Rusty Bowtie
General Category => Early Chevy/GM Discussion => Topic started by: 39delux on July 01, 2019, 09:38:57 PM
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Got a package in the mail today, well actually it came by truck. Teaser photo, guesses?
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Corvette rear end?
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Doesn't look like a 12 Bolt :-\
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i agree with Ed
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We have a winner...Ed. It's a 1993 Corvette I.R.S. complete hub to hub. Plan is to slide it under the '39 but there are a few problems. Got to narrow the unit by about 5 inches, make new adjustable mounting arms (8) and new frame rails. Oh, and plan to air bag it also. Gears will have to be changed from the present 2.73 to something like 3.31. Fun project!
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I can't wait to take this ride!!! 39delux, make sure you keep us updated with lots of pictures, I want to see this one!!
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trick with the corvette is the rear bridge mounted between your frame rails.
The aluminum half shafts should be done by driveline drive shaft specialist..
The 2 bolt holes on front of top of pinion on the case are the pinion snubber.
The sway torsion bar in rear cannot be narrowed, a custom one will have to be made by ???
mike
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PICTURE OF VET REAR ,
MIKE
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more pictures of vet rear installs
mike
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@39delux nice project! Like Chopper said post some pics and keep us updated.
Tom
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Just getting it apart was like Joe vs the volcano! Still have not attacked the axle nuts and bearing hub. Did order a 36mm socket for the axle nut and T55 torx for the bearing hub. When building the car I drew up plans and built a new frame and still have the plans so what I intend to do is build a back half on the bench, cut the old back half off and weld the new one in. I'm to old to crawl under a car to build the whole thing. Already have the new back half rails built so it's just a case of finding the width that fits the 'Vette rear best and go from there.
By the way, the sway bar CAN be narrowed. Did it on my '33 Willys, worked perfect, put over 30K miles on it and some duty at the drags.
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By the way, the sway bar CAN be narrowed. Did it on my '33 Willys, worked perfect, put over 30K miles on it and some duty at the drags.
I learn something new everyday, did not think was possible.
mike
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My 33 Willys would lift one front wheel on hard starts and the body roll was bad too because of the narrow wheel width. Went to the junkyard and found a T'bird sway bar that didn't have a bunch of bends in it. Cut a bunch out of the center, V ground the ends and welded back together. Forgot to put a sleeve on before I started but figured if it worked I would build a better one. Car launched flat and true after that and cornering was wonderful. To this day the proto is still under the car and working fine. I'm in touch with a guy building a carbon fiber '37 Chevy coupe and to solve his sway bar problem in the back he's using a Paul Horton Weld it series adjustable bar.
Golf and cookout got in the way today. Will attack again tomorrow to get the axle nuts off. Once I have the knuckles off I'll take the center section and knuckles to the sand blaster. Center is sealed so on sand SHOULD get in but will be disassembled for a gear change anyway. Nice to work with clean stuff.
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39 deluxe...............thanks for explanation. I was going to ask you the method of how you did it.
mike
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My approach to narrowing the sway bar is admittedly bonehead engineering. Had to start somewhere and a little research indicated that most sway bars are not some exotic spring steel. Not sure how much torque is on the bar, anyone know or educated guess?
Looking for a proper sealer to go onto the aluminum parts after sandblasting. Don't know if a clear coat will stick and/or peel.
Hope everyone still have ten fingers after the 4th.
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I have had some aluminum parts power coated clear but it seems like the clear has some kinda gold fleck in it.
I have also used spray bomb of engine clear with ceramic in it , but again has slight golden hue to it.
I only had the powder and engine coatings done to ease cleanup if I got oil or some other stuff on it.
ZOOPS makes some kind of sealer that lasts 2 years for aluminum , think its maybe meant for polished surfaces ?
mike
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Short update, after getting everything broken down the cleaning starts. Worked all day on the knuckles and brake caliper mounts. First was to degrease with diesel fuel, wire brush, more diesel, more wire brush, Mean Green, Scotchbrite pad, arthritis pills and finally wash. Need to find someone in this area that will glass bead before I paint with a special clear coat called Everbright. Center section with bat wings and half shafts off to the sandblaster. Pick those up tomorrow after golf. Checked with a local driveshaft special machine shop and they don't do aluminum. On my own to shorten each 2 inches.
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caliper mounts came out great , lots of elbow grease used up on those..
Small blasting cabinet is always a useful thing to have if you have a good sized compressor. Some like to blast away in driveway on 20 x 20 tarp. Only part you could not get in small blaster is the long rear mount. But could open up one end with a door to slip the longer items thru. Not something I have seen yet from harbor freight ???. Blasting beads media is readily available around here and those orange 5 gallon home depot buckets with lids come in real handy.
Guess some calling around in your 100 mile radius for shop does aluminum shafts.
mike lynch
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Short update...rear end and knuckles have been sandblasted and Everbright coated. Received new hubs (outer bearings), 5 new universal joints and new rotors. Next step is to set the rear rail section up on the table and locate the hubs and center section. Golf this weekend so it will be a while.
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That looks real nice, came out great.
My brother bought a lot of 6 rear ends at an online estate auction, minus half shafts and spring. Another guy bought a lot of scrap, it had the half shafts in it. When he went to pick up his lot he ran into the guy loading scrap and bought the half shafts from him. I'm not sure if he bought late C3 or C4.
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Got a little done today. Set the frame rails up and got them square with the world. Getting things square takes LOTS of time. Trying to get that last quarter inch and end up with a frame that looks like a diamond! The hubs are located but now I have to lift the frame about 8 inches so the knuckles clear the bench. Try again tomorrow and will make the brackets for the batwings.
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Lookin' good!
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Setting the center section today and making the brackets to support the batwings. Had to jack the whole frame off the table another 8 inches because the knuckles were hitting the table. Did that, square everything up again, put the center section in place and square it. Spend most of my time squaring things up and 1 percent welding things in place. Planning takes up a big chunk of time too.
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Well, best laid plans sometimes don't work out right. Narrowing the rear end by 4" will not work because the knuckles hit the batwings. Moved the hubs out 1 1/2" and things fit BUT I'm within 5/8" of OEM width. Looks like I'll have to fit the tires inside the fenders with lots of offset. Research shows that's exactly what Corvette did. Each time I redesign the centering/leveling and shimming takes hours. Then it's new brackets.
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question, what is the maximum rebound of the spring or coil overs you intend on using. I know in jaguars IRS its 3 1/8"
mike lynch
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Mike, that's a good question and I wish I had a good answer! Back story...I will be using air bags and been in touch with a guy also building a high dollar carbon fiber '37 Chevy coupe. He says 1 1/2" is plenty AT THE FRAME. I've added an additional 1 1/2 to that giving total clearance on 3". Last thing I want is to have the half shafts or knuckle hit the frame but I also don't want a tree top trunk either. Going to go with 17" rims to clear the brakes although 16" would clear. Wimpy rear brakes makes me wonder if an upgrade to Wilwood would be necessary. Figure if I go with a 255/60-R17 tire I SHOULD have about a 28.5" diameter tire/rim combo. The higher I set the rear end the lower the car but half shafts limit that...you get the idea. Hope I answered your question without putting you to sleep!
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I have seen guys use hockey rubber pucks on bottom of frame as bump stops.
Air bags will give you a lot of flexibility on ride height adjustments .
Vet brakes no good I thought they were supposed to be ? I run 4 piston WILWOODS on my 3 35 chevys. Am happy with way the car stops. Without getting crazy with charge card, those 6 piston jobs can get real pricey and what you have to say to yourself, am I really going to need those ??
My 14 Chrysler 6.4 SRT 300 has 6 piston front and 4 piston on back Brembos, like wow , that 4500 pound car does stop with all that abs stuff . It gives you a false sense of confidence.
Might have a mini heart attack if I priced a set out for use on street rods.
mike lynch
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A little progress today. Got the half shafts in after several trips to the parts store for the CORRECT u-joints. Now the rear track width should be set. Haven't measured yet, 100 degrees and tired so it will wait 'till tomorrow. Not sure if I'm going to use the OEM dog bones or not. Took those to the sandblaster on the way home. Pick them up tomorrow and decide if I'll use them or not. If I do use them they must be positioned exactly but if I make an adjustable set ballpark is fine. Unlike a set of 4 bars they don't do much except keep the knuckle/hub aligned, no torque on them. Note the angle of the halfshafts running back a bit. The hub is set back 1/2 inch so that the u-joints will work and not just set there and wear out. Lost one u-joint strap bolt. Looked for it for a day and a half and found it screwed into the center section output shaft where it's suppose to be! Oh yeah, the bracket on the snout of the center section is temporary.
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Here are the 4 brake pads that go on the back. Talk about small. I'll see if they live up to what I need before doing any conversion...(read $$$$). Cost money to stop.
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As with any new project there must be redesigns. Moved the front crossmember to make room for the air bags. Also made brackets for the dog bones and added a few shims "just in case". The basic unit is now mounted and all that remains is to design and make the air bag mounts. Ordered the bags today.
Actually the process is quite simple. If using the original transverse spring there would only be bat wing mounts and dog bone mounts to make. Most of my time has been leveling, squaring, measuring and shimming.
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Got the airbags last night and worked on making mounts today. Five hours later I had one mount made and tacked in place. Good thing I'm not charging myself by the hour. Forgot to take the camera to the shop but Ill try to get a few shots of the bags tomorrow. Is anyone still following this thread?
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yes I am !!!!!!!!!!!!!! been trying to find a picture in my picture files of air bag installed on vette rear very well done.
mike lynch
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Yup still following. Keep up the good work!
Tom
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Made a little progress today. The bag mounts are tacked together and one is mounted in place. Have not added the gussets yet because I want to make sure things work and nothing is in the way. Note the bags are lots smaller than I expected. They are 4" wide and 7" long. Range is 3.4 to 9 inches. Because of the small volume they may give a choppy ride. If so I can add an expansion tank for more air volume. The bags I have on the '39 now are 6" in diameter and double convoluted. Nice to have the room for the bags but what good is that if the ride sucks.
Went to tighten the axle nuts today and the axles locked up. Think I have a seal on the wrong side of the knuckle. Anything to slow the process down.
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Seems to me you are motoring right along! Looks good too.
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YEP.. Somebody's gotta keep an eye on you. Looking good RON
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Yes sir..following ....keep it coming
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Well, got far enough along today to air load the bags and see what happens. Lesson #1, don't rely on tack welds alone, put gussets in like should be done even with no body weight.
Two shots, one up and the other down. Could go about 1" higher and several inches lower but not enough weight to collapse the bags.
What's left? Got to figure out something for shocks. Trying to balance the load on the knuckles so looking for a way to mount them on back.
Have to make a limiter for up and down (bump stops).
Still looking for OEM Corvette 17" rims for fitment under the fenders. Sixteen inch rims would clear the calipers I THINK but there may be an upgrade to C5 brakes and I don't want to end up with two sets of rims ($$$).
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Finishing up a few loose ends. Installed the bump stops and limiter brackets. Put a caliper on for looks and locating the shocks. Running out of room back there so it appears I'll have to slant the shocks forward about 35 degrees which will decrease efficiency to about 55 percent. Certainly not what I wanted and even looked into cantilever the shocks. Too bad they don't make an updated version of the knee action shock.
Reason I put the caliper on was to see if a 15 inch wheel would fit and it does BUT I need a ton of backspacing to tuck the wheel inside the fender well. The OEM Corvette wheel has an offset of 56mm which brings the spokes (sawblades) out to about flush with the outside of the rim. Would like to get hold of a 'Vette rim for test. Getting a set of steel rims may be out because of all the backspacing I need.
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http://thewheelsmith.net/
these guys might be able to help you out
still think you need to narrow the rear end to what width you need.
mike lynch
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Mike, can't really narrow much more than about 1" on either side due to he knuckle hitting the batwing mount. Could narrow the bat wing itself, then narrow the half shafts but then the dog bones no longer fit so would have to narrow the frame...and so it goes. At some point I have to draw the line. Cost of narrowing vs a proper wheel offset/backspacing is my balancing act. Note that the OEM 'Vette offset is such that the spokes are out next to the outer edge of the wheel. Good news is that the wheel will not show, i.e. he skirts will cover any ugly so steel or OEM makes no difference, just cost. Now add in the tiny (did I say tiny?) rear brakes here is then next problem. At some point I may want to add some real brakes to the rear which would require more clearance for the rims. That's why I'm looking at 17" rims, to clear C5/C6 or Wilwood calipers. I've checked, 15" will clear, 16" is better but an odd size so on to 17". With each increase there is also an increase in height or a decrease in sidewall. Geeze...I got a headache! On to Canadian Mist to see if I can figure this out...thanks Mike, your fault!
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would have been easier to install a 1961--1986 jaguar rear end , inboard disc brakes, easy to narrow lower control arms and half shafts can be shortened properly using the right method.
Originally my friend brian had a model a 28-29 that he wanted me to install either a jag or keep the vette that was in there . After a lot of reading up it was determined the jaguar was the better choice. Strong dana 44 rear center and a totally independent rear end which the earlier vets were not.
I have jaguar units in my 1935 coupe , my 1935 chev phaeton and the under construction roadster. All are equipted with WILWOOD 4 piston discs.
I always thought the stock vet brakes were more than adequate .
You will get the vet rear sorted out , your a never say die guy.
mike
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Times, they are a changin'. Way back when there was only a Jag I.R.S. unit but today there are many to chose from like Camaro, GTO, Mustang, BMW, Subaru...list goes on. The cost of coilovers for a Jag is $200 on up. That means at least $800 for the coilovers alone. Get them set up for a nice ride and bingo...the whole famdamly piles in. Crawl under and adjust all four? I'll push the button and air up the bags. My Willys had coil overs and left me walking twice, that's why I moved on to air bags.
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if you bought a jag rear it would come with coils and shocks. There are 3 spring weights for various jags Xke being lightest and sedans the heavyiest. The 1/2" thick sedan coils and shocks easiest to find and not a problem. Lot harder finding the XKE shocks and coils.
I use the factory shocks non adjustable. Ride height is determined by snow white chassis designed slider system . None of those other rears you mention would get anybody looking at them and cost might get prohibitive..........air bags ..........HIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIISSSSSSSSSS easy way out
mike
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Nothing working quite right! Took the pesky seal out of the knuckle and now the dog bones come inside the frame by 3/8". Going to make my own adjustable dog bones with heims joints (left and right threads). During research I also discovered that a '93 Camaro used a 16" X 8" rim with a 6 3/4" backspacing. Found one on line for $70 with free shipping. Mounted it today on my mock up and, afer doing the math it's going to be damn close. From inside fender to inside fender is 70". Rear end mounting face to face is 63 1/2". Allowing for metal thickness on the hub it leaves me with just about 1" rim to fender clearance on each side. Given the tire sidewall bulge that may be to close. I do have about 1" on the inside that I could use by narrowing each half shaft by 1". That would bring the dog bones into the middle of the frame and more of the knuckle hardware would also have to be narrowed.
On a side note, local guy was selling a GTO I.R.S. for $400 but it did not lend itself to narrowing. I also saw a late model (2015 I think) Mustang I.R.S. for $600. There was a late model Jag rear that uses struts and not a box full of coilovers for $500. Note that all dunptrucks, semis, motorhomes etc use air bags...pissssssssssssssss!
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if you have a large enough sway bar 15/16 ---1" your not going to get any body roll into the quarter panels wheel wells.
mike
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Well here it is with the rims on. Outside to outside of the rims is 68 inches and I THINK that there is 70" fender to fender. Would really like to narrow 1 inch on each side to ensure room for tire bulge and the fender skirts. Still have to build the dog bones and then it's just wait for cold weather to take the car down for the install. As much as I've tried to think of everything I'm sure there will be snags during the install.
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Had a bright idea last night compliments of Canadian Mist! Why not get the tires that I want and mount them on the rims and put them on the car as it sits now (with the 8.8)? Measure the hub to hub on the 8.8 and the 'Vette, add the difference to the tires once mounted and see if they fit. Actually seeing the fit is much better than "in theory they should fit".
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Lol I got a kick out of your post. :D Dad use to tell me " Slow down...your way over thinking this" ;D
Friend of mine years ago did as you are in rear end install, only with a C3 set up. ('70 Chevy short bed) I would check on it ever couple days when I was in town. Really hurt my brain looking at all the angles and degrees he had skeched down for all the mount points.
When I was trying to figure out how to do my '34, I had to remember what the 'ol man had said. Got the tape out and realized ... hell the C3 Vette rear frame would just fit as is. Bobbed it off complete and welded it on. No brain explosion at all! ;D
Great job your doing on yours, sure looks good. Way above my pay grade!
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Talk about crash and burn! Did anyone notice my last post about putting the new tires on the Camaro rims and mounting them on the 8.8 axle? I got all the way to the car and was about to lift the tire onto the studs when it hit me...Ford axle, GM rim, ain't going to fit. Well, it went downhill from there. Nice to have all the parts in one place and was able to do some accurate measuring. Tires outside to outside mounted on the C4 mockup is 69 inches. Inside fender to fender is 70 inches. In my mind this is to close which means narrowing the half shafts 1" on each side. Getting the mock up on the floor, leveling it and measuring frame to ground I think I'm about (at least) two inches to high. To lower the car I can move the pumpkin up to the floorboard which is 5.5 inches. This will require major mods to the frame rails. I'm going out in the garage now, drink a few brews and wait for a flash of brilliance.
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I'm sorry 39delux. It's easy for me to say but, back to the drawing board. By the looks of your work there is no question that you'll figure it out, that's for sure.
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Sometimes a few brews and staring at it for an hour or two will help ;)
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whatever that bracketry on the outside of the frame is behind tire, gotta go some where else, otherwise first lean of frame and tires are toast.
You need a sway bar in the 7/8 --1" thickness to stop any body roll. SCHROEDER makes custom splined sway bars in a width you specify.
I have a .900 thickness on my 35 chevy coupe with jag with tires 1/2" away from frame, per side with no problems.
mike lynch
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Gathering all the parts and about read to start the real swap. Bat wing needs to be narrowed by 1" as well as the half shafts. This means the Strut Rods need to be shortened too. They are at the machine shop/welder now. For a little more safety I am building wooden stands for the front wheels. Think they will be a little more stable while removing the rear end and shaking the car a bunch.
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Looks like hotrod Jenga! ;)
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And so it begins, got it up in the air and starting to strip everything. All went well 'till I upended the gas tank and found out my gas gauge is off just a bit. Though I had a little less than 1/4 tank but it spilled a couple of gallons when it landed and still dumped out about 8 more! More planning, drawing lines on the floor and frame to locate the pumpkin. Cooler weather in the AM and golf may get in the way.
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very nice soft white pearl tone paint. Tail lights really suit the body design. Fulton style sun visor really suits this body style
mike-------------------HAIRBALL
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Reaching the point of no return. Cut the floor pan out to get access to the upper bag mounts. They are directly in the way for a cross member to support the pumpkin. Took three days to clear everything around the rear part of the frame. Right now it looks like I will NOT have to tub the wells. Time will tell. Next up is positioning the pumpkin which will dictate the ride height. Measure twice and cut once or in my case measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk and cut with an axe.
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Looks like things are out of the way and it's time to start putting things back together. Made a cradle for the pumpkin so that I can jockey it around and adjust the angle. Once that is in place where I think the height should be then make and weld brackets for the nose and bat wing. This will define the ride height and driveshaft angle. The engine is two degrees down so the pumpkin will need to be set at two degrees up.
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Moving along a little. Got the pumpkin and bat wing mounted. Now I have to find someone with a 200+foot pound torque wrench so that I can torque the axle nut (170). Want to do that before setting the knuckle in place and connecting the half shafts. Worried about where the dog bones will meet up with the frame. May have to do major frame renovations. The cradle that I made for the pumpkin to set in was my best friend while centering and setting the pinion angle.
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Nice progress! Thanks for posting.
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Thanks for the kind words...keeps me going. Please don't look to hard at the welds. Welding the center bushing in was a b...h because it's about 4 feet off the floor, dark and I can't get next to it with a helmet on. Got my body bent at a 45 degree angle to reach, arms reaching out and abs on fire. Good news is that the torque wants to push the pinion up and not down. Having nightmares about my measurements being off. If one was building a 30s, 40s, or 50s pickup this swap would be a snap. Frame rails could be adjusted such that the track is stock to a 'vette and still be tucked under the fenders. Hot ticket would be to get a C4 'Vette front and rear suspension. I think the price would work out cheaper than an aftermarket I.F.S. and rear end with suspension. Depends on how much fab you want/can do yourself.
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Before putting the half shafts and knuckles in I wanted to torque the axle bolts. The axle nuts are torqued to 170lbs and I just don't have the wrench that goes that high OR the a$$ to pull it. Found a one inch drive 600 lbs torque wench that did the job with one hand. Right tool for the right job.
Made another stand for the knuckle and slid the left side assembly onto the pumpkin and...and...nothing fits! The knuckle is under the frame and the dog bones come into the middle of the frame. I must have had a defective tape measure. Only solution that I can think of is to use the 2" X 3" frame rails that I made earlier. Will need to scab them in about one inch inside the existing rails, then cut the originals out. Must make sure the frame is stable when I do this.
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Final plan is to notch the frame to get clearance for the knuckle and get the rear of the car lower. Made a piece to scab in over the existing frame over the axle. Weld the new piece in, then cut out 2 1/2" of the original frame. More grinding...hate that.
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Well, here is the latest. Bags installed and tested...didn't work! Turns out the bags are to small for the job but were the ones recommended by the bag Co. in Az. Of course they would not refund.
Made new brackets for the bags I was using before the swap (2500# double). Tested them today and they work. Why shouldn't they, worked before. Due to the camber change during the full range from up to down I now have to cut out the inner fender wells. Last step is to install shocks. Still trying to figure that out.
Once everything is operating correctly then blow it apart and paint. Then sheet metal work, brake lines, gas line and e-brake. Should be done this weekend...not.
Picture of the bags at ride height.
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your definitely having an adventure.
mike..........HAIRBALL
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Trial and error....cut, weld, repeat. Seriously, it's looking good, stay at it!
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Starting on the sheet metal. Here is day two on the trunk. Forgot to take pictures of the support for the tin. Welded in some half inch square tubing to give more support for the heavy luggage on long trips (wishful thinking). As you can see the tubs have already been done. Got to do some floor under the rear seat too. Researching seam sealers now. Cost of a tube runs $17 and up. Got to do both sides of each seam so I'll need a LOT!
Still have to run the brake lines, fuel line and e-cables. Then it's blow everything apart, paint and reassemble.
One last point. Think I'll leave the 2.73 gears for now and reprogram the computer. Much cheaper than gear change ($1000) and then find out the whole swap is a bust!
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2.73 rear gears , I smell an attempt a the land speed record on your local freeway.
mike ................HAIRBALL
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Getting the trunk area all closed up. Just need one more piece on the left side and a cover for the fuel pump. What you don't see is the rear seat area. The floor there has more bends and crooks that a Washington lawyer.
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Looking great! That's a lot of fab work there! Thanks for posting.
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Well, the trunk area is done. Easy enough, all flat sheet metal. Now for the back seat area. There isn't a flat spot there. Not sure how I'll do it yet but thinking about cutting just about everything out and start all over. Everything would be square bends where needed.
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That's a lot of pieces, lookin good man. Your getting down to the short strokes.
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Lots of metal, bending, welding. Looks great!!
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looking good
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More sheet metal progress today. Got the covers for the pump and gauge made and installed in the trunk. Cut the rest of the floor under the back seat out and bent a major floor piece. still have to add some stiffeners to it before welding in place. Took two hours just to cut the covers, layout, drill and tap. The under seat piece also took several hours because I bent up a 2" wide strip to ensure proper fit when I bent the large piece.
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Getting close to finishing the sheet metal. Added a few stiffeners to the metal under the rear seat. Should finish this today and add seam sealer. Once that's done I'll prime, paint and add undercoating.
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A lot of top notch work...looks good
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Looks great 39delux! A little time consuming, eh?
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This project has taken me longer than building a whole frame for the '39. Today was blow it apart to seal and paint. Took several months putting the rear end in and only 20 minutes to get it out. Will pain the top and bottom of the new sheet metal with Rustoleum oil based then undercoat just the bottom side. Seam seal on both sides first. Once everything is painted then the gas tank goes back in (after the rear end) and run the fuel, brake and e-brake lines. Still have to do the driveshaft but I think that's just a case of changing the rear u-joint, length is OK the way it is.
Thanks for the kind words.
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Nice work! ;D
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After painting the trunk floor and under the back seat I will lay down some sound/heat material and carpet over tat in the trunk. Question is: do I need more sound material under the seat and or under the trunk carpet? If so, what?
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Here's what I used. I put it on the floors and inside trunk, doors, firewall, quarter panels and roof, basically covered the whole interior. I bought it from Lowes, it's much cheaper than Dynomat, and I think it has been great. No problems.
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I used the same thing, you can get it in a 36" x 100' roll also, it comes in gray, white or aluminum color. There is no smell after installation.
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A little progress. Chopper I did get a roll of the stuff from Lowes. Applied it under the seat area, wheel tubs and seams in the trunk. Over the top of that I'll put EZ Cool. I've used EZ Cool before and it really works well for cutting down heat. Unlike the bubble wrap this mat will not pop bubbles so using it on the floor is good.
Installed the gas tank yesterday and started on the brake lines. Only have a short run for the brake lines but it's a pain due to make a bend, crawl under the car, get back out, make another bend...repeat.
Broke down and ordered a ring and pinion set. Though I had 2.73 gears but turns out the are 2.59 (ouch). Ordered 3.54 to the tune of $400. Can't seem to find anyone who has the gear install kit.
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That's really coming together nicely! I never used EZ Cool, I'll have to check it out.
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Lookin good! Should be nice and quiet back there.
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Before I started this project the car had zero rattles and was very quiet for an older car. There was wind noise because of the side window set-back. Hope to get back to that standard.
Went to plumb the brakes and discovered the 1993 brake flex hoses are bubble flair. Just one more thing to hold me up a day or two. Will get a stick of 3/16 bubble flair, cut it in two and double flair one end of each to connect to my existing brake line.
Looking for a place to mount the fuel filter regulator. With the rear end out it looks like I have a ton of room but I'm sure wherever it's mounted will be in the way of something.
Wondering if the fuel pump will work. Been setting for three months and may be gummed up. Doesn't take much to burn a pump up. Don't know of any way to clean the pump so it's a case of let her rip and if it does smoke just buy a new one.
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Detour to change the gear ratio. Could not find anyone local that wanted to do this job so it is up to me. Original gears were 2.59 and I'm putting in 3.54. Not a popular swap so the price of the gears is about double of, say a 9" Ford. Got Richmond gears and they are made in Italy!!!!! By the way, changing gears is one of two things I said I would not do, the other being a transmission. I'm a slow worker when it comes to this new stuff so it took all day to disassemble the carrier. Will be using new bearings/seals but bagging all the old stuff just to refer back "just in case". This carrier does not use a crush washer so it requires multiple assembles to check the gear pattern. Will hog out the old bearings a bit so they slip on and then, hopefully, when I press on the new bearing it will be right.
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I don't like doing rear ends. I get a bit impatient especially with the ring and pinion set up. I just inherited a tool set that should make it easier. We'll see, I have to do a gear change in the Dana 44 for my roadster.
Let us know how this goes.
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Got all the old bearings off in one piece except the inner pinion which exploded the cage, race still on the old pinion. Managed to hog out the old bearings so they just drop on which will make life much easier setting the gears up. Used the new pinion inner bearing for setup (hogged it out) and will buy a new Timken for final assembly. Got the new ring gear on an torqued this afternoon. The stub shaft seals were hard to get out but the new ones pressed in easy. Tried to drive them on with a big socket and that did not work. Always one side popped up, sorta like playing wack-a-mole. Press took 30 seconds. If the new pinion inner bearing is available locally I'll be able to set things up tomorrow. Wish me luck!
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39 deluxe...............I know exactly what your going thru and your older than me. We both need hoists, getting down is one thing , getting up is another whole adventure. I went from 275 down to 212 and its still difficult.
I cannot do it and have to have a guy with a hoist do the undercar work on the TUB.
mike ..............HAIRBALL,
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Gear change complete (right I hope!). Took several days and I never want to do it again. Was 2.59 and now 3.54. Only about $700 counting gears and install kit. Guess they figure Corvette owners have the bucks.
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Old is on the top.
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Getting things back where they are suppose to be. Left air bag in place and fuel line piped. Having a hard time putting the calipers on. Piston is retracted and still have to pound the caliper on. Way to tight and can't figure why...yet.
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Great progress. You'll figure out the tight caliper thing. Keep at it!
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Getting things back where they are suppose to be. Left air bag in place and fuel line piped. Having a hard time putting the calipers on. Piston is retracted and still have to pound the caliper on. Way to tight and can't figure why...yet.
wrong thickness of rotor or wrong brake pads, is what U should look at.
How is the rotor going to turn, if the brake pads are so tight, only supposed to be loosely fitting enough so wheels can easily turn.
mike..........HAIRBALL
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Mike, that's exactly what happened, wrong rotors that are to thick. Ordered new ones from Rock Auto at 2 PM on Wed. and they arrived Thursday! Who said I live in the middle of nowhere (mostly correct).
Getting the loose ends wrapped up such as running the battery cables and finishing the brake lines. Very time consuming. Fitted the mufflers into place and guess what...they don't fit anymore. Will have to get smaller ones. I'm old and don't want the noise.
Took the driveshaft to the machine shop. Length was correct, just needed a u-joint on the back to match the 'Vette. Guy sold me a u-joint with two different size cups that fit both the rear end and drive shaft. Cheap solution...only one so far!
Going to need a new set of shocks, ones I got don't match the minimum/max stroke. Several days of searching the net. I think Monroe has a site listing all shocks with types of fittings and stroke.
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get some of those musicians soft ear plugs and kill the noise...........or install killer sterio with subwoofer to overpower the exhaust...........lmao.
story.......back in 2000 I installed new zz4-350 motor , pro car headers, stainless exhaust and stainless specialties tube mufflers. When first fired up in garage, shook the eves and rattled them big time. Driving around town this thing was LOUD to point of deafening at town speed. Running a 700R4 without gear indicator. Go to cruise nite and holy crap the thing is roaring at 50 mph. On way back I moved the shifter forward and hey, it went into another gear.......4th. Revs dropped to 2000 rpm, went below that and growls until you get back to 2000 rpm.
Well , let me tell you that roar turned into a purr. I geared slowed it down for a small town to pass thru and back to the roar in 3rd.........get it up to 50 and shift into 4th and like magic the sound level is cut in half. That was 20 years ago and I still love the bark it makes on fire up
So don't change muffs until you drive car at hwy speed and 2000 + up revs
mike.............HAIRBALL
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IT LIVES! Finally got things like the exhaust together enough to start the car and run it thru the gears (on the jack stands). No ugly noises...yet. Two problems yet to solve. Got a massive brake fluid leak which didn't show itself until the engine was running. One of the air bags has a leak, had to order another. The leak was tracked back to...me! Think I caused the bag to come unlaminated from the steel end piece by chucking it in a vise to tighten the air line.
Battery was just about dead, only turned over once (very slow) and fired right up.
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Great news! Won't be long and you'll be driving it!
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Glad your about there. That sounds like something I would do with the bags. ;)
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Thanks guys, hope the rocky road is about over.
Question: How close to the mufflers is it safe to run the gas line? My gas line is the new nylon type.
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Sounds like you are shaking out the bugs, won't be long now! My thought would be 4-5 inches on the fuel line, but that's just my guess
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Drove it home from the shop today, about 5 miles. Didn't get much above 50 MPH and there is a vibration somewhere. It's while under power or coast. No vibes while maintaining speed. Don't think it's the wheels/tires and the driveshaft is the one I used before the swap. When I got home noticed the wheels had 4 degrees negative camber (in at the top). I'll adjust that out and see if it makes a difference.
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Today I adjusted the camber to zero and took it for a short spin. No vibration! Can't believe that just 4 degrees would cause that. Still have to take it to a shop and have the whole thing aligned.
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Great to hear! I love it when the solution is simple.
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Sounds like you have mastered your project..awesome job with outstanding results
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Well, that's good news, simple fix. What did you use to check the caster
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What did I use to check the caster you ask...I used my cell phone! Got a free level app on the phone and it works great. Alternative is to use a gravity type angle finder which has sketchy needle movements and hard to read or use a bubble type level and get back to zero for accurate readings OR get a digital level ($$$$). Phone app was free, phone fits where other devices are to big AND the display numbers are big! If you want to install the app there are several things you must know. First, are you a member of the Flat Earth Society? If you get that app everything is zero, or flat. Setting up a pinion angle is easy, always zero! Second, if you have a dial phone you will run into two problems. First the phone is curved so it's hard to fie the exact "sweet" spot to get a proper reading. Second is the length of the cord, can it reach from the kitchen wall to the shop? Don't ya just love beer nights?
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39, glad you've got that straighten out! You'll be back cruising before summer.
I looked up those level apps, pretty cool. I down loaded one, stuck it up to my rears, left still has half shaft out of it and is sitting at -5. Right was at +1.5 with out the weight in the car.
I give all my Beeline gauges to my friend couple years ago, so this will come in handy to get in the ball park to take to alignment shop when the time comes. 😁
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A level app...….doesn't get much simpler than that. Thanks!
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Going to call it done at this point. Took it to the alignment shop this morning. Camber was spot on on one side and 1 degree off on the other. Told him I used my cell phone to set it. Toe was another story. One side was within 1 degree and the other off scale. After setting the tow we pulled a measurement on the wheelbase. Off by 3/4 inch and he said it was most likely caused by the bad toe on one side. Got the wheelbase within 1/4" and I'm happy. Did bottom on one shock on the way to the shop this morning. Got a shorter set of shocks to put on which should solve that problem. Ride seems to be softer and not much body roll in the corners. Sway bar on front only. The sway bar that came with the rear end is rather small and more of a suggestion. Once I get the shocks and skirts on, one last picture. Still have to get exhaust from mufflers back and redo the interior. Maybe start a thread on the interior, what do you think?
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Glad you got it driving! Looking forward to a picture of it sitting on the ground. An interior thread would be nice. That would really complete it.
Tom
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Yea 39delux, lets see how you do it. Nice to see you got it moving straight.
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Exhaust is scheduled for Sat. I ordered carpet samples last Sat. but still don't have them. Already have samples of the material and color that I'll use for the interior. Right now the interior is "go with anything grey" and I'm changing it to blue. Discovered they don't many carpets in blue. Everything but blue. Getting a few marine samples, like the rubber backed because it contours well and wears well. Due to the frame reroute the back seat is a bit smaller but who goes there anyway. The center section of the seat will be cloth with a diamond pattern and blue vinyl around it. Of course this will be carried to the front seats as well. As far as the design on the doors and quarter panels, not sure yet. May get the seats finished and installed, then step back and see what hits me. Also not sure if I'll use piping or not and if I do what color.
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looking good, what are you using for your panels?
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I use various woods. The seat bottom is 1" sanded plywood, the partition is 1/2" MDF and the back of the seat will also be 1/2" MDF. Various thicknesses and density foams will be used to construct the seat. As far as the door and quarter panels go I use the thin fiberglass sheets that are used for showers. I use it because it's easy to work with and will not break down if it gets wet. I think a 4" X 8' sheet at Lowes is about $35.
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I like it already, can't wait to see how it progresses.
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Took my life in my hands today and went to the steel store and got a stick of 1/2" square tubing that I'll use for the arm rest and also went by Lowes and got a sheet of fiberglass shower liner. The liner is used to make panels which I'll have to make everything in the back of the car (quarters, arm rest). Must put the quarter panels in first, then build the arm rest, cover those and then move to the seat because there must be room for the vinyl to fold over the sides.
Ordered the material for the interior. Cloth, vinyl, carpet, scrim, seat foam and windlace rod. Little over $500.
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Great start!
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Got one of the arm rest framework done. Picture later. Got the carpet, vinyl, cloth, scrim, foam, landau foam and windlace core today. Foams were vacuum packed, had to open and let them relax for a day or so. In the meantime I gutted the interior getting ready for the carpet. Found some surface rust on the floorpan so scraped it and painted with rust converter. Tomorrow I'll paint it with a layer of Rustoleum oil base. The pan had bubble wrap liquid nailed to the floor and a layer of jute over that. Now, my question is: What should I put down on the floor under the carpet? I do have a roll of open cell foam that is aluminum foil on both sides. I've used it on the toeboard and it works real good killing heat. What about the Lowes rubberized flashing, then the foil clad foam and carpet on top of that? Do away with the jute altogether.
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I used the rubberized roll of foil flashing from lowes and carpet insulation over that.
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Yes, got a roll of it today. Floor is painted and will be ready for sound/heat layer tomorrow.
Next question/poll. What color boarder should I use on the carpet? Here is a picture of a sample with off white and the blue vinyl I will be using on the seats. Keep in mind the car is painted white. Short piece on the end with exposed thread is out.
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I'd vote for the white with a blue thread stitching it together.
Tom
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Just me..but blue on blue? ;)
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I like the blue because it matches the seats. (If your seats were white, I would choose white).
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Thanks for the inputs, kind of split just like on the home front. Stitching won't show on the carpet BUT will show on the seats and door cards. Torn between using a blue thread or be bold with white. All inputs welcome.
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I was going to say something about the stitching...I lean toward blue thread only because if my stitching got a bit off center it would be less noticeable? ;)
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OK been working on the carpet boarder. Didn't like the puffy look of the vinyl as pictured above. Took a nap and thought about it. Shaved a little off the edge, then sewed the vinyl on. Much flatter and a little more appealing to the eye. Also used blue (teal, because it's what I have) thread. What do ya think?
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Looks great......
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The TEAL blue/green is a tough color to go right with anything, but as you used it as a high light thread works great.
mike lynch HAIRBALL
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Looks like it belongs.
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I like it :D
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That looks good.
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I think the blue and shade difference in the edging look good, and the last edging just around the end. Never did like the puffy style. Dad had a custom interior guy do the inside of his '48 Ford conv in red and white. He just told the guy do what you think, thats my color choice. Red carpet with puffy white edging, seats were red inserts with white pipping and white outers. Yuck!
The ones that bothered me was Gm in the 70s. Nova ,Camaro/Fire, Chevelles, Monte"s with consoles. They were usually all blue, red, saddle seats dash console door panels dash etc. The colors never really matched close to each other and looked odd.
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Everything snowballs! Started working on the back seat and couldn't do that until the carpet is in. Had to remove the windlace, then came the headliner. Kind of hoping the bumper bolts are safe. Anyway, got the carpet in today. Because of the social distancing had to do the brightwork around the pedal and column by myself. Very difficult being on both sides of the firewall at once. Little more work left on the rear seat armrest/cup holder, then duplicate it for the other side. Pulled the overhead console out, it's one of those from a Chrysler van. Don't want to put that back up BUT the price of street rod consoles are out of sight. May have to make my own.
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I like it! Looks great!
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Do look great and I bet the car will be tight and solid when done.
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That carpet and welting looks great. I don't have a commercial sewing machine, so when I did my carpet I used a fabric welting that gets hot glued onto the back of the carpet. ::) Those back seat armrests look solid!
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Thanks for the kind comments. Side note, if someone wants to do their own upholstery you can buy a portable walking foot machine (REX) for about $300 new. Local flea board has one for sale for $200. Feedback some say it does the job like big brother machines just a smaller throat.
Have a problem caused by the Covid-19. Next step is to put up the headliner. It is not supported by bows but will be glued to Landau top foam that is sculptured. Due to social distancing I will be doing this alone. It will go up in two halves, left and right. Each piece is 4" wide and 8' long. Can anyone come up with ideas on how to do this without going mad?
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Not sure what your procedure is...but as an idea I have seen where they wax the "outside of the roof" and lay down fiberglass mat onto the roof. Once cured they remove it as a panel, then make it fit the inside, glue foam and/headliner in it and install.
Not sure if you are following me...but the newly created fiberglass panel may need to have a cross cut(s) and glassed back together so it fits inside the car.
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Sorry, didn't make myself clear. Solid part of the headliner is already in along with the Landau foam, just need to cover it with the fabric. I'm using the DAP glue and a cheap Harbor Freight gun to spray it with. Once the two surfaces come together, right or not you're done. Working upside down is not one of my assets. Of course fabric is a bit stretchy so if it gets a little out of shape there WILL be a wrinkle. Best idea I can come up with is to set the car on it's roof but might mar the paint.
Ed, I've seen that done, cast a fiberglass liner on top of the car. Yes, usually needs to be cut to get it inside. The guy I saw do it used mold release and the fiberglass popped right off. My luck the two would become one!
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I have done a couple of foam liners in GM trucks, I was able to remove the foam headliner, then peel off the cloth material and using 3M 77 ...got some professional results. BUT that's with the foam liner out of the truck..not working overhead like you are doing.
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39delux, I feel your pain! When I installed the panel for my headliner I had to do it in two pieces. Then I fiberglassed and bondo'd the seam. Then I worked upside down to install the padding and then vinyl on top of that. Mine turned out great. If you can't find another solution, just have patience, it will turn out great too!
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So I had a wrinkle in the back part of the compound curve next to the rear window. As I pulled out the headliner material some of the Landau foam and some of the backing came too. Time to regroup! Got to thinking (oh-oh) why not go back with the original style that uses bows. Started to pull down the existing contour base. It was held up with:staples, liquid nails, slotted screws, phillips screws, pop rivets and horse spit I think. The original bows were there and bailing wired to the upside down den (1960) panel boards. Got to clean everything up and map out panels to sew. Maybe need new tack strips too. Got one question...How is the HELL did I end up here by putting an I.R.S under the car? Gotta love Canadian Mist.
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Yikes!!!....haha, I've heard of snowballing, but how you got from I.R.S. to headliner? :o Stick with it, you know it's worth it.
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Had to make one bow. Lined up the others and just made one to fit between them. I can put the bows in which will give me a pattern of each section BUT the bows are held in by one screw on each side which means the bows have several inches of travel. Of course the travel affects the size and shape of each panel. What I need is the factory pattern. I say "factory pattern" because there are several companies offering headliners made to "factory pattern". Where did they get that? Does anyone know where I could get a "factory Pattern"? Or does someone have a '39 with factory headliner that would be willing to trace the outline of each panel? Thanks...
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Here are two examples of the panel seams. Which do you like best, plain or piped?
Ran into another problem. I don't have the headliner retaining strips that go down the side of the car. These strips are what the headliner tuck into above the windlace. Anyone have one laying around?
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Here’s a supply Company that I use!
Or Possibly a JoAnns craft supplies might carry what you are looking for!
Oh just my thoughts I like the your sample on the right plus and added touch would be to do a double stitch ! Just some thoughts!
RoarsRods
https://www.miamicorp.com/
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Piped . That is a great choice of material for a headliner. Ron
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I like the piping, but my preference would be without the piping.....I'm plain and boring, I like vanilla ice cream.
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1 vote for the piping from me.
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Keep the votes coming. Stuff the ballot box!
Finally found a headliner retaining strip out of a 51 Chevy. Of course it's the wrong shape. Also found out the '39 didn't use headliner retaining strips. Stumbled on "wire-on" a form of windlace that has wire in it and folds over itself. A newer version is called Hidem Gimp. Learning more all the time.
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I just watched a video on Hidem Gimp, that stuff looks nice and clean, and a real time saver
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During the Caronavirus (in my case coorsvirus) I got plenty of time but the gimp stuff looks like it will solve the staple issue. Made a small sample from the vinyl color I will be using and it went well. Had to go to Harbor Freight for yet another stapler with a long snout to get in the middle of the "gimp". They were sold out! Big run on honeydo tools. Ordered on line: question is, will the stapler come first or the golf course open???
Headliner prototype is up and, well, not going well. Needs to be more taught in all directions. Front to back need to be shorter and then the sides should fall into place. Maybe I can get a photo of the proto so that others can made a decision: Covid-19 or headliner.
Here is a sample of what I want for panel inserts. Settled on the size of diamond and thread color for the diamonds. Now the insert binding color. Blue seems a little more "finished" where the white bangs it out more. Votes?
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I vote for the blue, but I am a "less is more", vanilla guy.
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Is it me..I don't see a difference ???
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I vote for the blue also! Keeps it clean and simple! Just my thoughts!
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I vote for blue. Ed, if yoy look at the binding, one side has white thread the other has blue in both pictures.
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Blue won! Here are the first two pieces, quarter and arm rest. Still have to make a pad for the arm rest. Glue spray guns have been holding me back. I had heard that a gravity feed gun would not work with the glue so I got a cheapo siphon gun and it didn't work. Then I got a bright idea, one of those electric jobs that sprays Latex. That didn't work and a bit*h to clean. Researched and got a cheapo gravity gun ($14). Works like a charm.
Just found out the golf course will be open tomorrow, already got a tee time for 8:30 AM. And so ends the upholstery blitz.
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Looks great! Enjoy Tee Time!
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Looks good man! Your getting closer.🙂
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That turned out real nice. I like the way you incorporated the seatbelt.
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your moving right along
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Quick pics of the sewing for the passenger side armrest. Pink sew foam on back and finished cloth diamond pattern. Just need to sew piping and small piece of vinyl on the bottom to match the other side and I can move on to the seat or headliner.
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WOW looks awesome! Great work 39delux! It’s funny that your industrial sewing machine table looks like the same model as mine! Can’t wait to see it all completed and in your car! RoarsRods
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Very nice, keep that machine buzzing...
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Little work on the headliner and package tray. Was really worried about the headliner in the sail area but it finally came together. Tuff working over my shoulder or head cocked to one side. Today was making the tray cover, getting smarter but still takes a while. Would like to have an overhead console but nothing to attach it to. Still working on making something that will have a couple of map lights and a small cubby hole for legal papers.
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Wow looks great! Nice work!!
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Working on seats is hard enough...working overhead must be giving you neck aches!! Nice work!
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Can't avoid it any longer, got to finish the back seat. This is a dense foam I'm using for the seat bottom and bolsters. I didn't order round bolster foam so I got to make it. Intend to cut bevels on the edges, then smooth a bit with a flapper wheel, then add a cover of 1/2 inch scrim (sew foam) to cap it off. Once it all shaped I'll glue it to the base plywood, then do the covering (how I don't know yet!).
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Seeing the way you handled the quarter and headliner, this seat will be a snap. I can't wait to see it!
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Well, back seat just about done. Back of seat is just resting in place, need to push it down about 3 quarters of an inch and screw it in place. Got to cover the seat riser, then move on to the door panels which will just be an extension of the pattern established.
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Looks great and more comfortable than my living room couch!
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Good job....
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Wow that looks great!
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Awesome!!
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looks comfy
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Only have one door card and one kick panel to do that require glue. Went searching for some good stuff that would work on foam, cloth and vinyl. My test proved out that the cans will not do good on vinyl. Contacted a large upholstery supplier that sells just about everything and they recommended the Landau top glue by the gallon. It's not cheap but about the same as three cans of spray glue and will cover much much more area and adhere to all three of my materials.
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I'm sure you are aware of this stuff...I even use it to keep house wrap anchored down while siding .
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Super-77-Multipurpose-Adhesive/?N=5002385+3293999134&rt=rud
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Yes, Ed I used it several times. A can here cost $10 whereas a gallon of Weldwood cost $42. Hard to compare the two because the Weldwood requires a spray gun and compressor but the spray is a nice web pattern that sort of sits on top of whatever you are gluing. The Weldwood will cover far more area than 4 cans of "off the shelf" spray BUT the cleanup is much easier. With the Weldwood there is no such thing as repositioning, once placed you would most likely rip something getting them apart again. Lots of trade-offs and for a small job or two I would go for the cans. Cans can be stored longer too.
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Well, tried the glue in a gravity feed gun (cheapo HF) and it works just fine. This enabled me to finish the door panel and kick panel. This leaves the seats and sun visors to do. Decided to opt for no cloth on the visors because they would be easier to clean if all vinyl. Again, all new to me so I've been testing the different methods of covering the visor. Tried covering the visor with thin cardboard but the ribs in the cardboard will show thru. Got some HEAVY poster board and it will work BUT the sewing machine does not like two layers of cardboard and 4 layers of vinyl. Sandpapered the edge of the cardboard a bit and the machine hummed right through it. Next up is how to mount the mirrors. Note to self...why? Note the difference in kick panels. Decided to go with all vinyl next to e-brake pedal for ease of cleaning. Also looking for an embroidery show to put a design on the visors.
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You are really doing a nice job, it looks great!
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Trunk is finished. Box to the right covers the battery and suitcase is for spare parts, wiring diagrams, cleaners, etc. Only thing left is the seats. Originally ordered 10 yards of vinyl and it's all gone so I have more on order to start the seats. Bunch of small things to do such as build some sort of glove box. Won't be very deep due to the A/C lines but a place to keep the necessary paper for the car.
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Looks great!
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Thanks. Would have had things a bit further along but fighting the heat. Door faces west so have to get things done in the morning. Even tuff playing golf.
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Car looks awesome!!
113!!!! No car, no golf. TV, A/C, and a cold drink! ;D
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Little off topic but relevant to doing the interior. Sat in one of the patio chairs and it ripped. Same with two others. Time to buy new patio chairs and table. Wait,. why don't I just replace the fabric. Did research and these are "sling chairs". Fabric is tightly woven with a PVC coat. Got 3 yards and some cord to go into the side slots. Sewed everything up and put the chairs together over the weekend. Now if I can only do this with the seats in the '39. Started to take the pass. seat apart and cut each panel out for a pattern. Hope it works out.
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They sure look good as new...….Slingback bucket seats? Haha!
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Covered the plastic seat parts with vinyl. Looks lots better than the scratched up paint. All seat panels are made, just need to sew them together BUT the temp is 110 and the sun shines right into the garage in the afternoon. I'll just wait.
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WOW, Very nice, Jerry
Ron
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Outstanding looking work...you need a sign in front of your shop! ;D
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Nice! ;D
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Got the passenger seat done, ready to install. Learned a few things about sequence of sewing the panels together. Lets recap the entire interior cost. Used Consew 226 $650. Servo motor for same $100. Cloth, foam, vinyl, carpet and thread $700. Time...holly smokes! Therapy...TBT. Satisfaction of doing it myself: priceless. Several years ago I did get a quote on a redo of the interior at $4000. I do not know what this would have looked like when done, colors, theme etc.
For those thinking of taking on a project like this yourself, do it! Most of the sewing could be done on a quality home machine but I highly recommend a walking foot machine. There are portable walking foot machines such as Rex for as low as $300 and will get the job done. In my opinion the walking foot machine is much easier to sew on than your home machine. Hardest is the seats which will require a walking foot machine but nothing else does. Door panels can be done with a regular machine so you could farm out the seats. Many videos on line.
Think this is the end of this thread.
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39Deluxe
You mentioned the "servo motor"... in my opinion that is a must for a nubbie versus the standard clutch motor. I was lucky & picked up my Juki LU563 for $400. It was GOVT non used display model (NOS). Replaced the clutch motor with a servo for about $100...only way to go.
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Those seats look phenomenal! I hope to have the time and patience to learn how to sew like that. Of course, first I need to get a proper sewing machine. I tried on my home machine, but stuff is just too heavy I think.
I did the interior on my coupe, all but the seat, without sewing anything using a few tricks, but nothing beats stitched up panels.
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Keep a lookout on sites like Ebay and Craigslist and sooner or later you will score a machine. Don't expect to steal a machine like Ed did, that's obscene and I'm jealous! Lots of "how to" on line regarding upholstery sewing which will give more confidence and willingness to try it yourself. Albright Supply has been good to me and very quick to send free samples. Figure out what you need in the way of material and their shopping is FREE.
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My buddy just gave me this Mercury walking foot machine. Not a popular model but it works and was free...got it from his sister who is moving...just wanted it out of his garage. Clutch motor but has reverse. Giving it to my son.
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Hey dad you need my address ;)
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I would like to give a shout out to Ron (ChevRon). Ran into a problem and called him to pick his brain. He dropped what he was doing and came down off the mountain to help with a solution. Thanks Ron
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Well that's cool! I wonder if he travels toNevada? ::) ;D
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Jerry.. You are more than welcome anytime.
. Thoroughly enjoyed the visit. Let me know how that works out.
Sixball.. Be glad to help. I would need a little more lead time....Ron
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I'll keep that in mind. ;D It looks like our beautiful warm Fall is about to come to an end and I have been more like the grasshopper the the ant. I still have to clean out the springs and get some winterizing done. Just too old and too lazy. :o