[munch]

I did not mention that by saying would not start, it won't even turn over.  Just click...

At one time a wire running to the transmission fell onto the exhaust pipe and got so hot it melted some of the insulation the bundle.  I might not have fixed all of it.  Maybe a short???

[themoose]

Make sure that you have a good ground from the battery to the engine and chassis and body. Very important.

[vette59jdwl]

If it clicks it clicks at the selenoid put a test light to ground and then on the outgoing power line from the relay the other side of the relay should be directly attached to the battery. If the light lights you know its sending power through the selenoid.Then take a the test light and touch it on the end of the starter post if it lights.Then take a cable attach one end on the frame or ground and the other
end on the engine block a perfect ground now try the key it should start  vette59jdwl

[EDNY]

I did not mention that by saying would not start, it won't even turn over.  Just click...

At one time a wire running to the transmission fell onto the exhaust pipe and got so hot it melted some of the insulation the bundle.  I might not have fixed all of it.  Maybe a short???

In that situation sounds like a major bad connection...bad battery clamp, cable, dirty connection, broken wire inside insulation. 

Check the voltage of the battery first, make sure it is charging when running,  If you have a "1" wire alternator...you might need  to really rev up the engine to activate the alternator.

BTW: With the headlights on try to start it, if the headlights don't dim...probably bad connection, if they do dim...probably dead battery.

[munch]

Might have made progress.  Last night it would not turn over, just click.  In my frustration I forgot to test as you all have told me, instead I went for the tach wire again with no luck.  I checked grounds, no luck.  I wiggled the wiring bundle, no luck.  Finally I moved the wires connecting the mini starter that has not been on long, it started.  I am going to put it on the lift this weekend and check those connections.

[ghost28]

munch. I had a small block that did pretty much the same thing. just click and not turn over. My problem was with a bad solonoid on the starter. I believe what made it weak was being so close to the headers it got hotover and over, A few times after driving it, I had to cross the starter terminals with a screwdriver to get it to start.

Just a thought...John

[munch]

munch. I had a small block that did pretty much the same thing. just click and not turn over. My problem was with a bad solonoid on the starter. I believe what made it weak was being so close to the headers it got hotover and over, A few times after driving it, I had to cross the starter terminals with a screwdriver to get it to start.

Just a thought...John

  John,

That makes sense, as mine is close to the headers.  I ordered the mini started kit from Speedway and it has a metal shield, but still that area gets hot.

Thanks for the input...

[sammons]

Munch, sorry I had you chasing the tach. I misunderstood your problem, I thought it was a firing problem (not a cranking). Here is a quick list to try, in order of probability.

1. Check solenoid terminal nuts for tightness. If tight, check that crimp on wire terminal
    is tight (slightly tug on wire to check crimp).
2. Solenoid
3. Break in soleinoid "crank" wire (between solenoid and ignition switch)
4. Ignition switch out of adjustment (at the lower steering column,  if GM style column)
5. Bad ingnition switch.

Also if heat is killing soleinoid as Ghost reffered too, I think that the Speedway mini starter has an adjustment to clock the solenoid to another (inboard) position, to get the most distance from the header.

Hope you find it.

     

[munch]

Munch, sorry I had you chasing the tach. I misunderstood your problem, I thought it was a firing problem (not a cranking). Here is a quick list to try, in order of probability.

1. Check solenoid terminal nuts for tightness. If tight, check that crimp on wire terminal
    is tight (slightly tug on wire to check crimp).
2. Solenoid
3. Break in soleinoid "crank" wire (between solenoid and ignition switch)
4. Ignition switch out of adjustment (at the lower steering column,  if GM style column)
5. Bad ingnition switch.

Also if heat is killing soleinoid as Ghost reffered too, I think that the Speedway mini starter has an adjustment to clock the solenoid to another (inboard) position, to get the most distance from the header.

Hope you find it.

   

  No worries, I am just so thankful for you guys and your willingness to help.  You're a huge asset...

[munch]

Munch, sorry I had you chasing the tach. I misunderstood your problem, I thought it was a firing problem (not a cranking). Here is a quick list to try, in order of probability.

1. Check solenoid terminal nuts for tightness. If tight, check that crimp on wire terminal
    is tight (slightly tug on wire to check crimp).
2. Solenoid
3. Break in soleinoid "crank" wire (between solenoid and ignition switch)
4. Ignition switch out of adjustment (at the lower steering column,  if GM style column)
5. Bad ingnition switch.

Also if heat is killing soleinoid as Ghost reffered too, I think that the Speedway mini starter has an adjustment to clock the solenoid to another (inboard) position, to get the most distance from the header.

Hope you find it.
Number 3 might be the problem.  I dropped the started last night so I could remove the heat shield and check the wiring, and that heavy gauge wire that runs from the solenoid to ignition was loose at the round connector.  Some of the wires were broken and I suppose that the voltage that the wire needs to support, that would cause a problem.
I cut the round end off and I had a piece of wire in the wiring box that is just like it and already has the connector on it.  Now I have to splice the to together, which is good because I need some extra length, but what is good to splice it with?  Would a crimp connector hold up or should it be soldered?  I think it is maybe 12 gauge.   

   

[TFoch]

Munch,
How difficult would it be to replace the whole wire? Then you would have one less place for corrosion or problems to set in.
Tom

[sammons]

Munch like Tom said, if it's easy enough to pull a new wire into the loom. But if you splice, I would use quality heat shrink insulation tubing and solder the splice. I solder everything I can, you will never have trouble with a good solder joint.

[munch]

Munch like Tom said, if it's easy enough to pull a new wire into the loom. But if you splice, I would use quality heat shrink insulation tubing and solder the splice. I solder everything I can, you will never have trouble with a good solder joint.

  I would like to do as Tom suggested, but the wire is from a painless wiring kit and has an inline fuse and leads to the main 60 amp fuse, I think that is the size I remember.  I picked up a crimp on a connector that also has built in shrink tubing, but if you think the solder is best I will need to get something that will heat up that big wire.  Lowes has mini butane torches? 

[EDNY]

I have a soldering station for anything out of the car. For anything in the car I use a hand held micro butane soldering gun...good for the heat shrink also.

What I have learned:

* Only use 'triple refined" butane in the micro hand torches

* Plumbers water base flux works great. It says not for electrical soldering BUT I use it because it it designed to work under flame and doesn't burn up like regular soldering flux does.  Try it...always get clean and strong connections.

Ed

[sammons]

Munch, i'm not saying not to use the butt connector, a lot of people have success with them. It just seems like every used car I buy that has them, I have had problems with. I end up cutting them out and soldering them. If you use the crimp on butt connectors, make sure you have a good crimp tool and pull on the connection to make sure it's tight on both ends.

I have several of the older Wellers soldering guns and they have no problem soldering up to 6 gage wire. I prefer the lead rosin core solder.