[75TH RANGER INF]

Now this is a topic I studied and researched for days before I started to do mine. I looked all over for one already built but never found one the size or style I wanted. I called several places to get prices and 1200.00 was the lowest price I got for what I wanted.
I though they were out of their minds until I did mine and now I can understand the cost. I have around 40 hours into mine. I could do one much faster now that I have done one but it is still time consuming. I did not an all wood console so I used some wood where I had to for structure and some metal rod to make it rigid and straight.

Once I had the frame built I set it in the car to set up for my under dash fit and to make sure I was still within my limits between the seats.
I don't have a sewing machine nor know how to sew so I sent my seats to a friend of mine with my material for him to cover them. He also did my top as well but I did all the rest

[75TH RANGER INF]

The next step was to get a 1/4" piece of panel and cut out the openings for the accessories that I would install on the console panel
After I got it the way I liked it I clamped that piece to a piece of 3/8" PVC Board and used my router with a flush bit and transferred the cut outs

[75TH RANGER INF]

Adding some character to the console. You will see that on the side of the console I glued a piece of sheet flooring I bought at Lowes. It was an odd cut so it was cheap and I got way more than I needed. I cut an oversized piece, glued it on then used a razor and cut it leaving a reveal on the top side of the console. Now when I put my leather on it will have a step that gives it a nice clean look instead of just a plain flat side.

I used an old primer spray gun, bought a 5 gallon can of weldwood vinyl top adhesive and sprayed all my panels and leather.
It amazed me that after you spray the glue on you let it set 20-30 minutes. The glue feels really dry to the touch but when you put the two pieces together, you better darn well have it where you want it because it sticks like a 2 ton magnet.

[75TH RANGER INF]

i got a piece of 3"x1/2" x3' oak and used my router to make the groove for the console sliding door. I made sure to measure the thckness of the PVC Board and the leather combined to make the right size groove. I made sure to cut a piece long enough so I could get a piece for both sides of the console. After I cut the groove I measure where the bottom side of the console top would be, added for material thickness and then ripped the oak with the groove. I used #6 screws to attach it to the PVC Console sides from the outside. All the screws and dimples were filled in with poly body filler and rough sanded just to get it flat then the floor covering was glued on in turn hiding all the fasteners I used to build the console

[EDNY]

Very nice attention to detail...great workmanship.  Welcome to the forum.

Ed

[75TH RANGER INF]

I will start to cut this towards the end of the interior so I can move on to other areas of the car tomorrow.
Here are some pics of panels that are completed

[75TH RANGER INF]

Trunk is included here

[75TH RANGER INF]

steering wheel

[75TH RANGER INF]

interior done

[EDNY]

Show car quality...very nice.

[75TH RANGER INF]

Show car quality...very nice.

Thanks for the Kudos. I hope someone here gets something out of this. I spent a lot of time researching and was at my wits end.
It wasn't cheap but it was worth every penny !

Duke

[madmike3434]

I saved a lot of the pictures to my interior files , as I may do a similar consul.  Very well designed and executed .

 2 thumbs up...we only have smilies here & welcome to U

shazzbott a 35 chev roadster under construction

mike lynch     

[62131]

Duke  nice job on your console, looks to fit very well.  What seats did you use to get that much room between them?

[75TH RANGER INF]

I used Procar 80-1400-99R and 80-1400-99L. They were 213.97 each and come with a headrest that pivots. They also sell the seat bracket that the seat slider bolts to but I thought 80.00 each was a little too much so I made my own from 1/8" x 1" steel for the part that bolts to the floor or floor riser and then I used 1/2" steel rod that I drilled and tapped the holes in the ends of the rods for the seat slider to bolt to. I used 5/16" bolts. I don't have a lathe or a mill so I made a temporary holding fixture that allowed me to slide the rod up through my drill press plate and secure it with the drill press vise. My drill press has a red laser that marks the spot with an X so it wasn't too bad.

You take 2 pieces of the flat stock and weld 2 of the round steel rods on top of them. Cut the round steel rods the same measurement as the space between the slider tabs. The tabs can be tapped with a hammer and bent to make up for any slight variations

Look up the Procar 81266 and you will see the bracket. It took me a couple of hours to make them both. Be sure to use a square.

The seat slider mounts to the round steel rod at the front and back. The tabs on the slider bracket hang down and have 3 slots for different heights. I cut the rear tabs off leaving one slot so the rear off the seat would sit lower than the front and I used the very bottom slot on the front. Make sure that if you lower the back like I did you mount the round steel rod high enough off the floor to allow you to get the bolt in after the carpet and padding are in place.

Mounting the seats as close to the doors as possible left me about 4- 1/2" in between the seats. If you put a sliding door like I did you will have about 4" of space to reach into the console storage area

[EDNY]

FYI  Moved this to Moose's Tech Corner for any future use.