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1939 Frame build

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EDNY:

--- Quote from: 39delux on June 26, 2017, 01:29:59 PM ---Local had a 5.3 engine/trans just like mine so I used it to locate the mounts and build the K member.  Also, here is a picture of the donor car for my engine and trans.  It had been setting around for 5 years when I got it.  Engine happens to be an all aluminum 5.3 designated LM4.  Only produced 2003/04.  Drops about 100 lbs from the iron block.  I'll need the savings because of the much beefier frame.

--- End quote ---

Was it a 2wd vehicle?

39delux:
No, it had 4 wheels!  Actually, that's a very good question, just couldn't resist...  I did not want a 4 wheel drive donor because the tailshaft can't be changed to convert it to two wheel drive.  We took the entire donor vehicle back to the shop, turned it on its' side and started to take the drivetrain loose.  Over a half hour later I discovered that it was, in fact, 2 wheel drive.  Guess I was focused on the job at hand and didn't notice.  It was a 4 wheel drive pan, the one with a hole thru it.  After getting the engine/trans out and pressure washing it I discovered it was an all aluminum engine.  Kind of rare, only made in 2003-04.  It's a 5.3 with the designation of LM4.  When getting a drivetrain from a donor vehicle get the VIN number, then you will be able to verify the engine and mileage.  This engine had 89K on it and had been setting for 4 years when I got it.  I've done nothing except change plugs which it didn't need. 

39delux:
Actually that's the end of the frame build.  I didn't take pictures of the body swap because I was to worried about dropping the body as it was balanced on just the edge of two 4 X 4s.  Once the body was on the frame I used early Ford biscuit style rubbers for body mounts.  Most of the body mount holes lined up with the frame so I just drilled thru, slipped a biscuit in and done.  The front body mounts at the firewall and the rear most mounts required welding on a pad for the biscuits like original.  Once everything was in place I had to redesign the left motor mount because of the steering shaft.  The car sets level with the bags at 50 PSI.  I couldn't go lower without cutting into the rear floor under the back seat which I didn't want to do and besides dragging stuff is not my idea of a streetable car.  Cost.  Without looking everything up in my fat folders a ballpark swag is:  Steel $300 (rails and flat plate), Front cross member $250, air bags and lines $200, power rack and pinion $90 (T'bird non sport), triangle 4 bars $300.  Add tubular A arms, disc brakes and a rear end of your choice and you have a roller for under $2000.  Question is: was it worth it?  To me yes, I had fun doing it, now have a safe(er) car that's fun to drive.  Still have the plans.   

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