Author Topic: 1926 buick roadster  (Read 171890 times)

ghost28

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #300 on: March 01, 2015, 09:09:11 PM »
Looks like the car in my garage.  Hope it gave you some inspiration ;D
I grab inspiration wherever, and your car picture helps ;D

chopper526

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #301 on: March 02, 2015, 10:02:24 AM »
Looks great, Ghost. On the street by summer?
Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

sammons

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #302 on: March 02, 2015, 11:14:04 AM »
Dang ghost, next time back on the chassis it's there to stay. No doubt you'll be driving this summer. ;D  Which reminds me, i'll still have to pull mine again to rebuild the chassis.  :-[

62131

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #303 on: March 02, 2015, 08:20:44 PM »
A friend came by today. I enlisted him to help take the top off and seat out and help me put them in storage. Then we stood the roadster body on it's nose again, this way I can caulk all the seams with body check and get it primed, painted, and undercoated. Most of the hard body work is finished to a point. When I set it back down on my rolling cart I can start the heavy primer and blocking process.
Standing it on it's nose is a great ideal, I was afraid to do that as I thought it might damage the cowl. I did the bottom of my car while it was off the frame and supported on 4x4 from a creeper on my back you make it look easy.

ghost28

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #304 on: March 03, 2015, 07:28:50 PM »
Thanks guys. Chopper, and sammons. I don't know about this summer, but I am still holding out hope. 62131 I was a little concerned about setting it on it's nose without the doors this time, but I put some bracing in that area and it didn't move a bit. It has a pretty tough reveal all around the firewall, and it didn't bend it last time.  :-\ hope hope. I did get the seams all filled and the first application of seal coat black sprayed on the bottom, but it's cold out side and I have to open the doors to let the stink out. I am gonna wait for it to warm up before any more painting.
« Last Edit: March 03, 2015, 07:31:28 PM by ghost28 »

ghost28

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #305 on: March 05, 2015, 07:17:39 PM »
I spent the afternoon building a bracket, that bolts to the bellhousing, so I can mount the slave cylinder from the 89 camaro. it turned out good and strong. Now I have to figure out how to bleed the system without a bleeder on it. Any ideas on this??????. Worse case scenario is I might have to buy a new slave cylinder with a bleeder on it.

sammons

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #306 on: March 05, 2015, 07:54:03 PM »
Ghost when I put the 5spd in my friend Lonnies '32 p.u, I bench blead the master , ran fliud in the line and slave (cracking the line a couple times) hooked it up and pumped it a few times, then held the peddle and cracked the line at the m/c.a couple times and it has been fine since. The air should go up to m/c.

ghost28

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #307 on: March 05, 2015, 07:57:52 PM »
Ghost when I put the 5spd in my friend Lonnies '32 p.u, I bench blead the master , ran fliud in the line and slave (cracking the line a couple times) hooked it up and pumped it a few times, then held the peddle and cracked the line at the m/c.a couple times and it has been fine since. The air should go up to m/c.
The line wont crack on this unit. It has a pin that has to be tapped out to release the line for either the slave or master for replacement. Kinda a sealed unit.

sammons

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #308 on: March 05, 2015, 08:14:27 PM »
Ghost,
I just went to youtube and punched in "bleeding a camaro clutch" and several came up.

28chevyguy

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #309 on: March 05, 2015, 08:23:03 PM »
I usually knock out the roll pin remove the slave completely,  then use rubber hose to hook the line to a can of brake fluid, make sure MC is full.  Then by hand i pump the pedal in AND out to push air into the can and pull fluid IN. .  Then I tip the slave upright and carefully fill it to the top with brake fluid.  Hold your thumb over it.  Then carefully and quickly reconnect the line back into the slave , reinstall the roll pin.   Then ,by hand I manually push the SLAVE rod all the way in to force air up into the MC reservoir. Its kinda tough, def need two hands but doing this pushes all the air up and out.   Then reconnect the slave to the trans bracket  .  Now I would manually pump the MC rod before hooking the pedal back up as well ,  garanteed full travel is what you need to bleed these systems. 

ghost28

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #310 on: March 06, 2015, 08:35:03 AM »
Ghost,
I just went to youtube and punched in "bleeding a camaro clutch" and several came up.
Thanks. I did look on line and most were telling me to replace the slave with a bleeder valve unit for simplicity.
28 Chevy. Your information sounds the best so far. I think I can get it done when the time comes.
Thanks guys. I still have a long way to go.  :'(
« Last Edit: March 06, 2015, 08:38:40 AM by ghost28 »

ghost28

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #311 on: March 06, 2015, 08:27:35 PM »
I spent the day building the 2 1/2 inch exhaust piping, and mufflers from the header collectors to the rear axle. I used the big pipe because I had it left over from a car I bought and it was like new. I am gonna reduce the pipe in size to go over the axle and out the back. It sure is a lot easier to do all this stuff with the body off.     Next it's on to the brake lines, and drive shaft.

sammons

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #312 on: March 07, 2015, 08:28:10 PM »
Ghost you will be up and running before you know it at this rate. Look'n good man!!

ghost28

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #313 on: March 14, 2015, 07:59:16 PM »
I got all the painting and undercaoting finished and dried on the buick, it is back on it's belly.

Today was so nice, I decided to smother the car with some k36 heavy build primer I had sitting around. I dumped three pots of this stuff on the buick body, and it is thick and a little hard to shoot from a small needle gun, but if fills scratches well.   I am gonna still use the Upol primer in the future as long as it will be compatable with ppg.

sammons

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #314 on: March 14, 2015, 08:22:23 PM »
It's got to feel good to have it all in one color, even if it's just primer. :)

 


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