[Rattiac]

Cant seem to get the turn signals to work.
I have LED's in the rear and Im working on the front markers. Well at least trying to test one side on the front to get an idea of whats gonna work.
On the front i may be using one 3/4 LED for the marker and the 1155 bulb for the turn signal but cant get the bulb to blink. Ive tried reversing the LED and bulb but no blink.
Am I not drawing enough current to get the signal to blink ?  OR am I gonna have to hook em' all up to get it to work ?
I have one night to get these working . what do yall think ?
Oh , I do have one of those flashers installed  thats suspose to work with LED's .

[EDNY]

As you noted LED lights are power directional so you need to power the correct side. If you use all LED bulbs then you need a LED specific flasher. If using a mix of regular and LED bulbs..then a regular flasher should work.

Try removing the flasher and connecting & un-connecting the two terminals to see if the lights go on/off to simulate a flasher. Then you'll narrow it down to the flasher..can you wire in another bulb in that line temporarily to see if your 1155 is drawing enough current?

[themoose]

It depends on what type of flasher you have. You say you have one that works with LED's so I would guess that its a solid state one. There are a couple different types of solid state flashers. Some just have a chip with the related caps and resistors to support it. It doesn't use a timer and the flash rate varies with circuit load just like the old mechanical flashers. With mechanical flashers as more bulbs are added the current through the heater element increases and causes it to heat faster thus breaking the contacts at a faster rate. The non timer controlled solid state flasher reacts the opposite way flashing faster with the reduced bulb load from a lower current led or less bulbs. Fixed-rate solid state flasher modules use a timer circuit to regulate the flash rate independently of bulb load. I always use the timer controlled solid state flasher so I can use any combination of incandescent/ led light and still get a constant flash rate regardless of load.

Moose

[EDNY]

Another thing to remember when working with LED lights you need to use a fully charged 12v battery. Working off a battery charger won't work with LEDs.

[ghost28]

Is your wiring harness aftermarket?

[Rattiac]

Yeah. Its a speedway 12 circuit.

Battery is new and charged.  Boy, batteries got exspensive .

Moose;  thanks for the info on flashers. Alot I didnt know .

Im gonna hook up all the lights on the front temperarly and  see if that works.
If it dosent then at least its daylight and can drive anyway . I can get back to it when Im home later.

[sammons]

Rattiac, I don't know squat about the led's yet, but everybody talks about adding a dummy load resistor to the flasher circuit.  Speedway has them if you keep having trouble, but maybe if you have an led flash system it may not be required. I'll bet, as mentioned,  once all lights are hooked up it will operate correctly.

Speedway part # 910-03030 @ $9.99 per pair. Good luck!

[trbomax]

 I changed the wifes trailer out to led's and rewired the goosenek part of it to eliminate the sloppy wireing yesterday. I checked the system out with a batt charger and the led's worked fine.

[EDNY]

I changed the wifes trailer out to led's and rewired the goosenek part of it to eliminate the sloppy wireing yesterday. I checked the system out with a batt charger and the led's worked fine.

LEDs alone will work fine with a battery charger...it's when you try to use only the charger to power the lights (LEDs)
and the LED flasher that the problem may occur. Best to use a good battery when working with LED flashers.