Yikes, moose. Good subject, but really complicated. I went to a class held by the School of Automotive Machining while I was at PRI a few years ago and I was really blown away. It kind of boils down to the new high strength blocks and older blocks, like you are asking about. Most of the class revolved around new engines like Gm's LS series,mFird's mod motors and Chrysler's Heminline. They all have one thing in common. The cylinder material is so hard that the bore sizing has to perfect because nothing breaks in. The rings have to be round, as do the bores, most have a service limit of .0002" cylinder taper and out of round, and the finish has to be done with very expensive diamond hones. Older blocks are still going to use (typically) moly filled and cast rings for top and second. There are options, such as gapless, but rings are going to break in with the cylinders, just as always. Because of all of the manufacturers you should do a bunch of research before just buying a ring set, but the important thing is to make sure that whatever you decide to use the machine shop you pick has the right honing stones to get the rings to work. If you are having the engine dyno'd the dyno shop should have a blow by meter to guarantee the rings are working. If the shop doesn't have a blow by meter I would be concerned. The blow by meter is absolute proof that the engine shop is doing things correctly.
A lot depends on what piston material you are using, also. If you think you are going to run a power adder such as nitrous, turbo or supercgarger(s) then you want to stay away from Hypereutechtic pistons and stay with 2618 forged pistons, and file fig ring end gaps accordingly. Engines with power adder engine rings need a little more ring end gap to keep the ends from touching due to expansion under additional heat, which can break rings or remove the tops of pistons in some cases.