doesn't go down thru the base plate, I doubt it's your noise. JMO
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I suspect the noise came from the IAC (idle air control) valve being open. The engine management system needs to adjust air flow into the throttle body and will once it gets into closed loop. The new IAC was probably wide open sucking in air like crazy until the ECM adjusts it.
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Hey Munch any updates?
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I was told Wednesday that the unit would be repaired and ship out at the end of the day. I have the manifold gasket replaced and all back together just waiting. I will definitely let you know.
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How did you make out?
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Sorry I meant to take pics and update everyone but as usual I got side tracked. Manifold gasket installed, FiTech unit returned , installed and plumed. Fired right off. I was so relieved. No leaks. Before I could let it run and setup I had to change oil a couple of times to get rid of the water. I also had to replace a leaky brake line and have not bled the system as yet.
I know I am moving slow, but hope to have something good to report soon...
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Good to know.
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Glad to hear it's going better! Let us know how it goes.
Tom
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Glad to hear everything went well for you, would like to know how easy your Fitech was to set up