General Category > Wood & Framing Section
Sixball's Wood Works(a splinter group discussion)
EDNY:
madmike3434
I trust your skill level that you can take the wood out of the trunk lid / quarter panel area and using tools previously talked about, duplicate what looks to be very complete. Main thing is you have quality parts to copy and I see that.
I used #4 or #6 size wood screws 1/2" long to hold the front door post to the cowl section rather than nails , which I think would have a tendency to vibrate out. You need to fit the trunk lid and check the clearance so the rounded top TRUSS HEAD screw heads will clear the quarter panels. Pre drill the hardwood with tiny drill 1/32" ???
The early read of your thread showing your parts and his where he made replacement parts for the rotted away area would be better served to reproduce the WHOLE wood part as one piece. Your cabinet maker friend should have a FINGER JOINT TOOL to join long sections together if needed but should not be necessary. Usually see them used in woodies.
The finger joint is actually stronger they say than one piece. But mostly its used by lumber companies on 1 x 2" and 2 x 2" wood because they have a whole lot of small cutoffs and want to be able to use them.
https://www.amazon.ca/Yonico-15131-Reversible-Finger-Router/dp/B00KZM25FG/ref=asc_df_B00KZM25FG/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292947999281&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10520177649745204012&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000737&hvtargid=pla-450093750600&psc=1
mike lynch..............HAIRBALL
EDNY:
sixball
Thanks again Mike. This is great help. The broken piece on the trunk lid came apart at a finger joint. I can see that the use of shorter pieces with proper joints could be stronger than one long obese because of stress on the wood grain itself. In 1966 I had a summer job at a saw mill in the molding plane. That summer they transitioned from burning the short cutoff to finger joint and gluing. It raised the profits but the whole town smelled of Elmer's gleaned piss fir.
I agree with using screws where possible. Would there be an advantage to brass to prevent rust? Should I us some sort of adhesive to keep them tight? Pre-drilling the holes will keep me from destroying what I'm trying to fix.
It seems we have hijacked this thread. Maybe someone could move it to the wood section and I will try to post pictures as we go. This could be a good addition here and hopefully encourage others. If I can do it............ :)
EDNY:
madmike3434
I think all that needed to be said about draft tube and pvc on this is done.
Oak has big grain to it and splits easily, the wood I am recommending is the WHITE ASH, much more flexible , takes nails or screws great.
I would not use BRASS screws, especially the small ones, they encounter any tightness in installing and bingo, broken in half. I speak from experience. I use the steel zinc coated ones or paint the tops. You need the small rounded top type and in #4 or #6 they start getting small . Getting them with a SQUARE DRIVE ROBERTSON HEAD is preferable because the blade type is not a good choice. Slip and slide all over and scratch paint. But if only going to primer not a problem. A Phillips head would also be a better choice
Best screws are the DECK SCREWS coated, but they have tapered heads and difficult to get the head down flat and that's the knock. You need a counter sink but then your opening up the sheet metal and causing a problem.
these trunk pieces are coated with the best varnish the boat builders use..........EPIFANES
mike lynch.........hairball
EDNY:
chopper526
Great job Mike! That wood looks too nice to hide in a car. :)
EDNY:
madmike3434
Thanks chop...........there will be no interior fabrics in the roadster other than seat. You look in the roadster and all that's going to show is varnished wood.
Always wanted a woodie and this will be the way to get that woodie look inside.
MIKE LYNCH..........mad as a hater and a HAIRBALL TO BOOT
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