[trbomax]

  The motor that I want to put in the '28 will be comming out of my BGF drag boat that I dont run anymore and likely never will. The blower manifold is an older Cragar that does not have a thermostat houseing. This is what we want in the boat since it uses a rubber impeller waterpump that is plumbed with 1" braided teflon lines,into the front of the block (same as a car) and then out of the manifold, and then overboard. Obviously I cant use a constant loss cooling system in the car,but I cant use an automotive waterpump either because the magnesium nose on the Moonyham 6-71 is the short type,there is no room for a waterpump. I can use an electric waterpump , OR, I can use the marine pump,which is almost the same thingbut in some respects better because it does not run at a constant speed,rather its speed varies with engine speed,it is driven off of the camshaft on the front cover,just like an injection pump.The bad news is that it is a positive displacement pump,not a centrifugal type,sothere is no provision to control pressure when it flows more than the system will.The pressure just builds.At 7000 rpm,this will be about 70 psi.It will blow head and intake gaskets where they seal water passages. In a drag boat I controlled this with an adjustable pressure regulator from a hot water tank,thats right a TPI valve and set it at 30 psi. The bypass water is plumbed forward thru the V-Drive water jackets and then overboard. Now the "situation". I can set the TPI down as low as 10psi,but where do I run the bypassed coolant?If I run it back to the suction side I will create a loop and coolant wont ever circulate thru the rad,or will it? The disharge hose off the intake manifold will go to the top tank of the rad,the suction side of the pump will be plumbed to the lower rad tank. If the bypass coolant goes to the top tank ,it will mix with the hot discharge coolant and circulate down to suction. So the engineering delima of the day is "where to run the bypass to???" And of course, Why?

There is another option.I could machine up some aluminum spacers to mount an aluminum L-88 corvette waterpump (I have a couple NIB) away from the motor far enough that the v-belt would miss the blower belt. I could drive it with the v-belt pulley that would bolt to the crank blower drive pulley.I will have to make one of these anyway to drive the alternator.With this setup I would need some kind of remote thermostat houseing between the blower manifold water dishcarge and the rad top tank. I will probably need this with the marine pump too though and someone must make them.

  Sorry,no pics of this set up as the motor is still in the boat and the boat is back in toledo.

[EDNY]

I got lost about halfway through   For a street car water pressure is used to increase the boiling point of water, water boils at 212 degrees (F), for each pound of pressure the boiling point increases one degree.  Water in a radiator with a 15lb cap would then begin boiling at 227 degrees.

Adapting the L88 or another water pump might be the best option and install an in-line thermostat?

Ed

[themoose]

I agree with Ed that it would seem that the best solution would be to install or adapt an automotive style  pump. I suppose that if you set the bypass pressure to something just below the rating of the cap that it would work as you described but the more complicated you make a system the greater likelihood of problems and failures.

Moose

[trbomax]

 I did find an old pic of the whole boat that shows the rear of the motor. Frm this it doesnt look like a l-88 pump would miss the blower drive belt,and it looks like the belt tensioner uses the w/p holes as well. You have to take into account the fact that this particular motor I built in 1979 and quit running around 1983.Ive only even looked at it a few times since so I'm not at all familiar with what I did.
 I found a real nice remote thermostat houseing  builder on line though,it is plumbed into the upper discharge hose (s).

[EDNY]

Would any of these items work:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BDS-BLOWER-SUPERCHARGER-THERMOSTAT-HOUSING-FOR-OLDER-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-ON-BBC-SBC-/190783258583?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6b917fd7&vxp=mtr#ht_120wt_601

http://www.mooneyham-blowers.com/Pages/Products.aspx

http://www.competitionproducts.com/Remote-Electric-Water-Pumps/products/1325/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-PRP-Billet-50GPM-Remote-Mounted-Electric-Water-Pump-/120343960946#ht_2445wt_788

[trbomax]

 The belt tensioner on the Mooneyham site is what I have.It attaches useing the waterpump bolts on the front of the block. Electric waterpumps scare me!It just seems that flow should be increased with motor speed. There has to be a way to do this that is bomb proof,I just havent seen it yet! But I am always open to suggestions.