Rusty Bowtie
General Category => General Discussion - Intros => Topic started by: munch on March 11, 2014, 03:49:21 PM
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I have two request:
Am starting to think about interiors and would like to see some pics for inspiration.
Does anyone have a pic of the rear area of a sedan, mine is a 1930. I don't know what the original seat configuration looked like. Did the seat back sit against the rear wall or was it sit in some?
Thanks guys, I know I bounce around with my thoughts but I'm constantly planning.
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I'd like to give this thread a little kick start if possible. I'm wrestling with the interior of my '32 coupe. I put in a flat headliner covered with black vinyl and since I got my seat back from the upholsterer I am struggling with the other panels around and behind the seat. I started making templates from posterboard but that was a little flimsy so I got some heavier cardboard. I also wanted to do it in 2 or 3 panels but I don't think that will work, I think I need top and bottom center and top and bottom sides. I have been searching the net with some success. What have you guys done? Any pictures? Like Munch I am all over the place....but still moving forward :)
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Chopper,
I did get some 1/8 inch brown board (forget what it is called) and made door panels and did the sides and back window of the sedan in three pieces. I started with cardboard. Not bad, but could use some fine tuning. At least it a starting place.
My car didn't have a back seat, just an covered plywood seat and back. I would like to have something that looked like the original styling.
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Munch, I used 1/4" luan plywood for the door panels and headliner, I don't think it is too think and it is very sturdy. I will have to get some type of panel board like you used so it will bend and conform to the curve of the interior. But because of the compound curves it seems I have to make panels from the beltline down and beltline up, and then divide that into sides and back. It's frustrating because I can't beat it into place with a hammer!! ;D
For your back seat, can you use a minivan seat? You may have to narrow it and then upholster to how you want it.
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Thanks Chopper, I will look at minivan seats. Any particular model?
I used 1/8 inch tempered hardboard from Hone Depot
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Munch, I used a 3rd row seat from a Ford Aerostar minivan. It fit well, but I tapered the seat frame so it perfect, then I had it recovered. I'll put up some pictures of the frame shortly.
Thanks, I'll check out the hardboard at H.D.
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Here's the seat frame I tapered.
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I think the mini van seats that i have looked at are all crap mostly because they are offset I think what you want is the middle or back seat out of a full size dodge van or a set of bucket seats out of a mustang a corvette or any sport type car vette59jdwl
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CRAP choper526 your pictures will not blow up cant make them larger how did you do that vette59jdwl
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These are the back and rear seats out of a Montana van not worth much
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What I used to do the interior in my 38 was black panel board, it is some what moister resistant and will not warp like regular upholstery board. I purchased it from a local interior shop. I have found that you can scribe it on one side or both and bend tight curves with it. To make compound curves you can cut pieces to fit in the corners and glue other pieces on top to fill in the area and when it dries take a small angle grinder and grind the edges smooth where it over laps. Then cover it with 1/8 closed cell foam to make the surface a smooth then cover. Wish I had pictures to post but didn't take any during the time I did the upholstery.
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Just a thought...I used 3/16'' black pvc / or Extruded Acrylic in my '40 Ford for door panels and kick panels from WW Graninger...Got it free from my last job... They have different thickness....Thinner sheet can be heated with heat gun to go around contours. can be attached with plastic push in fastners like on door panels....upholsterery can be mounted to this also... can post pics if any one wants to see it
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Just a thought...I used 3/16'' black pvc / or Extruded Acrylic in my '40 Ford for door panels and kick panels from WW Graninger...Got it free from my last job... They have different thickness....Thinner sheet can be heated with heat gun to go around contours. can be attached with plastic push in fastners like on door panels....upholsterery can be mounted to this also... can post pics if any one wants to see it
Never thought of using that. I'd like to see the pics if you can.
Tom
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A good book for reference is Custom Auto Interiors by Don Taylor and Ron Mangus.
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Photos..when working on door panels before primering and more body work
Photos# 1-2-3 door panel attached photo #4kick panel,,, Panel screwed in to door metal which you can use screw holes for plastic fastners when satisfied with placement and fit
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I found a company that offers an 1/8" 4' x 8' of bendable plywood . Hopefully the link will work.
http://www.plywoodcompany.com/application/home/itemdetails.aspx?categoryid=24&itemid=163
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Thanks a lot guys. Now I got something else to start planning for ???. I have used a 1/8th inch thick plastic upholtery board awhile back. If I remember it bent pretty well without fracturing, but I agree if heated it would even work better.
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Where can this plastic panel board be purchased?
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I found mine at a local automotive upholstery supply house, they carried the older car cardboard style and the plastic.
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CRAP choper526 your pictures will not blow up cant make them larger how did you do that vette59jdwl
Let me see if I can repost them so they blow up. I think a full sized bench seat would be too big, unless you want to shorten it. The seat I got from the Ford, I think, would be a perfect size for the rear seat of a sedan. I only tapered mine because the body of the coupe tapers in towards the front.
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Where can this plastic panel board be purchased?
Here's a couple places I found and am kicking around, once I finish my templates.
http://www.roddoors.com/pages/gumbo-dir.html
http://www.miamicorp.com/products/SUPPLIES%20@@26%20TOOLS/DOOR%20PANEL%20BOARD/ABS%20BOARD.aspx
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Are these pictures better?
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Here's one more I couldn't squeeze in :)
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Chopper526 Thank you very much reason i asked I am going to be doing this to the seat that i am going to be putting in my 32 roadster should be the same configuration as your coupe.I am just cutting out the pattern for the main frame rails and going to be putting all the wood back in our roadster so thanks again vette59jdwl
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Vette, correction- the seat I used was the third row from a 1995 Ford WINDSTAR.
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Vette59jdwl there's a stock 32 roaster seat on craigs list for $250.00 asking price it's been recover I don't how to post a link to get you there.
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62132 I googled cragslist.org glasgow ky 32 chevy roadster seat and i am not coming up with anything send me your telly number and ill call you lave@cogeco.ca
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Chopper 526 I like that seat someone on here was using a third seat from a dodge full size van in a 32 not sure who, But i like this seat you did only thing is i would like mind light brown look like leather and pleated that would be real nice thanks vette59jdewl
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62132 I googled cragslist.org glasgow ky 32 chevy roadster seat and i am not coming up with anything send me your telly number and ill call you lave@cogeco.ca
I looked it up again try 1932 Chevy coupe original bench seat In Louisville Ky. his number is 812-453-5478 his name is Jerry
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Thanks i sent you a personal on how to post copy and paste. thanks again vette59jdwl
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Is this what you are looking for:
1932 Chevy coupe original bench seat - $250 (Newburgh)
http://evansville.craigslist.org/pts/4860301078.html
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Is this what you are looking for:
1932 Chevy coupe original bench seat - $250 (Newburgh)
http://evansville.craigslist.org/pts/4860301078.html
That's the listing I was talking about :) Thanks Ed
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Thanks ede that was great detective work and when i clicked on that it says error OK not to worry i found this while in Kentucky. Nice and in Leather with an arm rest should not be hard to make an armrest for the door were cooking lads vette59jdwl
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I went there and my computer says site blocked so i dropped my firewall and that is one great looking seat for 250 and a drive to ky.i wonder how much it weighs love it vette59jdwl
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I went there and my computer says site blocked so i dropped my firewall and that is one great looking seat for 250 and a drive to ky.i wonder how much it weighs love it vette59jdwl
When I try to post on Canadian Craigslist..I get spam warnings and blocked.
BTW: Obama took over the Internet today...maybe he doesn't want Canadians looking at our stuff?? ;D ;D ;D ;D
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That seat looks too good to be true for the money, Vette. Don't we have a brother down there that could help out???????
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Ed I have CYBER GHOST 5 even OBAMA is not going to slow this old boy down,But yes CANADIAN content going to US of A Many Many time i get WEB SITE BLOCKED I have no idea who the hell is doing that,as well as on NETFLIX I get better content if i go to the American network that if i stay on the Canadian network It like shopping. I get more bang for my buck shopping American even with 20 percent on the dollar.This A hole in Montreal he had the chain i wanted for a Yamaha KIodiak 400 he had it for 19 buck then he tacked on 19.99 cents shipping and its only 120 miles from here then he added 5.30 taxes for a total of 45 dollars and change US and he lives in MONTREAL. I can order it out of CALIFORNIA with free shipping for 2995 US do the math vette59jdwl
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Ed I have CYBER GHOST 5 even OBAMA is not going to slow this old boy down,But yes CANADIAN content going to US of A Many Many time i get WEB SITE BLOCKED I have no idea who the hell is doing that,as well as on NETFLIX I get better content if i go to the American network that if i stay on the Canadian network It like shopping. I get more bang for my buck shopping American even with 20 percent on the dollar.This A hole in Montreal he had the chain i wanted for a Yamaha KIodiak 400 he had it for 19 buck then he tacked on 19.99 cents shipping and its only 120 miles from here then he added 5.30 taxes for a total of 45 dollars and change US and he lives in MONTREAL. I can order it out of CALIFORNIA with free shipping for 2995 US do the math vette59jdwl
Probably mentioned it..but I am a drop point for my Canadian buddies..receive packages almost daily for them. I'm only about 800 yards from Canada...so it's not much of a drive for them. 90% of vehicle traffic on my road north/south are Quebecers! My cell phone is always on Bell Canada....
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That seat looks too good to be true for the money, Vette. Don't we have a brother down there that could help out???????
The seat is actually located in the town of Newburgh In. if anybody is traveling to the Frog Follies they will be very close to where the seat is located. It's about 140 miles from where I live but I will be attending the Follies as I do every year and will have friends there with a truck. If this will help or anybody has a ideal in mind and I can help let me know.
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That seat looks too good to be true for the money, Vette. Don't we have a brother down there that could help out???????
The seat is actually located in the town of Newburgh In. if anybody is traveling to the Frog Follies they will be very close to where the seat is located. It's about 140 miles from where I live but I will be attending the Follies as I do every year and will have friends there with a truck. If this will help or anybody has a ideal in mind and I can help let me know.
You guys can always place a free ad on www.USHIP.com
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Man I would love to find a seat like Vette found for my 30 Coach. I'm looking...
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Munch Did Vette purchase the seat?
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I don't know, it sounded like he was?
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Thanks ede that was great detective work and when i clicked on that it says error OK not to worry i found this while in Kentucky. Nice and in Leather with an arm rest should not be hard to make an armrest for the door were cooking lads vette59jdwl
Are you going to buy this seat Vette?
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MUNCH I am down here in CUBA sucking up the sun and playing on the beach and drinking lots of rum ,probably not I was talking with Jerry the other night and he took measurments I am almost positive that the coup seat will not fit the ROADSTER, Its all yours.Vette59jdwl
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MUNCH I am down here in CUBA sucking up the sun and playing on the beach and drinking lots of rum ,probably not I was talking with Jerry the other night and he took measurments I am almost positive that the coup seat will not fit the ROADSTER, Its all yours.Vette59jdwl
Thanks, enjoy as if you aren't already...
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MUNCH I am down here in CUBA sucking up the sun and playing on the beach and drinking lots of rum ,probably not I was talking with Jerry the other night and he took measurments I am almost positive that the coup seat will not fit the ROADSTER, Its all yours.Vette59jdwl
Thanks, enjoy as if you aren't already...
Oh, where is it listed?
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The fellow that had the seat was called JERRY his phone number was 1 812 453 5478
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The fellow that had the seat was called JERRY his phone number was 1 812 453 5478
Thank you sir...
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munch I tried and tried to call him to ask about the exact width with no success. The reason i did not purchase this seat is it is for a coupe or coach,/the bottom of the seat is all one piece integral with the back and in the roadster the seat bottom has to lift up to get at the are below the seat,this is where the tool bag is stored also the jack the jack handle the crank handle and other tools you wish to carry also cleaning supplies.because there is no room in the rumble seat area for these implements that is why i passed on it have a great day I heard frezsing rain tonight for upstate New York and Canada vette59jdwl
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munch I tried and tried to call him to ask about the exact width with no success. The reason i did not purchase this seat is it is for a coupe or coach,/the bottom of the seat is all one piece integral with the back and in the roadster the seat bottom has to lift up to get at the are below the seat,this is where the tool bag is stored also the jack the jack handle the crank handle and other tools you wish to carry also cleaning supplies.because there is no room in the rumble seat area for these implements that is why i passed on it have a great day I heard frezsing rain tonight for upstate New York and Canada vette59jdwl
My car is a1930 coach, if I can get measurements from him would be great. I would want to buy without.
I'm here in SC by the coast, no freezing just rain.
Hope you are having a great time. Smoke a stogie for me...
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OK, I got my tools, my template material and the panelboard from Home Depot that Munch suggested. It was only 9 bucks for a 4x8 sheet, it's 1/8" think and sort of bends. I cut a couple panels and tried soaking them and bending them. Let's see if they hold their shape ???
Vette, Cuba???? You might find some old cars down there ::)
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I hope it works out for you Chopper especially since I have to do mine still.
I have a complete seat for a model A coupe. It has the complete frame and adjustors, no upholstery on the springs, if any one is interested.
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Munch that would make a great front seat for a coach.As far as finding old cars there are very few knew cars.and most of the cars are rag tops and they surely dont know how to make a rag top they are all wrinkled from the sun and heat
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Vette, the bodies look nice, but man those tops are beat. Was this a car show?
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I hope it works out for you Chopper especially since I have to do mine still.
I have a complete seat for a model A coupe. It has the complete frame and adjustors, no upholstery on the springs, if any one is interested.
Does the back lay forward?
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Munch that would make a great front seat for a coach.As far as finding old cars there are very few knew cars.and most of the cars are rag tops and they surely dont know how to make a rag top they are all wrinkled from the sun and heat
Those are some desirable cars but as you said they can't do convertible tops.
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I hope it works out for you Chopper especially since I have to do mine still.
I have a complete seat for a model A coupe. It has the complete frame and adjustors, no upholstery on the springs, if any one is interested.
What are the measurements?
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OK, I got my tools, my template material and the panelboard from Home Depot that Munch suggested. It was only 9 bucks for a 4x8 sheet, it's 1/8" think and sort of bends. I cut a couple panels and tried soaking them and bending them. Let's see if they hold their shape ???
Vette, Cuba???? You might find some old cars down there ::)
Chopper, please let me know how it works out for you.
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Believe it or not this is no car show This is down town HAVANA and every car in these pictures are TAXI vette59jdwl
The first pic the green onw is a friend of a friend's 53 Buick its going to be a TAXI as well
The next one is a geourgeous 55 ford and yes that is a taxie also.
Also a beautiful 55 chevy.
This beautiful 59 ford was the newest of the old cars we have seen all week
vette59jdwl
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OK, I say let's start trading with Cuba again................at least the cars!!! ;D ;D
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OK, I say let's start trading with Cuba again................at least the cars!!! ;D ;D
Oh I am in agreement with you. We need those cars back in the states, but from the look of them and the mags on them they are collecting them, and keeping them as nice as they can.
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OK, here's what I did. I figure I will divide the rear interior panels into 6 sections: 2 sides-top and bottom, center-top and bottom. The first panel I did was the passenger side top panel.
I cut cardboard in general shape and fit it into the first area I wanted to make my first panel. I traced the edges all around and then trimmed it so the cardboard fit perfectly. Then I traced that onto the tempered fiberboard I got from Home Depot, that Munch told me about. Although the board is pretty flexible, it is resistant to tight radius bends and won't hold shape. So, I soaked the board in water in the area I wanted to bend, bent it to the basic radius I wanted and then wedged it under my workbench until it dried. When it was dry I took the bent panel and fit it into place and drilled holes to hold it in place. I took the panel off and soaked it again and screwed and clamped it back up while it was wet. When it is dry it should form to my interior pretty well. I am not sure how I will ultimately hold the panels in place, i.e. screws, velcro, etc., or how I will attach the windlace around the doors. Any ideas?
It is time consuming but I think it is going to work out well. I'll keep you posted ;D
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Chopper... These are what I plan on using when I get there ..Drill hole (so fasterner is tight in hole) in board ,plastic. or pvc sheet what ever you are using insert in hole glue and tape the top, drill hole in mounting surface to accept fastner
http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/Automotive/Automotive_Misc/X-mas_Tree_Fasteners_(Black)/index.html
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OK, here's what I did. I figure I will divide the rear interior panels into 6 sections: 2 sides-top and bottom, center-top and bottom. The first panel I did was the passenger side top panel.
I cut cardboard in general shape and fit it into the first area I wanted to make my first panel. I traced the edges all around and then trimmed it so the cardboard fit perfectly. Then I traced that onto the tempered fiberboard I got from Home Depot, that Munch told me about. Although the board is pretty flexible, it is resistant to tight radius bends and won't hold shape. So, I soaked the board in water in the area I wanted to bend, bent it to the basic radius I wanted and then wedged it under my workbench until it dried. When it was dry I took the bent panel and fit it into place and drilled holes to hold it in place. I took the panel off and soaked it again and screwed and clamped it back up while it was wet. When it is dry it should form to my interior pretty well. I am not sure how I will ultimately hold the panels in place, i.e. screws, velcro, etc., or how I will attach the windlace around the doors. Any ideas? Chopper, looks great. Did the panel do well being wet?
It is time consuming but I think it is going to work out well. I'll keep you posted ;D
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Chopper... These are what I plan on using when I get there ..Drill hole (so fasterner is tight in hole) in board ,plastic. or pvc sheet what ever you are using insert in hole glue and tape the top, drill hole in mounting surface to accept fastner
http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/Automotive/Automotive_Misc/X-mas_Tree_Fasteners_(Black)/index.html
Would it not be better to get your panel to fit like you want and drill your panel and mounting service at the same time to get correct alignment of your fastener.
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Yes failed to mention that..... per drill holes first,,use screws to hold panel in pre drilled holes as you lay out the material; then remove and attach fastners. then you can can finish you board with foam and do design work or not work.... then apply your ultra leather or your fabric of choice. .that was the procedure when I did my Sedan Delivery
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That's OK FatnLow, I knew what you meant. I like those fasteners, that may be the way to go,simple and easy. Thanks!
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Since I have an upholstery sewing machine, plan on stitching Velcro to the material backing and gluing the other part of the Velcro to the car.
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I used a thin aluminum sheet for the corners, it did about the same thing your doing but you don't have to wait for it to dry to take shape.
I used contact cement in a spray gun and then covered with vynal. I still have the kick panels to do and the glue have been in the gun for months!
Over the doors I used thin plywood that I covered. It hangs a little below the metal and provides the seal to the door. With your chopped top it would reduce the entry room.
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I like the velcro idea, Ed. My rear is over time the velcro will pull off of the panels.
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That looks like it turned out real nice, Logride. If my panels fail I'll switch to aluminum. How did you attach the panels to the car? Do any of you guys have windlace around the door opening? How did you attach it? I was thinking of contact cement and/or pop rivets.
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I still have wood so when the alum was in place I drilled thru the panel slightly into the wood.
Then removed panel, put a small nail in each hole, sprayed glue, covered in vynal and carefully nailed in place with the nail under the vynal. I stapled around the windows and the garnish moldings hold it in too.
No I hope I never have to take it apart.
I would recommend the aluminum. It formed much easier and the result was better than I expected.
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Logride your interior look nice, the shinny strips that's running along the doors what is that and how is it attached?
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That looks like it turned out real nice, Logride. If my panels fail I'll switch to aluminum. How did you attach the panels to the car? Do any of you guys have windlace around the door opening? How did you attach it? I was thinking of contact cement and/or pop rivets.
I put windlace in my 38 as it had a strip of media board to attach it to with a staple gun. If you have replaced your wood with steel I agree with your thinking that you will have to glue and rivet it in place.
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The strips are off the sides of an old Plymouth, cut to length and the ends finished with a hammer, dolly, and file.
I dimpled holes at each end and used wood screws into the door. At the bottom I used 1957 Buick kick panel trim cut down to fit. The stainless is mostly what holds the door panels on.
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I like them, it really adds to the design of your interior panels
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Those door panels look great! I'm too far into it now to switch to aluminum, we'll see how it goes.
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Hey thanks,
It takes a long time to figure out what your going to do, and then do it.
The contact cement works great. If you brush it on it be careful not to get it to thick and let it dry a bit before applying the material otherwise it can make your fabric look saggy.
The spray gun works great for a eaven application. A quart costs $13, prety cheap compared to a few cans of 3m brand spray glue.
I did use wind lace on the front and back of the door, I stapled into the wood but the pop rivet idea sounds good into metal. At the top I used light foam covered with fabric on the top of the door for the seal.
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Nice work guys and some great advice. I will be looking at doing something with my interior so this is real helpful.
Tom
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You know that i like everything and yes there are some great ideas here. When i did the interior of the tear drop for my daughter I found a hardware store that was by a marina. and i purchased a box of 100 of these little round grommets stainless steel and i also purchased stainless steel screws.When i was assembling this I made sure that i had all the grains on all the pieces going the same way. I used birch,then i found a real nice fawn maple stain. and this worked out great. I see very few street rods especially older ones that have a real wood look on the inside just one man's opinion PS don't get sun burnt vette59jdwl
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Found this on ebay 31 Chevy coupe seat item #161624098274
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I have a complete seat for a model A coupe. It has the complete frame and adjustors, no upholstery on the springs, if any one is interested.
[/quote]What are the measurements?
[/quote]/
munch. The seat doesn't fold forward, and here are some pic's of what I have.
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I fit and trimmed the passenger lower side panel for the interior, cut and bent the upper driver's side panel, fit in the driver's side lower panel, cut down and welded the interior trim pieces and trimmed out the panel and fit in the trim on the passenger side. Here's some pictures:
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Here's a couple more pictures, sorry for the glare. I used a rotozip to cut out for the window trim, it works real nice when you go slow.
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Hey Chopper the board your using is it holding it's shape good after it dries?
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Yes it is holding its shape. It is fitting vey well but I may mist it with water while it is in place just to try and get it 100%.
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Yes it is holding its shape. It is fitting vey well but I may mist it with water while it is in place just to try and get it 100%.
That's the reason I asked, it looks to be bending and fitting nice into the curves, it's looking good
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Looking good Chopper!
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Looks good Chopper. That's street rodding at it's best, using what ya have to get the job done.
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Chopper ,how thick is the board that you are using ? Did you get it at Home Depot ? Thanks
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Thanks, guys. You are right, Ghost, and one sheet will do the whole back area of the car. So much cheaper than some other stuff I saw out there. And, the more I am getting used to it, the easier it is to work with and the better I like it.
Dugeman, yes, it is from Home Depot. It is called tempered panelboard (I think). It is 1/8" thick and sells for 8 dollars and change for a 4' x 8' sheet. They also have 1/4", that might be good for flat areas like door panels.
I am going to fit everything in place and let it sit for a while while I prime and paint the car. Then, if everything still fits good and looks nice, I'll cover with vinyl and do a final install. At least I hope that's the way it goes ::)
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Paint?
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Thanks, guys. You are right, Ghost, and one sheet will do the whole back area of the car. So much cheaper than some other stuff I saw out there. And, the more I am getting used to it, the easier it is to work with and the better I like it.
Dugeman, yes, it is from Home Depot. It is called tempered panelboard (I think). It is 1/8" thick and sells for 8 dollars and change for a 4' x 8' sheet. They also have 1/4", that might be good for flat areas like door panels.
I am going to fit everything in place and let it sit for a while while I prime and paint the car. Then, if everything still fits good and looks nice, I'll cover with vinyl and do a final install. At least I hope that's the way it goes ::)
Chopper,
I'm glad that the tempered board is working out for you. I didn't try wetting it and did get a crack in the corner which I covered with duct tape. Looks good, but I think I will try wetting it.
How long did you soak it?
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Munch, I ran the area I wanted to bend under a slow stream of hot water for 30 seconds to a minute, I got it good and wet. There is a smooth, shiny side and a rough side, I soaked both sides, the shiny doesn't absorb water well but the rough side does. Anyway, after soaking it, it bends pretty easily. I think using hot water makes a difference too. Once its dry it really does hold its shape.
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Paint?
Logride, I was kicking around a color, black, yellow, copper were my 3 big choices, and back in December Moose photoshopped my car in yellow. I think that's the way I am going.
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COOL. A chevy version of the milner coupe. I think I will call you John 8)
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John Chopper from Phily
Mike here is a pic from the past test driving the tear drop.The young'in called it tear doppie
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Nice interior work and ideas fellas! I'm getting lots of ideas from y'all ;)
Chopper great job, I like what you did.
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Thanks, guys. Ghost, that's a great car to be compared to but I'm not trying to do a copycat of the Milner coupe, although it seems my car has been going in that direction. I will say when I first saw that car in the movie 40 years ago, right then and there, I knew I wanted a five window coupe. I don't know why it took all this time to get one.
Vette....John Chopper, nice, just don't call me late for dinner ;D
Sammons, I'm just trying to follow you guys.
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How about a a poll for the color of the coupe?
The yellow looks good, but so would the copper.
I have allways wanted an orange car, but it has to be the right car like a Nova. Or I think yours would look great in that color.
So that's my vote.
This is like when a woman asks " Does this dress make me look fat?"
All in fun,
It's looking great!
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How about a a poll for the color of the coupe?
The yellow looks good, but so would the copper.
I have allways wanted an orange car, but it has to be the right car like a Nova. Or I think yours would look great in that color.
So that's my vote.
Bring it on!! You guys vote.....................(then I'll paint it yellow ;D)
This is like when a woman asks " Does this dress make me look fat?"
All in fun,
It's looking great!
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This interior stuff is going s...l...o...w..... Fit it in, take it out, trim it, fit it in, repeat. I know it will be worth it in the end but it's monotonous. I am now putting interlocking "tabs" on the panels so they stay flush to one another and line up properly.
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This interior stuff is going s...l...o...w..... Fit it in, take it out, trim it, fit it in, repeat. I know it will be worth it in the end but it's monotonous. I am now putting interlocking "tabs" on the panels so they stay flush to one another and line up properly.
So Chopper I asked you earlier about this board your using holding its shape after it dry's it appears to be doing so.
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Works great!
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Did you spray it the second time after you got it installed to help it retain its shape.
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Yes, and now most pieces are in place. I will keep trimming and fitting (a couple spots have to be filled) until it's as good as I think it's going to get, then mist it or use a steamer to finish it off.
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Chopper that is looking real good. You got more stamina than I do. Keep at it.
John
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Chopper you going to cover the panels in high density foam to give your covering some cushion or design?
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Yes, I am going to cover first with foam and then vinyl. That will give it a better look and feel, also help with insulation and deaden sound.
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I made my kick panels today. The spray gun didn't have hardened glue in it like I thought it would.
This is the contact cement I used, I also used it on the running board mats.
2 light coats on both parts to be bonded let set 20 minutes and be sure you have it lined up when putting it together. Because it's going to stick like crazy.
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The sheet stainless is from a 57 Buick and the long strips are side trim from a old Plymouth.
I dimpled the screw holes with a counter sunk # 10 machine screw and a 5/16 nut on the back side.
I used "t" nuts on the back to hold the long strips on
Chopper I used your idea for the material for the kick panels. Worked great glued easily.
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Logride I like the scuff plates you put on your panels. I use to save all the door panel stainless strips from the old cars we scraped just for building new panels. 70's 2dr chevelles had some nice long ones with the pushin/bend over tabs on the back.
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Logride, I like those kickpanels. I was going to go "plain Jane" but you're giving me ideas. Are you going to continue the sheet stainless across the bottom of your door panel?
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Logride are you using Masonite board for your panel?
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I am using Masonite for the kick panels. The door panels were thinner plywood.
I cut the scuff plate with tin snips carefully because I don't have any extra.
Here's a picture of the panel, I had them installed and it was really starting to look finished. But I started wiring today.
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It all looks good guys. I'm learning some stuff.
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Log ride , nice job. I think that one of the joys of owning and working on our cars , are the hidden talents that they draw out of us.
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Log ride , nice job. I think that one of the joys of owning and working on our cars , are the hidden talents that they draw out of us.
I think you're right, Dugeman. I played around with cars my whole life but I never really thought I was capable of doing what I did with my coupe. I mean, I know it's not rocket science but still, to put all the components together and actually have it work well and not look too bad, either. ::)
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You know to some of us it not really that hard to do or we either are not scared to try to. I have some friends who ask how or where did you learn to do that, my reply is it can't be that hard other people do it. As said before it might not be perfect but nothing is, the person who does the work knows where the flaws are.
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I agree with you fellas. Just because you haven't tried something before doesn't mean you can't do it, you'll never know till you try. Most approches are common sense, although i've met a few that didn't have that. ;)
If I were interested in something, (plumbing, wiring, carpentry etc) I would seek out someone that had that trade. I would offer my help for free just to learn how to do It, watch listen and learn! :)
That's one thing that is nice about building your own stuff, you only have to please yourself! Dad always told me "God hates a coward" lol ;D