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New trans dyno

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Cool53:
On the wart pump, I have used the same pump for 10 years and it's still working well. If you run higher rpm like I do it helps eliminate cavitation by maintains constant flow. I wire the pump and cooling fan together so that if the engine calls for the fan when the engine is off it turns the pump back on, too, eliminating thermal rise after shutoff.
With aluminum heads, good timing control, Evans NPG+ coolant I can run just under 11.5 compression with no worries. Have to keep an eye on A/F ratio, too. 12.6/1 is about as lean as you want to get at WOT. Timing kills engines way before mixture, though. It's work to keep everything where it needs to be, but well worth it.

Cool53:
Breaking in most transmissions is usually a function of varying driving routines for a few hundred. I use Trans Gel when assembling a transmission so changing the fluid isn't a bad idea either. I install spin on filters on most installations which makes it easy to change and the filter works better than the one in the pan.
On a 4L60 or a 4L60E you can break in the band by using a pry bar and pressing the servo cover in while the transmission is spinning in first gear. Firm pressure for a few seconds will do the trick. But the band runs on the reverse input drum which is sheet metal, so don't overdo it. Anytime you rebuild one of these transmissions it's a good idea to replace the reverse input drum. I have a lathe so I can refinish some of them. And don't run a wide band,mother tend to just run on the edges. I talk too much!

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