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1930 Buick V12 build

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Essex_29:
I'm part way into a hot rod build, and thought I'd share some of what I'm working with. I don't know how to cathegorize my build, it's part hot rod, part rat rod, mainly I focus on having fun.
Some background:
In the fall of 2019 I bought the Marquette by Buick and got it home. Before this I had bought a junkyard V12 from an older BMW 750. I chose a Buick because they had large eight cylinder engines in 1931. The Buick was sold to me as a 1931 Buick, and when I arrived at home, I was very sad to notice that I had indeed not bought a 1931 Buick, but rather a 1930 Marquette. The difference may be a problem in the future when it's time to get it MOT tested and street legal. I decided to roll with it, and now am used to caling it "the Buick". I do like the proportions and looks of the car in any case, and it's a two door sedan, which is exactly what I wanted.
An abundance of chores took me to December 2019 before getting the old lady rolled into the garage, the first picture is from that day.
Second pic is a photoshopped pic from that time showing what I'm aiming for: A fully fendered  hot rod with wideish radials and it's supposed to be a pretty practical driver.

Essex_29:
The V12 engine in its original guise is not a good looking one, seen from a hot rodder's perspective. Most of what could be removed was, and I was left with a narrow high engine. And it was going to be carbureted.

The frame here bolted to the floor, making like a make shift frame jig.

The intake

To make the intake I needed some flanges done.
As I panned to get them laser cut, I needed drawings, and downloaded free cad, watched some tutorials and got busy drawing parts.
Of course it took me a couple weeks to learn by doing, and here's a look at what I got done:

1. Upper intake flange ( with a bunch of 2" exhaust flanges to save material).
2. Top intake flange with holes for two four barrel carbs ( bolts to the #1 flange)
3. Drawing for the number 2 part
4. Four barrel carb flanges. These will be spaced up about an inch off the top intake.
5. 2" exhaust flange
6. 2-1/2" exhaust flange.
7. Intake to cylinder head flange.

A few days after sending the drawings to the laser cutting company, I got a text telling me to come get my cut parts.
I was pretty excited to see the parts that I had drawn.

Just a matter of filling in the blanks spaces between the flanges with sheet metal and tubing to make an intake now.

This is modern times already. Work started on the intake July 15, so it's less than a month ago.

Essex_29:
I started working in the intake runners a couple days ago, cutting sort pieces with a supposed 13 degree angle, then a 37 degree angle of a pipe bend. Of course doing this cutting free hand with a simple jig, the angles were more or less off, all of them.



A. I ended up cutting and adjusting, then tacking a piece and a bend. 6 pieces were an average length, the six others were off, either shorter or longer, and got dedicaed third parts to compensate.

B. Then they were welded to make 12 equal length runners. 36 pieces of tubing, bad engineeering, I should have them from two, instead of three pieces, but there you go.

C. All 24 welds were ground off, and the insides were smoothed with a small grinder with a rotating file.



I had to check for clearance for the intake bolts under the plenum floor. This will be enough, but the intake will be very tall.

Essex_29:
I took the intake flanges off the engine to tack the intake runners to the flanges.



The intake flanges are tacked together with sheet metal pieces to keep their relative angle when off the engine.

When eight runners were tacked to the intake flanges, the whole thing was bolted back to the engine. Simple intake by the way, no water and no exhaust in it.
After some measuring and planning, a plywood template was cut with a hole saw to cut holes for the intake runners in the plenum floor piece with the plasma.



The plenum is designed short, so the outermost runners will turn into the ends of the plenum by using tube bends cut to fit to the plenum end pieces. Form over function perhaps, but I think it will work decently too.
The holes in the plenum floor will be ground to fit loosely around the runnes, and the conjunctions will be ground round and smooth to promote air flow over the awkward angles.
Hoping to be able to weld this, without warping the flanges too much.

I recently got an Edelbrock 500cfm 1404 in the mail so now I just have to find another one.

Turned out the flanges warped a bit. Heating them from the back side with the tig got them straightened out nicely.

Rattiac:
Cool build.  👍
Keep us posted.  I would love to be able to cut my own parts. 😎

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