Rusty Bowtie
General Category => General Discussion - Intros => Topic started by: munch on March 26, 2014, 05:20:57 PM
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I drove my car to work on Friday and had a ball, so much so I went for a ride on Saturday. I was getting close to home and the car died. It just lost power. I thought it was all electric, but I had blinker, lights and radio. Got it home and checked the electric fuel pump and it is getting gas, but won't start like it has no spark, It has a HEI distributor, what do you think.
How can I tell by myself if it is firing?
Thanks all
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First check for 12v at the HEI power in, normally a large pink wire...could have an inline fuse. BUT...I suspect that the ignition module inside the distributor is bad. Autozone can bench test the module...be sure to use the thermal grease!
Ed
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Thanks Ed...
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Had that happen to me on my ol '68 wrecker. The HEI had been on it for 5-6 years, left me out in the middle of nowhere by my self (before cell phones). I pulled #1 plug wire off, took a Phillips screw driver and stuck it in the end, propped it up where it would ground against my tall valve cover bolt to check spark. Of coarse no spark, 2 hrs later I found it. The HEI 12v terminal @ the fuse box was corroded. X2 on the d.grease.
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Unplugged the hot lead at the distributor and there is no power with key on. Coil fuse is good. I have been having some problems with the ignation where some time you turn the key and nothing happens, which is exactly what it did after it shut down on me. Never got the starter to turn until after it was home.
So, I checked for power at the same hot lead coming from the ignation at the steering column with key on, no power.
Flaming River GM column, maybe bad ignation switch?
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Not familiar with flaming river, but if it has the rod running from the key switch down to the modual box check for proper adjustment. There are 2-3 little screws to adjust up or down. I've had them slip on me before. I think the rod pulls up for start.
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I've had the same experience as hammons with the bad wire at the coil. It will sometimes be the module, and if you don't have the grease in there that could well be it. Any luck finding the trouble yet?
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Thanks, hope to check it this evening.
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Yep. I burnt up a aftermarket module in the 27 sedan after I got it running. I thought it was vapor locking cuz it would start after awhile, must have been when the module cooled down enough. After awhile it left me for good, so I put a stock HEI in it and now no problems.
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As I said, I tested for power at the switch on the column that the rod from the key switch works to complete the connection but with key on the engine spins but no power to the pink coil wire connection there. Now it even stopped spinning the engine.. That switch completes connection when the key is turned and the rod pulls the contacts together. I replaced it a few years back, bt it appears to be bad again. Make sense?
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Sounds like that just might be it. If they don't cost too much I would just replace it. I suppose you could bypass to check it. I took a job my buddy offered me couple yrs ago at his parts house, it was amazing the amount of new part failures (Delco, Motor Craft and Mopar brands)
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OK I replaced the switch on the column and won't even spin. Took Ed's advice and remover the ignition module from the distributor and had it tested. It tested bad, so I replaced it. Won't even spin. I am getting 12v to the distributor as it test ok. I am at a loss and need help.
Any suggestions?
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If the engine won't turn over at all munch, it's either something to do with the starter motor itself, or the wiring on the way to the starter. It might be one of those infernal intermittent connections.
To eliminate the starter as the source of trouble, use a screwdriver across the terminals right on the starter solenoid (I'm assuming you have a solenoid here) and if it turns then it's not the starter.
So then you will need to use a multimeter and start checking the wiring.
If you have a plug connecting your wiring through the firewall, the type that disconnects, make sure all the individual wires are tight in their respective side of the connector.
The bad module would have caused a lack of spark for the plugs, but now that has been replaced, it is one less problem to diagnose.
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Problem solved, with all that prodding around the neutral switch connection was loose. I can be a dummy sometimes.
Thanks all, on the road tomorrow...
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Certainly happy to hear you are all fixed up. When I used to mechanic for a GM dealership back in the day before they even had cars, tracking down wiring problems was about the only thing that was charged out at straight time. All too often it is some obscure little thing.
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Is it normal for those ignition modules to go out? That distributor has only been a little over three years.
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If they don't have that grease between the module and the distributor where they mount, they will fail quickly. Can't remember the name but I think it's called dielectric grease.
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Your right Cocobolo, it is dielectric grease and is necessary to function properly
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I used all that came with the replacement, should I do anything else to protect it?
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Is it normal for those ignition modules to go out? That distributor has only been a little over three years.
Yes, They are electronic, When the work they are great when they don't you're walking. I always have a spare in the glovebox.
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Your right Cocobolo, it is dielectric grease and is necessary to function properly
Actually it's "thermo grease" which is designed for very high temperatures, dielectric is to protect connections from corroding. Dielectric will just melt away and not transfer any heat. The thermo grease is normally a white paste.
BTW: It's normally included with a new module, it's the same stuff they use on computers to join the CPU and heat sink so the heat transfers.