Rusty Bowtie
Miscellaneous => Members Builds - Stocker -Streetrod - Ratrod - LowRider => Topic started by: vette59jdwl on January 15, 2014, 08:46:23 PM
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Not knowing where to put this ,I decided this would be the place. I have scoured many sites over the last 20 or 30 years and seen lots of ideas. I have an idea kicking around in the back of my head and i would like to let it out I would like some opinions.
This is about all the 48/49/50/51 chevy trucks that have been placed on chevy S10 and gmc jimmy.frames
Now how about placing the 32/33 chevy body on such a frame. Is it to high, Is it to long , Is it to wide.The one i am sitting looking at is a jimmy 1992 4 wheel drive v8 700R4 auto,Great running little truck with leather bucked seats and auto push button 4 wheel drive,and a rear leather seat that looks like it would double as a rumble seat lol lol OK
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Sure see a bunch of those trucks on S10 frames and looking good...seen a couple of cars on S10 frames...but they just didn't fit right. For the work required to make it look right..Id rather just start with a 30's frame or box steel and make it fit (clean)the body.
Second option is if you have a 32/33 Chevy coupe body...just sell it to me and it'll be my problem ;)
Ed
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I've seen an early 50's Chevy on S10 frame and an early 50's Ford on a Ranger Frame. I don't know how much work it was to do it. They looked OK. I've never seen a 30's car on one of those frames though. I'm not sure if it would be more work to get it to sit right or just upgrade the original frame like I did. Looking forward to see which way you'll go.
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The first things in making a car look right are wheels and stance. If those things are not right nothing else you do will make the car look good. There are so many cars/trucks that don't have the wheels in the correct place in the fender or wheel well. Full fendered 20s and 30s builds seem to be the easiest to get wrong. Full frame swaps can be tough to get right, "Close Enough" won't do. Those 50s Chevy pickups came from the factory with the rear wheels 1 1/2" too far forward.
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As sixball said anything can be done but the trick is to make to make it look right. Here's an example of wrong
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NOW NOW NOW!!Wrong as rain.I would be proud to drive a 32 chevy coup like that around The only thing i see wrong with that car is it sits a weeee tad high in the saddle for my linking Other than that you best point it out for these tired old eys.I think its kick ASS,maybe i am not looking close enough i better get my glasses on mooseman
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First off let me state that it's just a matter of personal taste. For me the whole car sits too high , the stance is not to my liking and the rear tires are is too far to the rear of the fender opening and are sticking out too far past the lip of the fender. This is more to my liking....Again it's just personal preference.
(http://carnut.com/show/05/pbo/nat1319.jpg)
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That 32 reminds me of the guys that put Camaro or Vette bodies on top of 4X4 truck frames...nothing wrong with the Hi-Boy look if you want it that way, but it kinda looks like a 4X4 coupe.
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I have to agree with Moose, it's all a matter of taste. I too like my car to sit low. My friend and I spent a whole morning with my 33 Chevy on jack stands measuring for the backspacing of my wheels and tire sizes. I had to order a custom backspacing to get the wheels to sit in the fender wells like Moose was saying. The wheels came in today and the tires should be here next week. I can't wait to mount them to see how the car sits.
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I agree with Moose it sets to high and the tires need to be under the fenders. I like cars to set low with just a little rake.
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Well i think i got this one right and maybe this one also. When it comes time to do the 32 roadster I am thinking right now ,that it should be a 1999 or 2000 chevy s10 2 wheel drive with airbags.but thats a few years off and subject to change. I am also looking at a peterbuilt to build a trailer hauler downsize the pete to about half size. A few years back i purchased an 86 ford crew cab long box with a dully rear end and i used the crew cab body on a mud buggy 4x4 so the frame engine tranny and rear is all up on the hayloft floor. mooseman
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Here's a 32 Chevy that was at the 2012 Goodguys show in Springfield Ma.
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OK guys your all going to hate me on this one.The pic that Tom just posted is
great
Super
clean,
like the wire wheels.The only thing i would change on that car are the bumpers I am partial to the 30/31 two piece bumpers.....Ok dont hit to hard it hurts lol lol wayner
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No hate here just Chevy lovers :P That was my daughters favorite car at the show. I'm usually not big on white cars but I do like that one.
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The main thing about using the s10 for swap is the bulk of the front frame area that would be hard to hide with an early 30s build. Not to mention having to mount fenders, bodies and any other items such as bumpers. You might get away with it on a more fat fendered style build of the late 30s to early 40s. Just my opinion , but when it's all said and done it is your car to build. Have fun with it.
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Ghost-29 The last few evenings Instead of watching movies with the weee wife I have been scouring the internet and found TONS of information on S-10 frames and jimmy frames and like all the ideas that they have to present.Having said that They are definetly not for 30'cars maybe 40's and 50's but not 1930's Hope i didn't scare anyone it was a friend of mine that said he was putting a 49 chevy truck on an s-10 frame and i thought why not a 32 roadster WELL the answer is NO. maybe use the rear end with disc brakes and all but thet would be it.
Anyways has anyone got any great ideas for putting independent front ends under a 1932 or would you just keep the steight axle and upgrade the brakes and steering.
I was thinking of going with the carbed 305 and 700R4 overdrive tranny But have thought of keeping the syncromesh tranny that is in the car and putting a 250--6 cylinder chevy in front of that.
By the way there would be NO changes to the body other than maybe putting 1930 bumpers on her and changing the rumble seat out for a trunk lid. I am thinking a trunk would be more useful to an older couple like us. OH and perhaps a trailer hitch.
When i got this car like 40 years ago they had taken the rumble lid out and bobbed the rear fenders.When spring comes i will get a chance to post pictures. Its another snow day here,and it sure is coming down.I already have one of those dame costco garages that has collapsed down around the little black 1980 ford shortbox stepside. Now that's another subject. Have a great weekend and play safe wayner
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Wayne
With a full fendered car you can go either way and it can look good. I installed a Kugel independent
and I have seen a couple of 32's whit a Mustang II based setups. I was going after a nice riding and good handling car but it's hard to beat the clean look of a straight axle.
Moose
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Well said Moose. I know there is a lot of parts to convert an original axle over to disc brakes for the chevies. I never seem to get a car with a chevy or gm style axle so I opt for whatever is available, and most of the time that is late 30s ford units that someone is replacing with a independent front end. I just bought a 40 ford coupe unit complete ready to install it even has new king pins in it, and it's drilled for chevy wheels. you can get these for right around $300.00 or less if you troll craigs list under autoparts key word hot rod.
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On the '32 that Moose posted I could live with the rear wheels but the front wheels are several inches out of the curve of the fender. It would look even worse if you lowered it. If it was a gasser style it would be different. This is one of the most common "mistskes when IFS is put on this vintage car. You are all right, I is a matter of taste. Beauty is in the eye.............but that one hurts my one remaining eye. :o Notice: I have not posted pictures of my rides. ;D
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OK guys another 8 inches on top of 6 inches from yesterday. Now i am almost sure ok 99.9 percent sure we are not going to be changing anything on the roadster other than maybe the bumpers that i dont have to 31 bumpers that i do have.
As far as suspension I think i will stay with the original front end and go with hydraulic drum brakes I believe that 72 might have been the last year for drum brakes or power drum brakes on the chevrolet car.
What is the most feasable way to put drum brakes on a 1932 chevy and from what year. I think replacing the master cylinder with a dual master and a proportioning valve. Has anyone on this site done that to one of these early chevys. Or has anyone down that and gone with the truck 6 bolt wheels so they could retain the 1932 chevy wire wheels.Just looking for ideas for down the road
And for ALL you chevy lovers and that would be all of us lol lol I have included 3 pictures of a gorgeous 1932 chevrolet delouxe sport roadster. The one thing i didn't know was that chevy back in 1932 had spot lights I guess your never to late to learn something Oh yes another 3 inches sometime in the evening and yes this car is a Canadian car made in i believe Regina Saskatchewan. The asking price for this car is $30,000. I am going to post pictures under 1930 cars wanted or for sale thanks
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If you decide to keep your original axle here are a couple of sites that offer either a basic kit or one with all the rotors and calipers to convert to hydraulic brakes. There are some guys on EBay also that sell conversion kits.
https://www.streetrodhq.com/detail/31583/Chevrolet_Front_Disc_Brake_Conversion_2840_Straight_Axle_Car.html
http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/early_chevy_discbrake_conversions.html
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Thanks Tom I will check both of these out. I* was not considering dic's brakes ,But drum brakes all around. I was thinking something like a 49 or 50 chevy truck front end with drum brakes and maybe a dodge 50 rear end only because i am almost sure it fits and has drum brakes then i would only have to find a drum / drum master cylinder. I 'think this thing will go over 70 and i don't care to squack the tires mooseman
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This is a '49 Chevy pickup front drum and it fits the 19" Chevy wire wheels perfectly. The later flat style would require spacers. I plan on putting the '49 spindles on a MOPAR tube axle. I'm still looking into using the '53 style brakes with the '49 drum. If not the old style will stop my light roadster. I'm still looking for a rear brake drum that will fit the wheels. I want to use a Dana 44 and I'd rather not use spacers.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NWkl3PxWJSU/UWXO3OLxSgI/AAAAAAAAF0M/LtS95v6e0dA/s640/100_0907.JPG)
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Question here, I'm putting a mustang II front end under my 32, I was told and have read several article's about putting this type of front end in cars. Every one of them says put the cross member on the same centerline as the front axle.
Is this wrong?
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After much thinking and searching the net you are apsolutely correct it just would not look right .Having said all that Has anyone put a 48 to 54 chev'y or 53 to 62 corvette independent front end under something like a 30's chevyrolet
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Question here, I'm putting a mustang II front end under my 32, I was told and have read several article's about putting this type of front end in cars. Every one of them says put the cross member on the same centerline as the front axle.
Is this wrong?
A friend is the one that installed the one in my 33. I believe he located the centerline of the original spindles and located the new front end so the spindles would be in the same location if that makes any sense. Then your wheels would sit in the center of the fender opening when looking from the side and the wheel base would remain the same.
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As Tom said... centerline of the original spindles and located the new front end so the spindles would be in the same location Then your wheels would sit in the center of the fender opening when looking from the side , keeping same wheel base measurement
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Question here, I'm putting a mustang II front end under my 32, I was told and have read several article's about putting this type of front end in cars. Every one of them says put the cross member on the same centerline as the front axle.
Is this wrong?
The guys are right about locating the centerline. If the mustang 2 unit is with a stock style or aftermarket crossmember and origiinal type mustang components, be carefull some of these locate the components more on top of the frame instead of beyond it, and you will have to bubble your fenders to clear it.
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OK guys I am starting to see doubles. Here goes. sixball your going to love this site,and i think we should copy all his information to this site somewhere.I will leave it up to one of you moderator guys the site is www. droppedaxles.com (http://www.droppedaxles.com/CHEVY_AXLES.html) chevys, fords, dodges, and others. Right Now the 1932 chevy is going to get a 1941 to 1955 chevy truck front axle with hydraylic brakes ,50-1/2 inch kp to kp also 26-3/4 inches spring center to spring center, 1-3/4 inch wide springs , 2-1/8 in kingpin BOSS. Only difference i can see is that the 1929-1932 chevy kingpin is .734 and the 1941 to 1955 truck kingpin is .866. Like sixball says use 49 cheyv hubs if you wish to run the original wheels six bolt,which i do For a rear end I am going to be using a Dodge Dakota PRE 92 had 5 on 4-1/2 for you guys that wish to go that way Me i am going with 92 and up they had 6 bolt that will match my chevy. Mooseman
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Thanks..The Dropped Axle link is below.
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Hey Wayne... as Ed said thanks for posting the link.I made it live in your post below so all you have to do is click on it and it will take you to the site and Ed has already added it to the Chevy Parts Source list on the main page.
Moose
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Thanks guys That site sure filled my boots He has everything and all information on spindels,axles inclanation wheel stance dropped axles for Ford ,Chevy Dodge and others,And if your sort of stuck you can drop him a line with a ????Question and hell give you his opinion.As i said I took his comparison of the 1929 to 1932 front axle and low and behold the 1941 to 1955 chevy gmc truck axle was exactly the same only had larger kingpin bosses.And i am sure that newer is better as for that statement I am sure if someone wanted to upgrade in any way say to dic brakes there would be no trouble finding stuff for 1955. Me again i wish to stay with drum brakes and run buick finned drums.I think at this point and time I am going to call it a done deal.I will also run or try to run everything from the 55 donner truck master cylinder and all thanks guys
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Vette59,Thanks, I had lost that link. I really like your plan. It is what I would do. I'm still stuck on my rear end choice. I am not a big fan of independent suspension on hot rods. I understand why it is done but it's not for me. Saying that I have been pondering it because over the last 30 years I have broken at least 2 sets of every after market spring set available and a few sets of modified stock sets. To get a pleasing ride height that will clear the rocks and ruts on my road a dropped axle won't do. It would turn into a dozer blade. I may have to go with IFS and air bags. OK there I've said it. I'm not proud of it but I said it. :D
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Sixball did you ever try a straight axle and i do mean straight I just call sid but i realize its 930 here so he is probably gone home. If someone can drop an axle Why can they not raise and axle.So i dropped sid a letter asking him just that.hear is a picture of oneI think you could flip this and have it on top of the springs not sure what that would do for you though
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On my '53 I run a stock spring pack on the rear and have never broken a spring. On the front I have a stock axle and Posie springs right now. One is broken. There is no way to change anything but the springs to lower the front and keep a beam axle. The problem is my road and there is no easy fix there. The roadster will be a different deal. I can make it work.
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OK sixball i have a solution for you . Don't get angry now .
Get yourself the use of a D-7 caterpiller bulldozer and level that road out. lol lol Wayner seriously .
If you are going to take your springs apart. What you do is get yourself some fiberglass screen and a big tub of greese, cut the screening to go between the springs and add grease both sides do this till you have screening and greese between each leaf.Then when all finished take electrical tape and wrap the whole spring so that will hold everything together and help keep the dirt out It will also allow the springs to move easier on each other. Drive carefully and slowly
PS Your going to have to take a picture of this road, trail, cowpath so we can all see what your up against.
My Grandparent drove a 32 coach all the way from Erma Albert to Westport Ontario back in the 1935 and from what i heard they went through 27 tires and tubes and patched everyone of them at least 5 times I can not imagine such a trip even back then
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Wayne..... I put a straight axle in my 57 gasser style and believe it or not it actually handled pretty well. It had a built L88 in it and there were quite a few occasions where the axle only had to support the weight of the wheels hanging in the air 8) At one point this was my daily driver for about six months. Young and foolish but had a lot of fun!
(http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=20839&pictureid=225760)
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Love that car I had a 55 2 door post car with a 454 and 4 speed I still have a set of those STAHL headers and some big block parts somewhere around here. I just got finished purchasing a front end axle with juice brakes complete out of a 54 chevy truck i take it out for one hundred bucks. Now what i need to confirm is the Dodge Dakota 92 and up 6 bolt wheel pattern if it is exact same bolt pattern as chevy. I know some guys are using S-10 or gmc Jimmys how are they getting the 6 bolt pattern,, or are they.By the way That big block was not what i called fast off the line most races i won were won in the last hundred feet.lol lol wayner
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OH!OH!OH! Guys i made a BIG MISTAKE. Last night i was talking with Rick out west and NO NO NO He did not use a 1992 and up Dodge Dakota rear end with 6 bolt design,they are 6 on 4.5.in He used Pre.1992 Dodge Dakota rear end which is 5 bolt on 4-1/2 inch pattern and he used 4-1/2 inch bolt pattern on the front I want to run 6 bolt 5.5 inch front and rear,also reffered to as 6 on 139.7 mm
I think i meant to day Dodge D-5- or Ram 50 pickup i am going to google that and will come up with an answer very soon. I also have a list of all vehicles that have 6 bolt on 5-1/2 inch pattern will talk to ed about posting. thanks guys wayner
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OK i searched and searched and finally came up with this one Phoned Rick and said sure but i might have to move the spring perches its a Dodge D-50 1979 to 93 and even comes with 14 inch 6 bolt wheels or a Raider 4 x 4 1986 to 1989 and it comes with 6 bolt and has 15 inch wheels both are 6 on 5.5 or 6 on 139.7 same as early chevys or late chevy trucks
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OK guys does anyone know or have an experience with putting a rack and pinion steering on a streight axle. I was over at wiess brothers in upstate New York and this fellow offered me a 2007 rack and pinion with 10,000 miles on it for 90 bucks I only bought it because i have a 2000 Gmc sierra and a 2005 silverado lowrider and i know here at home those things run 250 bucks so its now mine lol lol wayner
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Sixball I just got word back from sid said he has un-dropper a few axles and made them a straight axles . He also said #350.00 you send him the old axle and pay the freight OUCH.
I think dollar for dollar you are probably going to be better off with the dodge axle,Let us know how you make out or which way you are going to swing.I think i have the rear end and front end thing all figures out.Sure am gladd i have the parts stashed now and not looking for them 5 or 6 years from now wayner
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I have a couple of ideas for the '26 roadster and the MOPAR axle. It will be an early style and not really low anyway. I'll just have to get it all in the shop and do a mock up. I aso yhink I have a workable plan for the '53 pickup and part of involves a bull dozer. ;)
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I know i should not get involved with someone elses hot rod rat rod love of their lives ,But ????Just how wide is your frame rails apart outside edge to outside edge. I just had a brain Fart.wayner
This will give you independent front suspension ,,12 inch disc brakes,,Rack and pinion steering, and will bolt in and have two tabs welded one on each side of the frame for trailing arms,,and comes with 700 pound front coil springs ,,and will cost you about 300 bucks.This will give your road a pounding.Its out of a P71 Crown Victoria COP car
I was just on E bay check under P71 crown vic and found a 2008 with a little bit of front end damage $700 bucks in NJ
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Thanks but I just can't do that to my pickup. The worst I'll do is go back to a stock spring pack.
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I took the wife out this morning to get her hair done and all those things women do and then she was going shopping right next door,so i had a few hours to kill.Went over to another buds garage where he is building a 37 ford panel truck.He started to laugh when i told him about the crown victoria bolt in front end,and he said have a look ,a close look.I said OMG HOW. He told me he cut 3 inches out of the middle of the front end and had a friend weld it back together. I am going back out to his place tomorrow taking a measuring tape and a camera lol lol Wayner
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Not knowing where to put this ,I decided this would be the place. I have scoured many sites over the last 20 or 30 years and seen lots of ideas. I have an idea kicking around in the back of my head and i would like to let it out I would like some opinions.
This is about all the 48/49/50/51 chevy trucks that have been placed on chevy S10 and gmc jimmy.frames
Now how about placing the 32/33 chevy body on such a frame. Is it to high, Is it to long , Is it to wide.The one i am sitting looking at is a jimmy 1992 4 wheel drive v8 700R4 auto,Great running little truck with leather bucked seats and auto push button 4 wheel drive,and a rear leather seat that looks like it would double as a rumble seat lol lol OK
So after going all over the map...back to the OP's question.
My stepson has a 51 GMC frame (two in fact), both 4WD. Just by looking at it I would have to say it is too wide, too long etc. But like anything else, it could always be fixed. The depth of the frame section itself is also considerably deeper than the earlier Chevy's. Once he gets all the brackets off the second frame that he wants, we are going to cut the frame up into flat stock, and I will use some of it to box the frame on my '35.
Was your plan to make it a 4WD vehicle? If so, that would be one way to do it. Just be ready to do some considerable modification to the frame. Might be a bit of work, but probably not that bad once you get at it.
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What i was looking for was something just a little different wished to find a bolt in front independent front suspension. IF push comes to shove, I have a 1954 chevy truck front end with hydralic brakes that will just bolt up. My latest thinking is to measure up a 1953/54 chevy car front end or early corvette front end and see if it is wider than the 32 at the axle line on the 1932 chevy