[ghost28]

Thanks guys. I did put a 1/2 inch block on top of the transverse spring, but it didn't raise up the front at all, so it looks like a set of smaller tread tires up front are gonna be needed to clear the lip of the fender. I moved the radiator shell to a  lower and back position, I liked better which meant I had to trim the front hood edges, an easy job since there were no folded metal edges to deal with.

[madmike3434]

ghost that's one of the problems with pre 1930 cars, the wheels and tires used were so tall its hard to drop-em and get the tire fender right.  Might have to go 75 series tires,  less fat tread width.

Other alternative is if you have reversed the spring eyes on main spring is to have them un-reversed, usually good for 1 1/2 to 2"

give it some thought.  Oh ya , car is looking dynamite with hood mocked up.

mike   

[vette59jdwl]

Ghost it is looking awsome  what is your favourite colour  or are you going to leave it silver   vette59jdwl

[vette59jdwl]

Ghost28 did you put shocks in the front on each side or not if not why not I was going over your early pictures and right where you placed the sway bar on the front would be a great place to mount a pair of shocks. In my case with the vette i wanted to pull the front end up fast and keep her up as long as possible so i went with a sett 90/10's.The shocks ride a little stiff at first but then you get use to them.Thought this might lift your front end a tad   vette59jdwl

[madmike3434]

Ghost it is looking awsome  what is your favourite colour  or are you going to leave it silver   vette59jdwl

Believe Ghosts car is actually 2 tone silver and grey.  Very difficult to see in pictures.

mike

[ghost28]

 I haven't mounted any shocks yet but the sway bar mounting is not a bad idea, but I might try to find a good pair of knee action shocks for it. I did find some firestone blackwall tires through speedway that are about 100 bucks each. The tread width is about 4 1/2 inches  about 2 inches narrower than what is on there, and the tire height is the same as what I have now. Should solve the problem.

[madmike3434]

if YOU HAVE A STOCK BEAM AXLE OR A 40--54 CHEV 1/2 TON TRUCK BEAM YOU SHOULD LOOK INTO A SCHROEDER SWAY BAR AND ARMS.

NOT SURE IF YOU COULD USE 35 1/2" WIDE 7/8" SPLINED END .  OR WHETHER YOU WOULD NEED A CUSTOM WIDTH.  THEY DO SHOW UP ON EBAY ALONG WITH ARMS AND MOUNTING BRACKETS USUALLY THEY ARE USED FROM A DISBANDED NASCAR TEAM WHO COULD NOT GET A SPONSOR.

MY 35 CHEV COUPE WITH KUGEL IFS WITH 11/16 SWAY BAR AND REAR WITH SCHROEDER .850 SWAY BAR USED WITH JAG REAR REAR GOES AROUND CORNERS FLAT NO LEAN.  ALL PARTS BOUGHT OFF EBAY FOR ABOUT 1/4 OF NEW COST

SEE " SHAZZBOTT A 1935 CHEVROLET ROADSTER"  FILE IN THIS SAME SECTION AND ON PAGE 2 IT SHOWS THE BRACKETRY I MADE AND THE SWAY BAR FOR THE ROADSTER

MIKE         

[vette59jdwl]

 I think like you smaller tires on the front By the way did you keep the original hanger that went from frame rail to frame rail,That captured the spring.Yes the one pictured If so you could probably capture a 2 inch riser out of this and keep all your geometry the same as is  vette59jdwl

Ps How much of a riser or how many inches do you have to raise the front of the frame without altering anything else

[sammons]

Looking real good Ghost!

Yep, that front hit at 10:20am yesterday. Temps dropped from 53° to 42°in 30 mins. and the clouds rolled in. Supposed to get our first skiff of snow next tuesday.

[ghost28]

I think like you smaller tires on the front By the way did you keep the original hanger that went from frame rail to frame rail,That captured the spring.Yes the one pictured If so you could probably capture a 2 inch riser out of this and keep all your geometry the same as is  vette59jdwl

Ps How much of a riser or how many inches do you have to raise the front of the frame without altering anything else

I think the cross bar you are seeing is the original 40 ford sway bar that came with the axle, if so I haven't mounted it up yet. I made and have added a 5/8th inch block on top of the transverse spring set up that brought the frame up and away from the suspension the same 5/8th height and that amount is about all I can go with out changing geometry, but it still sits to low for the tires that are on it, keep in mind the tires don't rub, but I am sure they will when I go around a corner a little faster than I should or get someone in the car with me. Right now I think the best way is to change the front tires. It really shouldn't change the way the car sits or looks.

[ghost28]

In fitting the old girl with a new set of bifocals I learned a valuable lesson about paint, that is don't spray clearcoat over shiney paint and expect it to stick. DUH. The problem I had was putting tape on the windshield frame to set the glass, when the tape came off it stripped the clearcoat in chunks.  So now I have to carefully sand and recoat the frames. Thank God I have until spring to fix my screwups.

[sammons]

OUCH! Well that bites, at least it's not the body.

[vette59jdwl]

   OK First off  I think in the begining you said you had a dropped axle  this might be your problem how much would you gain if you went with a conventional axle.
   Next if you placed a set of heavy duty shocks outboard on both ends of the axles how much lean would this prevent,and would it cure your problem with leaning
   And thirdly ( NO )  What i meant was in the first picture i sent  behind the mock up where you had the axle under the car but not fastened you ,showed the original crossmember and then in a few later pics you should the lowered crossmember that was cut out to accepted the frame rails  Maybe just maybe this is the point where you went just a tad to low. that and using a dropped axle was just to much  what do you think.  If you havent thrown out the original crossmember you could go back and utilize this cut down but not as low as the crossmember that you have in there now  the one that captures the transverse spring. This will raise the frame in essence raising the body   vette59jdwl

[ghost28]

Thanks Vette.  There isn't any severe lean on corners,  I built it with this ride height in mind, and the tires aren't rubbing at this time. so  instead of rebuilding the front end to change the ride height, the new narrower tread design tires would be the easiest and cheapest way to keep the look I want.
 Thanks again...John

[ghost28]

I hope you guys don't get bored with me posting another video. This one is a little longer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xyz6BfN6U-k