Rusty Bowtie
General Category => General Discussion - Intros => Topic started by: Chucks36 on April 07, 2014, 07:55:41 AM
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Looking forward to both my project and time here on RB. I picked up a '36 standard on Saturday that has been garaged and not running since 1970-1971. The previous owner bought it in 1970 at the age of 16 out in Minnesota. He replaced the drive train with a '58-'59 283 and a 3 speed and rear end from a '55 chevy doner. Uncle Sam came calling and the car was never touched again. I have a few questions right off the bat but I will start a new thread....mostly pertaining to running boards.
Here was part of my day on Saturday.
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image10_zpsbfdc1d1d.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image10_zpsbfdc1d1d.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image12_zpsc5691dfb.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image12_zpsc5691dfb.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image7_zpsaf62ee25.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image7_zpsaf62ee25.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image6_zpsb79004c8.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image6_zpsb79004c8.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image5_zpsc86bb997.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image5_zpsc86bb997.jpeg.html)
Chuck
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Chuck... welcome aboard. It's always to get the new acquisition home and safe. Looks like a super solid car. I'm looking forward to seeing what direction you take it.
Moose
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Welcome to the forum from upstate NY ..Great Find...looks like you have a lot of nice steel to work with!
Ed
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Hey Chuck, looks like a very soild start. I helped a guy build a '35 master coupe 15 yrs ago, can't remember much about it but it was cool. How's the wood? The one I helped with the ol boy and his son spent several years with a duplicater making new, but they did a hell of a good job. Good luck, great project. Lots of chevy info here.
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Yeah.....I'm looking forward to working on it. The wood is in great shape and as for some preliminary plans...
Find running boards, pull motor, do as much body work as I can while she is intact, strip it down to the frame, clean/paint as I reassemble, install MII front end, try to save the 283, 3 speed and rear that are currently in the car.
Now here are some questions I have...
1)VIN....is the VIN stamped anywhere on the frame? Where is the factory VIN plate located on the body(I think mine is missing)?
2) In an effort to clean up the surface rust(on the inside of the door for example) do you guys remove all the wood and reinstall afterwords....or do you work around the wood?
3)Running boards.... is it true that the '35 and '36 Standard 5 window coupe running boards are interchangeable?
Thanks in advance, Chuck
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Hey Chuck welcome to the bowtie from ColoRodo. That is a nice solid project it even has a lube sticker still on it. You said the wood is good, I would not take it out but just work around it for the most part because of condition of the wood and the way it is installed, it would be a task to remove it with out hurting the body ar the wood. I have a friend that is also named Chuck that had a 36 coupe and he regrets selling to this day. Again welcome and have fun here....John
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Chuck i'm not sure on the '36,( but researching my 34-35 standards I found out ). Chevy didn't start stamping frame #'s until the mid 50's. Your serial # so to speak should be screwed to the floor somewhere near the batt box door and the sill plate on the pass side.
When I removed what was left of my wood, the metal was almost shiny under. I don't think I would try to remove it unless you were replacing it.
The running boards would have to be off a '35 master. The '35 standard is the older '34 body style.
Someone on here I'm sure has one for a better reference.
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Hi Chuck, looks as though you have a better coupe then I do. My vin was on the firewall, passenger side and there is another one that should be on the floor, passenger front side. Both mine were missing so your already ahead of me. As for running boards, as long as you stay with the standards , you will be ok. I have a master and they are about 4" longer than a standard running board is. Looking forward to another '36 coupe owner.
3WBill
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Chuck, you can use a 35 master coupe for running boards not a standard from '35 and when you get into '36's you can use a master running boards off any master sedans . I have 1 original on mine now and one off of a 36 master 2 door sedan that a friend has. My car is a canadian but that shouldn't make any differances. From what I have learned since getting mine is all master frames are 4 " longer than a standard frame is. I bought a standard door from a 5 window, that is the same width, but the running boards were too short. PM me for more info if you like.
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Chuck, because we are all cool here and its ok to tell of other forums. There is a 1936 chevy owners group on Yahoo. It is only 36 chevs , nothing else , just for 1936 chev advice . I am on there and they have been helpful on more than one occasion. Little hard to figure the forum out as they have it going as an old style chat room setup.
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God morning Chuck...another big welcome to the forum.
Oboy, your car sure does look like it is in really top shape, very nice indeed.
As my Lil Bro 3WBill mentioned, you should find the body ID tag on the firewall, and the actual chassis VIN on the floor immediately to the right side of the passenger seat. That tag is often beat up or missing, but your car is in such nice shape that I bet it is still in place and quite readable.
The body tag is a body by Fisher item, and the chassis VIN is the Chevrolet item.
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Chuck,
Welcome to the forum. Good group of guys here that are always willing to help. Nice looking 36. Looking forward to seeing your progress on the car. Good luck with your build.
Tom
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36s are great looking!
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I really got lucky with the condition of this coupe...it should make the build go a lot quicker. There are only a couple pieces of wood in the doors that I may replace but everything looks pretty good. Maybe I'll take some pics of some of the wood. So If I understand correctly the only place for the VIN is right by the battery box....looks like it may have been mounted on an angle....it is gone. I do have the tag on the firewall but the VIN is not on that correct? Is their a source for decoding the VIN that would give me the number of characters in it. I was off today and made some progress on the coupe. Give me a second and I'll be back to upload a pic.
Chuck
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(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/clip_zps7ace6473.jpg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/clip_zps7ace6473.jpg.html)
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Chuck, try "Stovebolt Vin decoder" site at the very bottom of the main forum page. I just tried it, should give you a count of #'s. On my '35 std, it used some of the info that was on the body tag (plant/sequin.#) under body#. I think your series # should be FC
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I really got lucky with the condition of this coupe...it should make the build go a lot quicker. There are only a couple pieces of wood in the doors that I may replace but everything looks pretty good. Maybe I'll take some pics of some of the wood. So If I understand correctly the only place for the VIN is right by the battery box....looks like it may have been mounted on an angle....it is gone. I do have the tag on the firewall but the VIN is not on that correct? Is their a source for decoding the VIN that would give me the number of characters in it. I was off today and made some progress on the coupe. Give me a second and I'll be back to upload a pic.
Chuck
Chuck, tomorrow when we have some light here, I will take a pic of the Chevrolet chassis tag and the Body by Fisher tag on the firewall. My '35 is an EC series and I think that sammons is correct in saying your '36 will be an FC series. Yours should be in about the same locations I believe.
That is correct, your actual VIN is NOT on the firewall tag, that is your body number, paint code etc. only.
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I have the tag on the firewall...........Just dont know what to do about the missing VIN. I was hoping it was on the frame somewhere when I bought it. Unfortunately the previous owner didn't have any paperwork..... having gone back to the early 70's
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Chuck,
Check what your local laws are. I'm missing the one on my 33 Chevy and when it's ready I'll bring it to the DMV up here in New Hampshire and they will issue me a new one. I'm told to bring all my receipts and even pictures of my build. In NH I can register it as a street rod which would allow me to run without a hood or fenders if I wanted to.
Tom
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Yeah, that was my next step. I'll check out the CT-DMV site first.
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Here's some info I posted on HAMB awhile back. As it states when I registered my car in Connecticut they used the Fisher body tag for registration because it was riveted on and less likely to be tampered with. That was 40 years ago so their views might have changed. In any case here is some good information on the subject of early Chevy ID's
Moose
The GM car number was nailed to the passenger side floor or seat frame not screwed.
The Fisher body build plate was attached to the cowl and showed the body build sequence and other information as described below. Some states will agree to use the body sequence number on the cowl plate , others want to use the GM car number on the floor/seat frame and some will use the engine serial number. I have my 32 Chevy registered in Connecticut with the body build sequence number from the cowl tag. You might want to contact your Local DMV to see what the requirements are in your state. Below is a more detailed description of the various changes relative to the year of build.
Early Chevrolet cars & trucks used Car Number Plates to identify where the vehicle was made, which month it was made, show the series and the number of the vehicle as it came off the assembly line. Most early wood-bodied models had this plate nailed into the seat frame or the floor on the passenger side. For this reason, they are often missing. The plates changed each year until 1934. Model names "Superior K," "Superior V," "Capitol," "National," "International," "Universal," "Independence," "Confederate" and "Eagle" were used prior to 1934. From mid-1933 thru 1936 "Master" & "Standard" were used. Starting in 1937, the plates had "Master" & "Deluxe Master". From 1933-1938 most trucks used the Master Car Number plate.
The Car Number or Model Identification Plate shows the factory of manufacture, series designation (i.e.: BA = 1932 passenger cars), the month of manufacture (1932 and later models) and the car number. Using this example number, I will break down the code: 6BA 03 14173.
In this example the first number or numbers indicates the factory where the vehicle was manufactured. Referring to the table below, the number "6" indicates that the factory where this vehicle was manufactured was Oakland, California.
The letters "BA" indicate that this was a 1932 series passenger vehicle and the model was called "Confederate". The second table lists the 1925 to 1939 series and model designations that were used on all passenger cars and most trucks:
Plants of Manufacture
- Flint, Michigan
- Tarrytown, New York
- St. Louis, Missouri
- Kansas City, Missouri
- Oakland, California
- Atlanta, Georgia
- Norwood, Ohio
- Buffalo, New York
- Baltimore, Maryland
- Van Nuys, California
- Janesville, Wisconsin
| YEAR | SERIES | MODEL |
| 1925 | V | Superior |
| 1926 | K | Superior |
| 1927 | AA | Capitol |
| 1928 | AB | National |
| 1929 | AC | International |
| 1930 | AD | Universal |
| 1931 | AE | Independence |
| 1932 | BA | Confederate |
| 1933 | CA | Eagle |
| 1933-36 | Car & Truck | Master |
| 1933-36 | Std Car | Standard |
| 1937-39 | Car & Truck | Master |
| 1937-39 | Deluxe Car | Deluxe Master |
The numbers "03" indicates the month that the vehicle was manufactured - March of 1932. If the number was "11", that would indicate that the vehicle was manufactured in November of 1931. This part of the serial number was not used until the 1932 production (model year), therefore, 1931 and earlier models will not have these two numbers.
The number "14173" (model series unit number) indicates that this is the 13,173rd vehicle to come off the Oakland assembly line in 1932. (Note that the numbering started at 1,001).
In 1932, there were two different Car Number Plates used. All 1932 models had a 2-digit month of manufacture added to the number. Early production vehicles used "Car Number" on the plate, just like the 1931 models. Later production models used a new plate that had a longer field for the number. In order to make room for the longer number, the words "Car Number" were shortened to "Car No". From 1932 and later "Car No." was used.
Example Plates
(https://www.fillingstation.com/Images/articles/dp-32.png)(https://www.fillingstation.com/Images/articles/sa-10a.png)
The Fisher body tag that is mounted on the cowl
Contains the Job Number, Body Number, Trim Number and Paint Number.)
Note: GM of Canada included the car serial number on this tag. US Cars did not.
(http://1931chevrolet.com/images/tags/cowl.jpg)
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Chuck: since you have the firewall tag, there's no sense in reproducing mine here.
But here is a pic of the Chevrolet chassis VIN tag. As moose's post points out, it is nailed into the wood member immediately to the right of the battery box - as you can see. No wonder so few cars managed to keep this in place.
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Regarding whether or not you have a VIN tag and the registration process, you have already been referred to your DMV people.
Our Specialty Vehicle Association here in B.C. has been working with government for 30 years to try and sort out all sorts of these little problems. We also keep in touch with other organizations in Canada and the U.S. and it is becoming more and more common to find various provisions for the specialty cars, antiques etc.
I think that more than half of the states now have a variety of provisions for our cars. Things like special licence plates, reduced insurance for the old cars with some restrictions, a simplified form of registration where none exists and so on.
Here in B.C. - and this is not the same for all Canadian provinces - a vehicle with no registration, whether it be lost, never registered, brought in from another jurisdiction and so on, can be registered once it has passed the safety inspection. Should the vehicle have no serial number, or VIN tag, one is assigned for you here.
Since it appears likely that your car was driven on the street, if you know what state it was last driven in you might be able to get them to do a search for whatever number you have. That is the starting point for registration here. If you have success with that, you can probably use that old registration to get you started.
And something else that will help is the bill of sale for the vehicle.
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Looks I'll be taking on a trailer to the DMV at some point.......one of my favorite places
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Yeah...I bet. Mine too! ;)
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Chuck
Looks like you have found a great car there, it looks to be in great shape. Keep us posted on your progress.
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Just a couple pics of updates.....stripping it all down, one rusted bolt at a time.
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image14_zpse26ed7b8.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image14_zpse26ed7b8.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image15_zps29d39b6c.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image15_zps29d39b6c.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image16_zps29662111.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image16_zps29662111.jpeg.html)
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From the looks of that clutch she's been sittin' a while! Is that the motor your going to use ?
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From the looks of that clutch she's been sittin' a while! Is that the motor your going to use ?
Yeah that is a real mess!
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You say that's forty plus years of rust you have there, will the engine turn over?
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You say that's forty plus years of rust you have there, will the engine turn over?
Yeah,he needs to just ditch it and get a big block!
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Im hoping to save it. Maybe one of you guys can help me out with this one.....the balancer does not have a 5/8 bolt at the end of it to turn. Any thoughts on how to turn it over by hand. Looks like the end of the crankshaft is not threaded for one either.
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Take 2 of the flywheel bolts out and replace them with some that are 2" long.Stack washers under the heads so that they tighten down.put a piece of pipe or a concrete bar between the bolts and turn it GENTLY,maybe rocking it back and forth.I would pull the plugs and give each cyl a good shot of penetrant.If it were me,I would also remove all the rockers first in case there are any stuck valves. As you remove the rockers,wire the balls and rockers together.Each ball and rocker must be kept together if you plan on re useing them.The pushrods must also be kept in order so they may be reinstalled ONLY on the rocker that they were on.New pushrods may be used on used rockers. Do not turn the motor upside down untill you remove the lifters and tag each one from front to back,left and right.Lifters and respective cam lobes must also be kept together too.If they fall out of the lifter bores and you loose track of where they came from,the lifters and cam cannot be reused togther.You CAN put new lifters on a good used cam however.
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Im hoping to save it. Maybe one of you guys can help me out with this one.....the balancer does not have a 5/8 bolt at the end of it to turn. Any thoughts on how to turn it over by hand. Looks like the end of the crankshaft is not threaded for one either.
Yeah the pit falls of an early small block. The balancers were pressed on and if you are going to reuse the engine you might want to think about threading the crank for locking down the balancer.
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One more thing,You can do the long bolts and washer stack thing on the balacer hub too,but if you slip off or what ever you could bang the balacer ring ang change its relitive position to the hub. These are only pressed together and if they are old or the rubber is a bit rotten they are easy to dislodge.On the other hand if the rubber looks old,cracked and rotten you should throw the balacer away anyhow and get a new one.If you do that you should rebalance the whole motor because the motor is finish balanced at the factort by drilling the balancer.If you are replaceing pistons it will need to be rebalanced to so maybe it doesnt matter.Proper engine building can be a nightmare if only 1 step is skipped.
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You should be able to use a pry bar on the teeth of the flywheel against those two large engine studs, but at least remove the spark plugs and loosen the rockers arms..and oil it up good & let it set before turning. You might need to turn the flywheel back and forth.
I see PowerPac heads...run any of the numbers on the engine?
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I need to find another engine stand first. right now it is sitting on a tire on the floor of the garage. But yes I did run the numbers on this motor in it is a late '58 to '59. On my budget for this build, I may end up selling the motor and find a running 350 somewhere. Again, I need to pop off the heads and sell what everything looks like. It appears to have the original starter, carb, dizzy and water pump. So maybe the is an Elky owner looking for an all original 283 somewhere....and I may get lucky.
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Back to the VIN's. I came across a vin that reads 5FC-40-xxxxx. It is my under stand that the numbers in the middle portion of the VIN represent the month of manufacture. Is it possible to have "40" as a month? Would it not look something like this.....
Jan 01
Feb 02
Mar 03
Sept 09
Dec 12
Chuck
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Chuck36
Where are you located, I have a buddy who has a running 283 that he is going to scrap, he thinks nobody would want it, I can probably talk him out of it if your interested.
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I'm in Connecticut....and I can certainly use it
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I need to find another engine stand first. right now it is sitting on a tire on the floor of the garage. But yes I did run the numbers on this motor in it is a late '58 to '59. On my budget for this build, I may end up selling the motor and find a running 350 somewhere. Again, I need to pop off the heads and sell what everything looks like. It appears to have the original starter, carb, dizzy and water pump. So maybe the is an Elky owner looking for an all original 283 somewhere....and I may get lucky.
good luck on your engine search, and it would be nice to use the 283 if you can...John
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Another update....
With the body off the frame, the frame has been sand blasted, mostly painted and I am in the process of installing my Fatman MII kits, Chassis Engineering rear end kits and my Chassis Engineering tranny and motor mounts.
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image81_zps21417136.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image81_zps21417136.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image82_zpsf8518f46.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image82_zpsf8518f46.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image88_zps32accf15.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image88_zps32accf15.jpeg.html)
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Hey Chuck, that frame looks real nice and it sounds like you are going state of the art.
How did you make out with the engine?
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Engine was frozen.....I ended up selling it to a guy who wanted a matching 283 for his '59 Apache. Ironically enough I bought back a running 283 which can out of my '59 apache which I sold to a friend for his '57 Chevy Truck about 3 years ago. He never got around to installing it and has been sitting on his engine stand. MY '59 Apache currently has a 383 in her.......
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/Apache/truck_zps887105df.jpg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/Apache/truck_zps887105df.jpg.html)
And here is the 283 I am planning on putting in the coupe...
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image89_zps86ba0786.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image89_zps86ba0786.jpeg.html)
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Nice work! I wish my frame was derusted and ready to go. I'm not a big small block fan, though I have 4 vehicles with 350s, But I make an exception for 283s and 327s. I can't explain it. ::)
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A friend of mine came by and we got the crossmember and shock towers all welded up. Check alignment without having to put the body back on by hanging a running board and fender. Working on placement of the motor mounts, tranny mounts and radiator shell support next.
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image107_zps470daa6c.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image107_zps470daa6c.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image115_zps969ce3ef.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image115_zps969ce3ef.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image112_zps8e4f7c8f.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image112_zps8e4f7c8f.jpeg.html)
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Chuck I went back and read up on your progress and see where you found an engine, if your still interested in the 283 my friend has I will check on it for you . I'm sorry I missed your reply back when I made the first offer.
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That is looking real good. I like the transmission choice.
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Chuck
Where did you get the engine motor mount set from? Seen them advertised around - sure would be a lot easier moving the engine forward or back and general setup.
I need to relocate the mounts in my sons 37 sedan, they are welded on the inside of the frame rails and one is about 1/4" higher that the other! Already have the universal trans support out..that was angled wrong.
Ed
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That looks real nice Chucks36, I like those motor mounts too, looks like easy install.
Ghost, what is that trans?
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The motor mounts and tranny crossmember came from Chassis Engineering. CE had reference points on the frame to hang the motor mounts so that it is centered between the firewall and radiator. The transmission is a World Class T5 from a Late 80's-early 90's Camaro with a S-10 tail stock.
I'm good with the 283 shown in the pics but thanks for your offer. I'm planning on swapping out the powerpack heads for a set of heads of an 8o's 305 and installing a cam to when I get around to it.
....and I apologize for leaving you guys hangin'
Chuck
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Hey Chuck. Why did you put the tail end from the s10 truck on the camaro trans? Was it for the shifter location? The reason I ask is I am using a 89 camaro trans with the stock tail section, and my shifter sits in the perfect spot for my build. Just curious ???
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Yes, I swapped out the tail sections due to the shifter being too far back. By my calculations there is about a 10" difference between the Camaro tail and the S-10 Tail. I think if I was opting for bucket seats it may work but I am opting for a bench seat.
Chuck
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Looking real good Chuck!
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Any more pics, this is moving along nicely.
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Yea I'd liked to see some more also
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Made a little progress since my last post...but not much. Waiting on the CE shock plates to come in so I can work on buttoning up the rear
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image126_zps5e056d9d.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image126_zps5e056d9d.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image127_zpsd0c2fe84.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image127_zpsd0c2fe84.jpeg.html)
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Chuck, it's looking great!
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Looks darn nice.
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It's looking good!!
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Shes a roller!!!.Drive shaft should be done in a couple days.....I have some plumbing to rough-in and one sma;; body repair before it goes back on the chassis.
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image135_zps2596f666.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image135_zps2596f666.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image134_zps15fe4bbe.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image134_zps15fe4bbe.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image133_zps2b5da59f.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image133_zps2b5da59f.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image137_zpsc8e3fa09.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image137_zpsc8e3fa09.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image136_zps85d481d2.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image136_zps85d481d2.jpeg.html)
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Looking good... You have come a long way on your project ,Is that Chassis Enginerring Motor mounts? cross member also looks like CE,,,,, And where did you get your fuel tank from....thanks for the photos give me some motivation...LOL
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Real nice, I can't wait to see it on the chassis. That will be a large step in it's evolution.
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Thanks guys.....it's the original tank that has been sandblasted inside(best as possible)and out, sealed on the inside and POR15 on the outer.
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That is really well done, very clean. ;)
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Your tank looks like new on the outside, and rest of the frame is shaping up.
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Very nice, congrats on getting it to roller stage. That's a big step.
Tom
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Looks nice, Chucks, can't wait to see the body back on.
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Who is the rear shock mounting bar from? I ask because I have the same bar in my inventory that was ordered for a 36 coupe.
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That's part of the CE kit which included the springs, hangers, shackles, shocks, U-bolts, lower shock plate..Etc. Both my tranny and engine mounts are both CE......looking at it now my steering shaft(s) may be tricky due to the engine mounts.
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looking at it now my steering shaft(s) may be tricky due to the engine mounts.
Steering has always been a little tricky, and my roadster since I built headers for it will be a job. Thank God and borgeson for steering joints,
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Latest progress...finished up the chassis and we threw the body back on last night. That went so well that we pushed our luck with the motor/trans....had no issues with that either.
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image145_zpsgcrratza.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image145_zpsgcrratza.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image147_zps4evx6n1q.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image147_zps4evx6n1q.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image151_zpstptx9tje.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image151_zpstptx9tje.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image155_zpsbpwbyo3o.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image155_zpsbpwbyo3o.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image157_zpsmnwurg0c.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image157_zpsmnwurg0c.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image156_zpsppfkiyzv.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image156_zpsppfkiyzv.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image159_zpsnirlusft.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image159_zpsnirlusft.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image161_zps5jbhy1cj.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image161_zps5jbhy1cj.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image163_zps5lzcqkor.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image163_zps5lzcqkor.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image162_zpsqwnksgeq.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image162_zpsqwnksgeq.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image164_zps24plumzj.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image164_zps24plumzj.jpeg.html)
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Nice work Chuck! That's a huge step. It's got to give you a little incentive to continue. Great pics.
Tom
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Looks great...I always loved that body style. Can't wait to see the completed project.
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nice progress ! thats going to be a sweet ride !
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It feels good to see it come together doesn't it. nice job
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That's a very large step. It looks like you guy were having a blast. When did the beer break out?
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That will be fun to drive. Good work.
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That looks great Chuck36, big progress!!
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I appreciate all the kudo's. Working on the front floor/toe boards right now. removing the old ones and waiting for my order from EMS to come in. Lots of holes in the firewall which need to be welded up as well.
Chuck
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Quick up date.....while waiting for the front floors to come in I started prepping the firewall to weld up all the holes. Also cleaned up the front fenders and grill shell with a 1:1 ratio of CLR to water. Going on a month waiting for my floors to come in from EMS. Getting the run around pretty good from these clowns.
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image171_zpskol1ikcp.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image171_zpskol1ikcp.jpeg.html)
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Looking good and making progress.
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Update......I dont know which was more tedious.....drilling out all the rivets in the frame or filling in 50+ holes in the firewall.
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image185_zpsu72badwp.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image185_zpsu72badwp.jpeg.html)
Still need to shoot a base coat of primer on it here soon.
Scored a mint set of original early mustang buckets at a spring swap meet here in Connecticut this past Spring. Had some 3/16 "C" channel bent up and got those mounted.
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image183_zpsobn89esi.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image183_zpsobn89esi.jpeg.html)
Now I'm moving onto a whole group of things somewhat at the same time.....cause you kinda have to.....toe boards, steering, pedals, e-brake, exhaust.....
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image186_zpslnayogud.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image186_zpslnayogud.jpeg.html)
It's really starting to get fun now!!!
Chuck
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Nice score on the seats. Coming along and looking great!
Tom
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Your seats look great just the right size. I'm thinking about what type of bucket seats to put in my 32. What I would really like to find is a set of four matching and put a small console from front to back. I'm just not sure if that would be practicable.
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Looks like you making great progress...I love the look of new sheet metal :)
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Looks like you are moving right along. The floorboards look great.
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Thanks All.......floors are just laying in position right now. I'm throwing the motor/trans back in on Saturday Morning to see if I need a tunnel or not on the center section. Then I'll start plug welding the floors and get the glove box section back into the dash now that I have repaired it.
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Threw the motor/trans back in and started working on the parking brake and steering. I made a bracket which bolts to my T5 which allows me to bolt my OEM parking brake handle too.
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image195_zpsc3caefhk.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image195_zpsc3caefhk.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image196_zpsshtbiore.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image196_zpsshtbiore.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image197_zpseqclx6jx.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image197_zpseqclx6jx.jpeg.html)
Bought a Speedway steering column and a mount from ididit. which still allowed me to use the pedal access panel.
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image198_zps3unzprfh.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image198_zps3unzprfh.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image199_zpscj865hsv.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image199_zpscj865hsv.jpeg.html)
Got sick of looking at the glove box patch today and started welding that in.....but no pics
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Nice work...I like what I see...Keep um coming!!!!
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That's some nice ideas and work. That's my favorite collumn from speedway nice price and easy to install almost anywhere. Your Miller welder looks a lot like my old 110 model. I hope the damn thing never wears out.
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Nice !!! using the old parking brake, the column looks great. I really like your ideal with the dash.
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Nice work. I like the E-brake bracket. I have to do something similar for the T-85 that will be in my roadster.
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Thanks all. I do have an issue with Speedways column......The splines on the shaft and the splines on the detachable hub are way out of spec. I can rock my steering wheel close to 1/8 back and forth when I grab it on opposite ends. This one is going back....for a replacement because I do like every thing else about it.
It may look like I am doing some modifications to the dash but I am just patching in a new glove box opening due to the original one being rusted through.
Welder is a Miller sidekick 110....it has suited most of my needs so far.
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Looks like a sweet find and one heck of a solid body! I look forward to watching and hearing about your build.
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Welder is a Miller sidekick 110....it has suited most of my needs so far.
That's what my welder is. I bought it cheap about 25 years ago, and have used it to weld brackets on snow plow blades, frames, and so on. With it being only 110 power, it's really amazing.
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Updates. Have my wheel/tire combo dialed in.......
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image204_zpstz23z4dy.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image204_zpstz23z4dy.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image205_zps5fdj9lpa.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image205_zps5fdj9lpa.jpeg.html)
Floors are welded in and painted.....
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image203_zpseavqeu2c.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image203_zpseavqeu2c.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image202_zpslcxsslxt.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image202_zpslcxsslxt.jpeg.html)
Wedled in the patch panel on the dash, primed it and the firewall...
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image201_zpsqspwq1cj.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image201_zpsqspwq1cj.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image200_zpsj4iub4xd.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image200_zpsj4iub4xd.jpeg.html)
Now working on getting the motor/trans assembled and married up so I can work out my clutch pedal, steering and headers
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Looks like you are making progress on your build, you are doing a good iob....
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Sure is looking good, Chuck36!!
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lookin good, like the wheel and tire combo fits the rear fenders great
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Gettin' closer........some plumbing left under the hood, exhaust,painting the firewall and dash and she should be ready to fire.....maybe a couple months after that she'll be road worthy.
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image77_zpsobqyb5pq.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image77_zpsobqyb5pq.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image78_zpspfmyjfp0.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image78_zpspfmyjfp0.jpeg.html)
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Looks really great. The best part of a build is hearing them come to life for the first time. Looking forward to hearing how it went.
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Chuck that's going to be a great looking car!
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Looking forward to seeing more progress. Keep at it.
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Chuck, nice progress. It's fun when you can see the light at the end of the tunnel :D
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Looks good, Chuck. You have to have that on the road by summer!
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I'm sure your getting excited about getting this close to firing it up
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Elvis has left the building.........under its own power since the early to mid 60's. Not much left to do now....install seat belts, running boards ans exhaust. and for some reason I cant get my thermostat to open......may just be air in the system.
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image249_zps9hbsgq3y.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image249_zps9hbsgq3y.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image246_zpss4vw9gci.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image246_zpss4vw9gci.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image248_zpsflnw5tuc.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image248_zpsflnw5tuc.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image247_zpsemndfngz.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image247_zpsemndfngz.jpeg.html)
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Congrats Chuck! That's a big step. It's fun from here ;D
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That car is a sweetheart ..just the way it is.
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Thanks guys.......forgot to add that I have to CLR the rest of the car. If you look at the first pic you can see that I cleaned the body with CLR from the hood forward vs. the back half of the car which is loaded with 80 years of oxidation.
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That car is so cool. congrats on getting it to move on it's own again. Try drilling asmall 16th inch hole on the outer edge of the thermostat to relieve any air, and let the fluids through when filling to purge the system
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Yeah, I've had success in the past drilling a small hole in the T-stat. That will probably be my first remedy If I cant burp it with just the radiator cap open
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Glad to see it is under its own power and moving
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Great, Chuck!!! You must feel like the "king"!!
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Lol.......another shot after the running boards indtalled
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image250_zpspf3jw6og.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image250_zpspf3jw6og.jpeg.html)
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Sweeeeeeeet ;D
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I like that car and with the patina still intact makes it even cooler.
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Looking real good Chuck! :)
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That's what I'm talkin about!!!! NICE
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Wadya know.......she cleaned up pretty nice too. I think my thread has run its course. This is how she will appear, I'm guessing, for a number of years or until I get sick of looking at at. I just want to thank everybody for their encouragement from day one. Hope to meet up with you fellow nutmeggers some day on the road.
Chuck
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image251_zpsqjtivxeo.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image251_zpsqjtivxeo.jpeg.html)
(http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b403/cwc1965/coupe/image252_zpsbco3if7x.jpeg) (http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/cwc1965/media/coupe/image252_zpsbco3if7x.jpeg.html)
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Good luck with it, hope all your miles are safe and fun :)
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Enjoyi it........you can always do something on it
later
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Good luck, Chuck36, but my prediction is it won't be long before you start doing more to her.