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28 Chevy Roadster
sixball:
Chevy roadsters are my favorite! Maybe you'll inspire me.
28chevyguy:
Dropped axle from syd " 3" 54" Axle / Spindles/ arms "
Front springs are rebuilt and have dropped spindles from speedway, have 6 degree caster shims... may be too much have to check the actual angle it is at now . Might need softer shims OR put the original shackles back on . Might be too much caster again, not sure yet.
1955 (supposedly) 1/2 ton truck column, frame notched to keep column straight.
Question being , the pitman has a flat groove and only goes on one way, wondering what I need to do for the DRAG LINK.
Running a late model 305 with world class T5 , motor mounts and trans mount are done .
Have pedal assembly installed/ welded for hydraulic clutch / brakes , this should be straight forward, pedals are chopped and clamped to find the right position ... I pretty much have this situation under control.
I want to run DISC brakes in the front but retain the 6 lug, I will need conversion kit for 50's Chevy Truck ... again this should be straight forward , going to kick the wheels out even more but I'm going to have to accept what ever turns out at this point.
Rear end is 70's Truck 3.55 posi . Probably needs axle clips replaced , a little in out play... should be straight forward
madmike3434:
not sure if you can buy the right drag pitman arm, but what people do is to cut everything away except the SPLINED AREA. Make a new pitman arm , align to right location and mark with soap stone and fit the cut out part , over the cast part , where the spline is. 1/4" or 3/8 plate would be ideal. Use high powered arc welder with nickel silver rod.
I think 54" wide axle is too wide, 49--50" is more normal. You can get disc brake kits for 49--54 passenger car spindles, also corvette 53--62 . TOO wide a front end looks funny and awkward .
1960--70's builds like yours used mustang steering box mounted upside down so pitman arm was outside the frame. Box mounted to a plate that either welded to frame or bolted. Pete and Jakes pioneered that system.
Drag link arm box to front wheel........1" steel pipe , 1/4" wall , with 1/2" hole in it to drill out and tap for a spherical rod end . Use larger washer to cover the spherical rod end ball section. Same also used on steering arm front wheel. Preferred rod end size is 5/8 hole and thread.
mike lynch
28chevyguy:
such great information Madmike , interpreting every single thing you say is a task as im not a pro scratch rod builder as a lot of you guys here
so with the column / steering wheel centered ( the best I can that is ) Is it ok if the pitman arm is Not straight up and down? Looking at everything from the side of the car , the pitman arm is about 5 oclock .
I need to get some steering action first things first. Pedals are getting ironed out as we speak so that's a PLUS .
madmike3434:
steering arm should be straight up and down, that way you have same turning radius going left or right.
Measure straight wheel over to the frame to see how far it turns then do other side . Now turn the wheel maximum and see what you get for each side. Then make a decision as to whether you are okay with it or want to fix it ?
Non of us here are pro-builders that I am aware of, we are just like you with more experience because we have done it before.
mike lynch
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