[munch]

The rear end in my 30 Coach is out of a 57 Chevy and the pinion seal is leaking.  I did some research and bought the replacement seal and began to replace it.  After removing the yoke their was nothing else visible but the pinion gear it self.  I had read about a crush sleeve, but nothing was visible.  I put the new seal in and it still has a small leak.

Any advice?

[themoose]

munch

The crush sleeve goes between the front and rear pinion gears and us used to set the preload on the pinion bearings. When replacing the pinion bearings the yoke nut is tighten to the point where the sleeve is crushed and the distance between the bearings is reduced. causing a load to be put on the bearings that is measured by the "Drag" or resistance measured while turning the pinion. You cannot see the sleeve when you remove the yoke . What you are looking at is the front pinion bearing inner race where . Usually a leak at the seal is caused by a grove being worn in the yoke where the seal rides or a pinion bearing that has failed causing the pinion to walk in the seal. I think if the bearing was worn you would hear a growling noise in the rear so that's most likely not the cause. One thing that you might check is that the pinion nut is torqued to the proper amount. If it's not then the bearings could have excessive play which could cause the seal to leak and also damage your gears.

Moose

[woodremover]

You should also be able to buy a sleeve that fits over the yoke to give the seal a new surface to run on,
There is a name for them but I cant think of it at the moment, maybe someone else can chime in.
They also sell them for harmonic balencers , when then seal wears a groove in them
If I think of what they are called I will post it joe mac.
 They are called redi sleeves or speedy sleeves  They are on e bay and should be available at a good supply
house as well

[munch]

They did supply me with a package that had what was labeled as spacers about the same circumference as the pinion gear.  I could not find anything that referenced them and did not use them.

I did try to mark the nut before taking it off so I could reinstall it correctly and do not have any up and down play at all.

I guess it is time to start over.

[munch]

The redi sleeve looks like the ticket, I cannot find how to order per application.   

[themoose]

Check with NAPA . I think the  redi-sleeve number is, 99170, and the seal number is 17727

Moose

[munch]

Moose you're the man...  I found it and you are exactly right.

[munch]

woodremover,

thanks for putting me on the right track

[62131]

They are made by SKF Bearing Company, They were owned by C/r seals. You can find all the information on SKF's web site how to size it and their size chart along with the correct part number.

[munch]

Thanks all, it came in yesterday and I installed it.  Looks good.

[munch]

Guys, I spoke too soon.  It is leaking just sitting there.  What do you think?

[themoose]

munch

I don't know if this could have any bearing on your problem but I had a similar issue with an early rear end that leaked while it was sitting. I was using GM's latest synthetic gear lube and apparently the capillary action was causing the lube to creep past the seal and gaskets. I tried a couple if different fixes and after some research I found out that some of the old gasket material and seals just can't deal with the new stuff so I finally went with the old style hypoid 90W gear lube and the leak stopped.... Just a thought.

Moose   

[woodremover]

I too have tried to run synthetic oil in an older rear end and also had problems with leaking
and also the posi cracking when turning as the oil is just to slippery.

[munch]

Moose, Woodremover

Any particular brand?

[themoose]

munch

I used Valvoline  High=Performance 80W-90
Here are the specs

API Grade Rating:	GL5 or MT-1
Container Size:	1 qt
Conventional:	Yes
Extreme Pressure Additives:	No
Hose Included:	No
Synthetic Blend:	No
Synthetic:	No
Weight/Viscosity:	80W90

Moose