[munch]

A couple of weeks ago I got in the car to go for a ride and it would not start.  It had just been running the previous day.  I checked all the wiring and all I saw was a wire to the distributor that appeared loose, so I reseated it.  The car started right up.  I think it happen once again, so I did the same thing.  It started right up.
Yesterday I drove to my brother's house about 60 miles away.  I spent the day helping him and when I tried to start the car to head home, it would not start.  So of course I reseated the same connection, started right up.  When I got home I parked in front of the shop and let it sit a while.  When I tried to start it to put it inside, it would not start.  I fiddled with the wire again, over and over, no good.
I discovered that the connection I was messing with was the tach wire, that didn't make sense to me.  I got the neighbor to help me push it in and I locked up.  I went out this morning to start to find the problem, and it turned right over.
I need advice please, I want to fix the bugs so I can trust the car.

Thanks
 

[ghost28]

I sounds like the module in your distributor is slowly going bad, that is if you have a electronic distributor.
Just my guess

[sammons]

Munch, Ghost may be on the right track. I've had the H.E.I. head have intermittent problems also.  I had bought a '75 T/A that the tach wasn't working, found it unpluged. When I plugged it in it would intermittently not start, replaced tach and cured. I also had a '69 Torino Cobra that had the tach problems, wouldn't start sometimes and make engine miss under hard acceleration. Had tach sent in for rebuild, problem also cured.

Just some things to look at.
p.s. unhook tach and see if problem goes away.

[ghost28]

Good call. I didn't consider the tach as a problem, they do go bad. I bought a jeep awhile back because it wouldn't start. took the tach out and it fired right up.

[munch]

I replaced  the ignition module last season.  As a test, should I disconnect the tach and monitor?

[62131]

I would disconnect the tach wire check and see if it fires, with the tach going bad it is probably going to ground.

[munch]

Disconnected the tach runs fine.  I will watch.

[munch]

Update, has not failed to start as yet.

[munch]

Update - I tried to start the car this morning and it would not start  I moved the wire connections at the distributor and no luck.  I plugged the tach back in and it started, I'm confused.   

[ghost28]

Update - I tried to start the car this morning and it would not start  I moved the wire connections at the distributor and no luck.  I plugged the tach back in and it started, I'm confused.

Damn gremlins are screwing with you. I wonder if you could be having a dirty ground problem with your car.

[vette59jdwl]

OK here goes  I know it has nothing to do with old chevys It has lots to do with a twin 18 hp MURRY lawn tracktor. The dang thing will not start so i took it all apart all the shielding around the motor took the starter off and hooked it up to a set off jumper cables wheeeer ,wheeeeer,wheeeeer,. so i put it all back together had the battery fully charged by this time put the  key in the ignition and Nada.Dang what the fiddle fart.Took the ground off the battery cleaned that took the ground off of the frame cleaned that with the die grinder put that all back together NADA not even a click.So i took the jumper cables put them on the positive and negative put the other end negative on the block and clicked the live stick on the starter wheeeer. So said crap went and got a negative black cable from the old chevy truck  took a bolt out of the frame but one end on the frame and took a bolt out of the head  put the other end of ground to that click click wheeeer run run run  what the hell doesnt matter it starts and runs  dang gremmlins  vette59jdwl

[themoose]

You said that you replaced the module last year but how about the pick up coil. I have seen them give an intermittent no start.  When the teeth are aligned, the magnetic field increases, which induces a electric current through the pick up coil windings. As the timer core and pick up coil move away from each other, the magnetic field collapses and the voltage signal is diminished.  The magnetic field and pick up coil generate an AC (alternating current) in the pick up coil leads and the windings.When the pick up coil voltage falls below a certain threshold, the ignition module opens the primary current flow within the module. The ground path is eliminated from the coil primary windings, collapsing the magnetic field. The voltage that is induced in the coil (secondary) circuit is the result of the mutual induced current from the magnetic field collapsing.If the coil voltage is not falling below the threshold maybe when you open the circuit by removing or wiggling the connector you are fully discharging the coil and the signal to the module starts working again.

[EDNY]

If you are using an aftermarket module could be bad..try to locate an OEM Delco module (even used) with the number 369 on it.

[themoose]

Modules can easily be tested with a DVOM...Do a search in Google and you will find the procedure.

[EDNY]

Modules can easily be tested with a DVOM...Do a search in Google and you will find the procedure.

I bet Autozone would test it for free...but it sounds like a bad module..been through that sequence of intermittent starts. (If you have a Richporter module..I'd get a Delco).