[EDNY]

Anyone have experience plumbing the cooling system in a reverse flow LT1 engine using a non-LT1 radiator? The Y and F (93-97) body LT1 car radiators have (5) outlets, one is the overflow. A standard radiator only has the upper/lower hose (and overflow).

Will bypass the throttle body cooling lines, but understand that even if I don't use a heater core those lines must make the loop. The factory drawings don't help because they use an LT1 radiator - and show flow restrictors on the heater core lines.

Basically need some advice from someone with an LT1 in a streetrod.

[vette59jdwl]

  Ed  I have a 1989 caprice 305 700r4 tranny and it has a reverse flow.I think if you goole that  you will find that it has a regular radiator  has  reverse flow water pump and a reverse fan on the front  any other thing looks normal to me other than timming  thanks  wayner

[EDNY]

  Ed  I have a 1989 caprice 305 700r4 tranny and it has a reverse flow.I think if you goole that  you will find that it has a regular radiator  has  reverse flow water pump and a reverse fan on the front  any other thing looks normal to me other than timming  thanks  wayner

The LT1 engine has (3) coolant lines on each side of the water pump that's -6- water lines on one pump.  I'm sure I have it figured but would like to know mostly the purpose of the heater core line restrictors or if there are really needed.

The LT1 aluminum heads have steam ports and lines on the back of each head that are plumbed externally into the cooling system.

BTW: Asked the same question at the HAMB and had my message deleted without explanation  

[sammons]

Haha, "just read the rules man", geeze. Curiosity got me, seems to be getting worse. Most of my buddie have left there since change before last. Too bad really. Sorry I don't know anything about the LT1. Ed did I mention, thanks for this site?
                                                     Sammons

[madmike3434]

my friend frank was visiting the other day and he was showing me his installation of LT-1 with Factory FI in his 1931 oldsmobile coupe .  He was running the top rad hose to the factory 1931 radiator outlet connection and the lower inlet to the stock rad lower inlet .

Actually I asked him about heater hose connections, he does not run a heater.   I was not able to contact him by telephone today about the heater hose outlets on the water pump and what he did with them.  In our conversation while he was here said car runs 185--190 steady temps.

I would assume he ran pipe plugs on the water pump to block any flow.

mikie lynch   

[EDNY]

Thanks Sammons for the kudo

Mike: what's funny is making the wiring harness and flashing the ECM is a piece of cake..I'm getting stumped with the cooling lines!!!

Let me try to explain with the attached drawings as a reference.

Part One:

Hose #4 normally comes from the head and into the throttle body, I am bypassing the throttle body because the TB doesn't need to be heated in the Summer and it's better for performance to be cooler.  So #4 will be connected directly to #5.  Not sure where to install a "T" for #5, into upper radiator hose #14 or lower hose #1.

Hose #16 in the drawing is one piece and enters the radiator lower driver side NOTE: If using an engine oil cooler hose #16 is then split and used for the engine oil filter cooling circuit.

Since we are not running the engine oil cooler, where is line #16 "T'd into" hose #14 or hose #1.


http://shbox.com/1/95-97_hoses.jpg


Part Two:

Hoses #3 and #15 are part of the heater core lines. I read somewhere that even if we don't run a heater core we still need to complete the circulation loop. (we are running a heater)

The drawing shows #13 "flow control valve"  my question is do I really need that valve...or better yet what does it do?

I think we need to run a loop in the heater hose because if you look at #5..it's a system air bleeder screw....probably wouldn't work without the loop circulation?

http://shbox.com/1/heater_hoses.jpg

Again...the wiring and computer work is a piece if cake, if you guys ever need TPI or LT1 ecm programming (OBD1 only) I can do it for you.

Ed

OH: BTW: The LT1 is a reverse flow aluminum head engine, the heads are cooled first and the lines coming off the back of the heads are steam ports and can't be deleted. That's why the LT1 engine can run higher compression ratios because the heads run cooler.

The H.A.M.B. is just crazy with all off their rules..you can have a T5 tranny, safety glass,  radial tires, Mustang 2 upfront, LED light, water base paint etc, etc...but no EFI on your engine because it's not traditional.

[ghost28]

When I did the lt1 in my 32 chevy I had the upper and lower radiator hose and the heater hoses if I remember correctly there were no t's installed except to the rear heads air bleed cooling line that were plumbed to the heater hose and the in and out for the throttle body is just a tube if not connected, and anything else was just plugged off, but I have slept since then, SOOOO  and by the way if you aren't running a heater the heater hoses have to be looped and connected to the engine cooland air bleed coming from the rear of the heads

[vette59jdwl]

i have a few for you...hope this works

[EDNY]

i have a few for you...hope this works

I have seen that drawing on the right previously...creates more confusion with that "Pressure Reservoir", don't think the donor Z28 had one...the overflow obviously is required....but the drawing does indicate hoses being "T'd" into the radiator hoses.

Thanks

[themoose]

Ed...Here's the F body diagram

[EDNY]

Ed...Here's the F body diagram

Moose

Your drawing is for a 93-94 F Body, my drawing is for the 95-97 F Body "BUT" yours shows hose #5 (my 95 drawing) "T"eed into #14 hose (YES), comparing both drawings it appears that hoses #5, #14 and #16 are all hot and all must enter the top of the radiator...so technically I'll need (2) T's for that line.

The Y body with the same engine has yet another routing..

Thanks