Rusty Bowtie
General Category => Moose's Tech Corner => Topic started by: EDNY on September 13, 2015, 10:08:37 PM
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A walk through example of replacing Chevy wood with steel.
Thanks to Rattiac for finding it.
http://www.streetrodsnclassics.com/32-chevy-sedan.html
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Im glad you guys liked it. 8)
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Lets talk about tools to complete a project like this.
Id like to get a bandsaw to create the arches in square tubing but they are huge and cost alot . Ive thought about a Harbor freight verticle/horizontal but could it cut like a bigger horizontal (as in straight on both ends) OR maybe convert a wood unit with a metal blade if thats possible .
Anyway its a good place to start a disscusion, sharing ideas .
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Rattiac, you might cruise craigslist or similar site, local trade ad weekly, garage sales to find a bandsaw. You can change blade from wood to metal, but you may need to reduce rpm's. We have a couple big stand ups and they both are rpm adjustible by changing belt to diffrent pulley (internal down below). The tool I use the most for this is a metal chop saw, less expensive (specially a used one) and my little 3" hand held cut off wheel (air or electric). Then the bench grinder to fine tune or notch a bit. Last an adjustable angle square.
I also use a lot of cheap 1/2" conduit for making patterns for any tough cuts/bends.
Saves on costly mistakes to expensive steel tubing. :D
14" cut off saw $80- Air cut off wheel $50-60- angle sq $8
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I guess I could have put a metal cutting blade on my compound miter saw, but I just used my angle grinder with a cut-off wheel, the smaller air cut-off wheel and a combination square. Almost every cut I made had to be relatively square. For the few radius cuts I needed, most of them I pie-cut the tubing, bent it to shape and filled the cuts with the MIG welder. I don't believe it is really a tough job and I would recommend it to anyone who has little or no wood left. I am no welder or fabricator, so if I can do it, anyone can.
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Here are a few pics of what I had to work with and what I did. I thought I had better examples, but I can't find them.
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Replacing the wood in my roadster is my biggest worry of the build. It's something I have never done and I want to come out right. I'd even like to leave some that is solid like in the doors and deck lid.
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Sixball I* have a few ideas for you.If you would like to retain some or most of your wood in your roadster. Please drop me a line at vette59jfwl@yahoo.com and please drop me a pic of your car and please dont laugh when i send you a picture of mine lol lol vette59jdwl@yahoo.com
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One of the tools that i could not afford and had a great time building was a copier / duplicator Gust google it . I was also interested in building custom gun stocks so it served a few purposes.Someone on here a few years back showed how they build their main frame rails out of composite layers of plywood. Since i was in the process of taking my quarters off. I have decided to go with composite layers of plywood to do the rear supports also the door supports and the windshield supports. I have all the wood working tools and few welding tools or the experience. I purchased the drivers door wood from Don Beals on here and duplicated that door in reverse for a passengers door that i did not have. I had the skins. Now i have a copy of that as well as a copy of the main rails.I am working on the seat surround. and filling it in with buckets or a bench seat. If memory serves right i have heard than many were using the third seat from a dodge full size van. Please correct me if i am wrong.
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yup you got the standard of LOTS OF WOOD in your roadster framework.
The trunk lid wood is actually a rumble seat wood framework. Same as on my 35 roadster, except I am converting it from a rumble seat to a trunk lid.
mike
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Here's a few pictures of my subframe rails. I used a 2x4 as a template.
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I'll bore you with a few more.
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Here is a link to pictures of my '26 roadster body.
https://picasaweb.google.com/sixpics/26ChevyRoadster?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCMGrn5aTjqyueQ&feat=directlink (https://picasaweb.google.com/sixpics/26ChevyRoadster?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCMGrn5aTjqyueQ&feat=directlink)
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I got a hookup on a new HF Horizontal/Vertical bandsaw for dirt cheap ($20) . I'll give it a shot. Its cheap enuf i can modify it without hurting my wallet . Plus my boss has a huge H/V that he just found the lil table for vertical cuts , he said I can use if I buy a new blade.
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Sixball Your wood is 90 percent better than mine.The only thing that I would do and I am doing in the 32 roadster is putting in extra cross brace in the door.You will have no problem Just make sure that you assemble all the wood frame before you place all the metal on it then put cross braces in the body usually behind the doors just under the deck behind the seat and just below the trunk lid or rumble seat lid. In my car they used 3/8 inch rod with a turnbuckle in the middle and huge square nuts on the outside of the frame. I have a design pattern for the frame rails for the 32 roadster and many other parts for the 32 vette59jdwl@yahoo.com
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I think the way im gonna attack this is to start at the rear and work my way to the front. Doing the body frame first, then the door's.
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Rattiac You will have to take all the metal off of the wood framing and evaluate what has to go.For starters anyone and everyone will tell you you have to start with the body frame and work your way up cowl to body frame door post to cowl to body frame rear of door frame to body frame cross member and seat frame to body frame convertible boot to body frame rear quarter post to body frame kick up over rear to body frame and all the cross members to body frame.When you have the skeleton body frame done ,assemble the floor then ,assemble that to the body with the acquired body bolts.to frame and start to assemble the steel parts to the body.In my case the last parts to get attached were the doors.Sorry if i bust your bubble vetee 59jdwl
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Rattiac this might motivate you vette59jdwl
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Rattiac this should give you a good idea what you are up against if you decided to go with all metal.........http://www.realsteel.com/projects/1931-chevrolet-sedan/......vette59jdwl
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Thats a beautiful car. Now I dont feel bad for wanting to go to blackwall tires. Looks really good on that car.
Here's something I found in the off-road world for helping to cut square tubing .
http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-Portaband-Tables-Accessories_c_35.html
Still havent herd from the guy on the H/V metal saw . Maybe im just being impatient .
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wow, the 32 roadster has really come a long way since I saw pictures of it parked under a canopy at the side of a house.
mike
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No Mike I am sorry if i mislead you.This apple green car is my buddy's Jack Kennedy.I am following Jack's build except that i am going to be using hydraulic brakes and a six cylinder 230 or 250 with either a 700R4 or a 5 speed standard from a chevy S-10. I have the rumble seat off ours the trunk lid off of ours the quarter panels off ours the doors off ours the hood is off and the Radiators of which i have 3 is off oh and the wheels are off and it is up on blocks no where near what Jack Kennedy.s is.His is now painted and driveable He is in the complession stages and doing the apholstery.
All i was doing was showing rattiac some pictures of how it is suppose to be done and that is what i am doing taking it all apart to start over. Right now i have the corvette all apart and am redoing the paint and the interior all new dash new carpet and door panels as well as seats and most of the chrome.As a mater of fact i am looking for a good chrome shop here in CANADA I have heard of one in Montreal but am unsure vette59jdwl
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Thanks for the tips, links, and pictures. Some of my fear of this task is because I'm not the one who took my body apart. It was together when I first saw it but could not afford the asking price. That was in the late 70s. I ran across it again a few owners later and it was apart. I have a bag of loose wood and a can of metal brackets and bolts. I'm beginning to form a plan. If I can recreate the main bottom rails, using mine as patterns, I think I can do the rest. My tools, skills and helpers will lean me toward more metal. Although a lot of my wood is very good a lot of the attachment points were not treated with respect they deserved. :(
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Sixball I am going to say again your wood is 90 percent better than my wood ever was.The first thing i did was bought the wood for the doors here from Don Beals I never had no wood for the doors I had door hinges but no door wood nadah.Then i started taking the door posts apart one at a time I took them downstairs and prior to that i made a table in the center of one of the bedrooms so i could have a place in the house to work on the smaller things.So i took the door posts downstairs got me some butcher paper and copied the outside form of the door post both sideways and face on.This allowed me to transferr that to plywood.Then i will cut two or three layers of plywood the same schematic and will laminated them together glue and screw or glue and dowl then together.I think the thing to do is mock up your body frame pieces first,say on a table or on three or four sawhorses all leveled out.Then get the measurments of the cross pieces and the kick up for the rear axle.Then you can start to mosk up the skeleton of the vehicle.Remind us here that are interested i believe this is a 1926 chevrolet roadster that you are working on ,am i right..........http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/148887/.This should give you an idea what some of us are up agains vette59jdwl
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http://www.fquick.com/garages/Chevro...pe/1926/25505/ Sixball this is your car vette59jdwl
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Sixball I also found you this How much of this have you already got now illemnate that top piece......http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/300914786579?item=300914786579&lgeo=1&ttle=1925+1926+Chevrolet+Coupe+Wood+Body+Kit+Complete&vectorid=229466&tc=US&rmvSB=true....vette59jdwl
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Vette59, Thanks for all the information. At least mine is a roadster and has a lot less wood than a coupe or sedan. Yes it is a '26. I think the last picture is a '26-'27 Ford. The Chevy has hidden hinges and no bead around the door.
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sixball.......http://forums.aaca.org/topic/165406-1926-7-chevrolet-parts-for-sale/.......This might help I think the first thing is to make the frame rails and drill the holes that go through the frame there should be bolts with a large washer on top of the wood. I will sentdyou pictures of the way they are on the 32 chevy i do not think there is much difference. If you google 28 chevrolet restoration there is quite a forum on this coach most of this would be very similar to what you will want to accomplish vette59jdwl
PS this is what they look like without the skin funny ah lol lol vette59jdwl
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Sixball.....I have a bag of loose wood and a can of metal brackets and bolts. I'm beginning to form a plan. If I can recreate the main bottom rails, using mine as patterns, I think I can do the rest.....Post us some pictures of the parts and pieces that you have i am almost sure some of us can help you reserrect the placement of most of those parts vette59jdwl
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I've been looking at the link alot and may pick up a shrinker/stretcher to work some arches.
Another thing I've been thinking about.
Is what to do with the handles. Im sure it's possible to keep the stock handles and window regulators but should I not ??? Are they safe???
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Rattiac, I kept my stock window regulators, they work fine and are simple. As far as the door handles/latches, I went with bearclaw latches, they are much safer than the original. The ones I bought came with a mounting plate that has to be fabricated into the door. You also have to fabricate linkage to the interior/exterior door handles. It's a little tricky, but if I can do it anyone can.
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Rattiac, here's a couple pictures. I thought I had more and better pictures but this is all I can find. I hope this helps....a little.
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I also went with bear claw due to the safety of the latch, if you decide to go that way purchase the installation brackets as it makes it a breeze to install
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So, will my factory door handles work with these latches???
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you might be able to make them work with a little thought, I shaved my doors handles and I'm using a solenoid to operate my latches
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My interior handles fit with no problem. My exterior handles I had to move below the beltline because they interfered with the latch.
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I think, for now. I'll keep the original latches.
No need to make a huge project more confusing.
Once everything is nice and straight, I'll come back and change those out.
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OK this winter I need to get serious about doing this. Started a few measurements and getting an idea of how much steel to order.
I'll be asking a few questions here.
1st).
The doors need to come off. Which way would be best. Popping the pin out (if possible) OR unscrewing them from the body ???
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I believe I would pull the pins as I'm sure the bushing are worn and need to be replaced if you haven't already done so. That will have effects on setting you door gaps when you reinstall them.
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Rattiac, popping the pin out would be cool to start. Your Pontiac doesn't look all rusty like most i've delt with, you might get lucky! ;D But... they can really be hard to get sometimes. You should have a little hole for oil that can be accesed when door is open(from the inside of hinge), make sure to squirt well weeks before with penetrating spray. I got lucky on one of mine as the pin was already out and a bolt dropped in for a pin ;) the other, noway was it even budging. Had to pull screws, then soaked it in muratic acid for an hour, and bingo... drove right out.
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Agree with Sammons and 62131. But I would say take it all apart anyway so you can inspect/replace hinge pins and bushings, rusted hinge screws. And since you are replacing wood with metal the hinges may be in the way.
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OK this winter I need to get serious about doing this. Started a few measurements and getting an idea of how much steel to order.
I'll be asking a few questions here.
1st).
The doors need to come off. Which way would be best. Popping the pin out (if possible) OR unscrewing them from the body ???
Cool another project to watch go together. goodluck with it.
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you may find that the hinges are held on , with threaded bolts fine thread , that screw into special threaded connectors on the back of the post , that have nails to hold them too the wood. That's factory.
Not sure if they are still available , but you can go to home depot and buy T-NUTS in various sizes. These have spikes on the back. Tap them in position and use tiny drill on the points impressions and then hammer them. IF you change mind and do as original.
Spray the back of the wood where threaded bolts come thru with rust buster type stuff.
Problem with steeling a car out, is it then sounds like a ford when closing the doors. CLANK !!!!!!!!!!! >:( Rather than CLICK THUD ;D of a wood framed car.
Just saying.
mike 8)
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Thanks for the tips guy's. Much appreciated.
I use T-nuts at work alot for boats and other stuff.
If the car was worth more (say rare 2 Dr), I probably would go original, but it's not.
Besides wood scares me at 70mph. 8)
I'll do some sound proofing to bring the thud back and make it not sound like a tin shed.
There are major plans for the interior in the future.
Already have materials for the benches and the carpet. ;D
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wood and metal together flex and generally return to shape..................metal to metal................well just bends and may need jaws of life to get you out if bad accident.
I remember seeing talk about model a 2 door and Chevrolet 2 door and 2000 pounds ??? placed over right front corner of the roof.
Model A buckled door post badly and chevy cracked windshield glass or side door glass ??
CLICK THUD........
mike ;D ;D ;D
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Mike:::; I know buddy, I know you really, really want me to keep this wood ;). Im sorry but it's going steel and the first thing Im going to do with this wood is make a BONFIRE . ;D
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your killing me..
should I bring the weenies and the marshmallows , you supply the cold milk ???
mike
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Rattiac, when I built my coupe it was the first time I tried anything on this scale. I didn't have a welder and didn't know how to weld. Most of the wood in my car was gone, and the car had been channeled with no subframe, just a plywood floor. I bought a welder and taught myself to weld. I built a subframe and floor. I took out the remaining wood, chopped the top and fit in a new metal skeleton using 1" square metal tubing. I'm not blowing my own horn, I'm just saying if I can do it so can you!! I think most of the guys here might share a similar story. You are going to have a blast!!!
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Same here, just like Chopper my 33 was my first project. Most of the wood was gone so I figured it out and got it done. I took a lot of pics and have them on my build thread if you want to take a look. You can do it, good luck!
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I keep reading these threads and just get more confused. My '26 roadster has a lot of the wood in very good shape and some a mess. I'd like to keep some. It might work to deaden the sound. When I see the beautiful wood in Mike's roadster I want that but I know steel would be easier for me. I'm too much of a junky to burn the 90 year old hardwood. It's got to be good for something knife handles, knobs, buttons, yo-yos, picture frames....? I know I'm nuts. I Have "special" pieces of firewood sitting around That had too much grain to burn and I don't get any cars built. :-[
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Mike:::; I know buddy, I know you really, really want me to keep this wood ;). Im sorry but it's going steel and the first thing Im going to do with this wood is make a BONFIRE . ;D
My I suggest that you try and remove the wood carefully and label it as to what it is. And when you start to fab up your steel parts use them for a pattern. I found that doing this it was easier for me to make some of my inner structure , dash support, a-pillars, b-pillars, these were a real pain to remove those little nails can be tuff to pull. I found it easier to grind the head off. Here's a couple pictures of my A-pillars
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I left my good wood in.. Installed steel on floor,A pillars, above windshield steel below roof ....I had some very good wood and left it alone or in Some areas reinforced it with steel plates..make a plan on what you want to do ...change /modify as needed...I found a lot of information on this site, had questions and always got feedback and different ways to get the task accomplished
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I found some picture's of my roof and interior panels and my hood sides. I made my hood with removable sides.
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Here's a few more maybe this will give you some ideals. Hope this helps
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very nice work on the hood sides.
At least with all that wood removed from the main body, come late fall , car should not produce strange noises in the cold, like mine does.
What your showing shows ability, what I concern myself with is , visitors to this site , seeing this and end up wrecking their car and it ends up a RATTUS RODDUS .
mike 8)
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Mike, I feel to the contary. I think most who visit or join this site are motivated to saving an old GM. I think the site allows the insight to just what is involved to build one of these cool cars. I have talked to a lot of car guys that walk away from these due to the work involved in replacing the structure in one way or the other.
I like this site due to nobody being knocked down over the style or build materials used. Some fellas are confortable with wood working, some with metal. Every once in a while I will run across a rat rod that was tasefully done and I actually like the way it turned out, (even built safely). I won't knock anyones style of build, everybodys tastes are different.
I look at your wood working skills and admire it, well done. I do not have the tools or skill set for intricate wood fab. If a guy sees how our cars can be saved, and they feel they may have the ability to go wood or steel.....it might just be the car that didn't get sold to the scrapper for $20 worth of scrap!
Just my 2cents.
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I usually get my old bowties s delapidated, that the wood is not present, and that's the way I like them for my skill set of working with metal. I was never much good in shop class making a cutting board for my mother.
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Well said Sammons 8)
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Want the "thump" when you close doors....closed molecule foam (OEM water resistant type) around the steel framing. I plan on filling my A pillars and door perimeter with the stuff.
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INTERESTING SOLUTION TO GET RID OF THE **CLANK LIKE A FORD** WHEN YOUR PRE 36 CHEVY IS STEELED OUT, FILL THE VOID WITH OEM FOAM.
THUD/THUMP IS ALWAYS NICER THAN CLANK.
LET US KNOW THE RESULTS WHEN YOU EVENTUALLY DO IT.
NOT YELLING, JUST LARGER LETTERS, EASY READING
MIKE 8)
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INTERESTING SOLUTION TO GET RID OF THE **CLANK LIKE A FORD** WHEN YOUR PRE 36 CHEVY IS STEELED OUT, FILL THE VOID WITH OEM FOAM.
THUD/THUMP IS ALWAYS NICER THAN CLANK.
LET US KNOW THE RESULTS WHEN YOU EVENTUALLY DO IT.
NOT YELLING, JUST LARGER LETTERS, EASY READING
I put a steel frame around my doors and steel cross bracing to mount the power windows to and then I used a aluminum faced bubble wrap insulation on the inside the door skin and installed bear claw latches and a steel interior door panel. When closing my doors you get a thud with a click of the latches latching. I very happy with sound of a solid door closing. :)
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sounds just like a wood framed chevy.
mike l 8)
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I'll be getting some steel in the next few weeks.
Looks like I'll be using 1.5" square tube.
2 (16ft) sticks and at least a few 1-inchers.
I measured the main top rails at 1-5/8" square.
So it may get some flat strips for spacing I'll need to make up above the rear side windows.
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Thanks to everyone that has posted pictures. I am thinking about replacing the wood in my coupe and sedan. What gauge of steel did everyone use to make the A and B pillars? Also, if anyone has pictures they would like to share please PM me and I will send you my email address. I would like to gather as much reference material as possible before I start. Thanks again for all the help from this site!
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. 075 is fine. Dosent need to be too thick and makes it easier to bend if need be.
On my floors main rails, I went with 1/8" .
The link I found helped alot visually.
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Thanks to everyone that has posted pictures. I am thinking about replacing the wood in my coupe and sedan. What gauge of steel did everyone use to make the A and B pillars? Also, if anyone has pictures they would like to share please PM me and I will send you my email address. I would like to gather as much reference material as possible before I start. Thanks again for all the help from this site!
On my A and B pillars I used 11ga I posted pictures above of one of the A's the rest was 1/8th inch walled tubing and all my interior panels were 11ga I drilled 2-1//2 holes to help reduce the weight some of the panels
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Want the "thump" when you close doors....closed molecule foam (OEM water resistant type) around the steel framing. I plan on filling my A pillars and door perimeter with the stuff.
My doors close nice and solid, but a little extra is always good. Wish I would have thought of that stuff when I built my car :'(
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And now for something completely different.
To begin with I did my 27 coupe in wood. I'm a metal guy but enjoyed working with the wood. Actually came out looking like a coupe. Made one mistake, I closed up the gaps in the door area using ash.
So me and my buddies left El Paso and headed to Memphis. It was raining there and of course the wood expanded, the door was stuck shut and I had to force my way out of the car. Elbow was very sore.
AND NOW I did the roadster in steel being this was not an original configuration to begin with. Used 1" x 3" rect. tubing for sub rails and 3/4" X 1-/2" for uprights. I built a tubing bender to form the curved pieces. Adding a cage made a very solid base to connect all this to.
I use Lizard Skin for sound deadening and heat. Really quiets the steel down. Stops sound transfer and takes up very little space. Used bear claws also. A couple pictures. Ron
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Nice..metal work
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No doubt about it, ChevRon, you ARE a metal guy!
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No doubt about it, ChevRon, you ARE a metal guy!
i totally agree with this statement..You got it covered ChevRon.
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Chevron, thats some really nice work. Looks Great!!
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Thank you guys. Very much appreciate it. Ron
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I need to start modifying a C clamp to remove the door pins. Got any ideas y'all wanna share ?
Been soaking them the past month or so.
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Rattiac your Pontiac isn't an old rust bucket so making that tool might just work. Maybe 62131 or Moose would have more info on 32s. My buddy bought a $50 clamp press for removing his pins on his 32 Ford, I soaked and then tried his new tool. The drive pin on the tool kept bending even with out much pressure. Didn't work on his, I had to grind the head off, center punch and drill down past the knurel(3/4") then drove out with a drive punch and hammer. Ford is backward to a GM. GM pin knurl is locked at the top (about 3/8" down) on the cowl side.
On the two coupes i've had (34-35) I was able to soak with PB Blaster and drive 3 doors off. The last door on my 35 I had to take the hinges lose from the cowl side to get the door off and then I could get to the door side screws to remove. I put the hinge in the vise end wise and used a drive punch on my air chissel to vibrate and get moving.
I have a Model A door I have to do this to myself, not looking forward to it.....its Rusty!
Good luck!
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I really didn't have any trouble getting my pins out. I drove them out with a punch, installing the new ones I used a Kant twist clamp to press them back in,
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Thanks for the input. I'll modify a c-clamp and see if I can get a few to budge. If not it looks like I'll be removing the gauges sooner than expected.
Wouldn't want to subject them to any vibrations since they were really spendy.
Im sure once I started air impact, some wood will fall apart into pieces. :o
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In prep to actually get started on the '26 roadster I've been looking back through this thread. Too bad some of the links no longer work. Two friends are pushing me and I need it. One is really a good metal fabricator and welder and I will be pushed to go all metal. We have another friend who runs a top notch custom cabinet shop. He is also a car guy. He has a wood CNC machine and has shown interest in the past. I'm working on him to work with us to save as much wood as we can and fill in with steel where needed. One problem now is that these guys want to move fast and since the project is moved to one of their shops I can not drag it out too long. We all know steel would be faster. Decisions- Decisions! :( I'm hanging on to many of your suggestions. Maybe I ca fool them into putting the wood body frame together so we can better make a steel one. ::) We are making some major frame changes so a solid body to build from is necessary.
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Been thinking long and hard on this. I thought I'd might have to add bracing before doing this but then realized it may be in the way and dosent look like the other guy did either. So I came up with this game plan.
Remove the top horizontal pieces , tack steel up. but keep the vertical pieces in , until later.
(one side at a time).
Once I get a big enough piece of cardboard. Im gonna start drawing out the top pieces. They have a bit of a diamond shape to them if you look up laying on the floor. 😉
Sometimes ya need to look at it from a different perspective.😊
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I don't have any other projects to put this off this winter. Yay. 8)
Already priced out the steel and need to go through my steel pile to see what I have.
Was wondering should I remove the doors or leave them in until the structure is complete.
The size will be 1-1/4" square tubing.
Gonna need some gas for the welder too.
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I would square it all adjust all panels & doors and support it by tacking it temporary bracing before removing anything from the body. The doors will have to come off for the A pillars and there will be wooden sills between the body and frame I think Good luck!
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You defiantly want to sq. it and support it, If your door openings are off a little you can fit the doors to the opening
i fou
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My car was channeled when I first got it so when I did mine there was very little wood left, just the A pillar and some around the doors. I left everything in place and braced it, took out the wood and fit in 1" square tubing, tacked it, smacked it and welded it up, including the doors. My body was so out of whack I had to split the door and add metal (I'll try to find pictures). Anyway, then I took the doors off and finished them up. It was time consuming, but so worth it. I didn't have a square tubing bender so I had to make numerous pie cuts, bend the tubing into a radius and weld up the cuts
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Same as the guy's above. Square up with doors on, brace, then pull doors. If you have some sag on doors when you get body squared away, you may have to temp tack weld with correct gap.
FYI- good wood paint stir sticks are 1/8" thick, cheap ones are usually 3/32". My door openings were happy at 1/8" gap, so i would stick it, tack and repeat all around the openings.
Good luck and have fun.
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That paint stick thing is a good tip whether removing wood or replacing wood.
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Here's what I had to do to the door.
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I was looking through some pictures and found these of my A pillars
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Well, I waited too long and the link is now gone . 😔
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A lot of the links & photos here no longer work or at least for me. Too bad. But thanks for bringing it up again. There is a lot of information and some good ideas. I'm still not much farther along but hope that will change soon. I'll update the link to my '26 roadster build thread on the HAMB. It has a lot of rambling but some good wood information too. Also something I didn't see mentioned here are the Fisher body books that are for sale on line for closed cars. Also some GM shop body repair manuals. Now for mine but still good information.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/finally-my-26-chevy-roadster-build.1027114/ (https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/finally-my-26-chevy-roadster-build.1027114/)