Rusty Bowtie
General Category => Early Chevy/GM Discussion => Topic started by: FATnLOW on January 01, 2014, 09:36:24 AM
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Looking for the rear sill wood, that goes between the frame and bolts to the body( Back Panel) on a 33 2 dr master sedan. Fisher Body service manual for a 1934 refers this as (C) Rear End Sill ... Need it for a pattern to fab.one out of steel, let me know if there is one out there that I can purchase either on this forum or from some one else.. Thanks
Looks like no one has one :( ...I would settle for part of one to get thickness and shapes.......any thing out there? :)
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approximately what is the thickness of this sill ????
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fatnlow
Here's a picture that shows a part of it....Maybe you can get some sort of an idea of what might work for you
Moose
(http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq7/themoose524/Rusty%20Bowtie/1_zps05790477.jpg)
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approximately what is the thickness of this sill ????
1-1/2 " . When I did mine in steel and also cut up a mudflap for the rubber bushing underneath.
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Looking for the rear sill wood, that goes between the frame and bolts to the body( Back Panel) on a 33 2 dr master sedan. Fisher Body service manual for a 1934 refers this as (C) Rear End Sill ... Need it for a pattern to fab.one out of steel, let me know if there is one out there that I can purchase either on this forum or from some one else.. Thanks
Looks like no one has one :( ...I would settle for part of one to get thickness and shapes.......any thing out there? :)
Have you had any luck yet? If not, I'm pretty sure the '33 Master is the same as a '34 Standard. It looks to me like the '34 and '35 Standards are the same???? If so, I can give you pics and all the measurements you need from my '35. Even make you up a heavy paper template if you like.
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Cocobolo.....Yes send photos and ant measurements you have....Thanks FATnLOW
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OK, will do. I just have to pull the rear seat out so we can see the wood. Shouldn't take too long.
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OK, here we go. Now, I'm hardly the greatest on a computer, so I'm going to explain what I've done and hopefully this will help you.
First I took a couple of pictures outside the rear window, one for the shape so you can have a go at seeing if it matches yours and next I took a pic of the distance across, and I put the tape against the moulding on the other side, not against the rubber seal. I think yours should be the same.
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Inside the car, this is a shot of the general seat support wood.
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Next, I held the tape on the upper piece of wood that supports the seat. This is attached to piece of wood that you are looking for, so once I get this off we'll get you those dimensions. But first, I think this piece gives an easy way to get the curve right.
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33 master , 34 master, and 35 standard are the same size body wise
Although several difference in the attaching sheet metal.( front fenders, rear fenders , running boards, grille shells, hoods) But bodies are the same size.
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33 master , 34 master, and 35 standard are the same size body wise
Although several difference in the attaching sheet metal.( front fenders, rear fenders , running boards, grille shells, hoods) But bodies are the same size.
That's what I kinda thought, but wasn't 100% sure. Many thanks for confirming that. :)
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Now what we have here is a series of measurements showing the height of that wide board at the top of the seat support. I have made a pencil mark every 6" (which I think will show in the pics) so starting at zero, you will have measurements at 0", 6", 12", 18", 24" and 30". I hope these post in order otherwise it will be confusing. Using the driver's side as the starting point. Restricted to 4 pics per post, next one coming right up.
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This one at 30" over....
My last pic at the pass side end is lousy, so I'll shoot another one.
You can get the precise curve by using a batten held against a series of nails tacked into a board using those dimensions. Since the bottom of that piece of wood is straight, the curve should be extremely close. However, I will confirm that when I get all that taken apart and held up against the window.
All you do is to take a board with a straight edge on one side (piece of plywood is ideal). Mark your first nail at the beginning at the height shown - I read that as 3 7/32" - move over 6" and repeat etc. A hair over 3 7/16" at 6", 3 19/32" at 12", 3 21/32" at 18", 3 19/32" at 24", and 3 and a hair under 7/16" at the 30" mark. The passenger side end appears to be a bit smaller than the drivers end, but that could be due to any number of factors. I think I would use the same number, especially working in metal.
Please note that the top piece of wood we are speaking of extends behind those "ears" on both sides by about another 2", see pic.
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I see I very cleverly managed to omit the starting point...it is extremely close to 3 1/4". I did say 3 7/32" in the earlier post, but it's closer to 3 1/4...just a hair under.
FWIW this piece of wood is slightly over 3/4" thick.
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cocobolo....Thanks for the photos and measurements, appreciate the effort you put forth in posting all the good information, gives me a lot information and a direction to go again Thanks a bunch...FATnLOW
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cocobolo....Thanks for the photos and measurements, appreciate the effort you put forth in posting all the good information, gives me a lot information and a direction to go again Thanks a bunch...FATnLOW
More to come, I have the proper dimensions you need now for the main crosspiece right below the window...coming right up.
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Had I been bright enough to read the several manuals that I have downloaded and actually printed...I could have saved myself some time...but nooooo
Here's a pic of where the vertical seat support wood attaches. So naturally I unscrewed it. Next pic is of the rivets and I had no idea why Chevy needed rivets there, so out they came.
I should have known that Chevy had a good reason, and sure as heck it was to hold on the seat latches. Didn't need to take them off after all! When all else fails...
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So finally, we come to what you really need!!! :)
Showing this so you can see what they did at the corner of the window.
Then a purely gratuitous pic, followed by a decent overall shot of all the wood in the back.
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This is the dimension right across the wood below the window. Thought I had better show where the tape was hooked on as well.
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You'll note that Chevy actually stuck two pieces of wood together below the window. So if you look carefully at the pics, you will see that the lower piece is only about 1 5/16" high. I couldn't get a pic of the measurement of the thickness of that piece, but it is also about 1 5/16"...so I'm guessing that they just used some square stock for that part. At least that makes sense to me.
Now, as for the curve in the bottom of the window, that seat wood that I removed is an exact fit when pushed up against the window.
Now my metal fabbing skills are nowhere near what yours must be, but if this will help I have a suggestion on what you might do. If you were to find some metal tubing that was (or close to) 1 5/16" square, you could add a piece of wood on top of the tubing and shape that. For me anyway, that would be easier than trying to shape metal. But like I say, I'm the farthest thing from a metal worker.
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It seems to me that I have seen the metal that goes below the window extended right around to the doors, so here's a bit on the dimensions there.
The wood below the window is finger jointed to the next piece, which goes to the middle of the curve in the body and then another finger joint connects it to the window jamb piece.
The wood where it joins the window section starts out at 1 1/2" wide and expands to 2", then the next piece goes from 2" to about 2 1/4"...but I seem to have a chunk missing from the back side of both my corner pieces so I'm not dead certain about that last number. I think you could get that right off your body.
If you need anything else, just ask.
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Cocobolo.....would you do a guy in need of a favor??...need photo of this shot down to the floor please
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Certainly will do that for you. If you need any specific measurements, ask away. This will just take a very few minutes.
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Hope this helps. My rear seat wood is out, so if you need measurements from that I can get them for you.