Rusty Bowtie

General Category => General Discussion - Intros => Topic started by: EDNY on January 10, 2013, 02:15:58 PM

Title: Parking brake cables - modifying length?
Post by: EDNY on January 10, 2013, 02:15:58 PM

Just picked up a NOS GM truck parking lever, you older guys probably remember them on the bigger trucks. I always liked them because you could just turn the nob to adjust the cable tension inside the vehicle.  Well anyway just bought one on eBay for $9.95 plus shipping. Would like to find another :P

My 33 (5W) coupe has a 2001 S10 xtreme 10 bolt rear end. Have the orignal parking cables that look new. I need to shorten them and mount them in the "center" of the floor to meet up with my park lever cable.

Before I start cutting - looking for any cable shortening and mounting ideas.

Thanks

Title: Re: Parking brake cables - modifying length?
Post by: themoose on January 10, 2013, 03:57:56 PM

Ed

I've used ends like these https://www.wolfgangint.com/store/product/emergency-brake-cable-shortening-kit-6609702/ (https://www.wolfgangint.com/store/product/emergency-brake-cable-shortening-kit-6609702/) and used an equalizer something like the one pictured below to hook stock cables to a floor mounted handle. Just mount your handle where you want it and make up a cable with one of the threaded adapters on each end and the length for you need to the go to the point where  the equalizer will be. Cut your cables coming from each rear wheel to meet at that point add 2 more ends and hook everything up.You should be good to go. You can make a bracket to mount the handle on the transmission like I did or mount it to the floor.

(https://www.wolfgangint.com/uploaded/thumbnails/db_file_img_5462_500xauto.jpg)(http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/BOBCAT5544/2009-07-22_165505_2003_sub_1500_pb.gif)

Title: Re: Parking brake cables - modifying length?
Post by: EDNY on January 10, 2013, 04:35:52 PM

Looking at the pics, I may use one of the threaded adapters by drilling straight through the set screw hole, then loop the cable and secure with a cable clamp..then it can't slip past the set screw.  The other end of that cable needs to have the OEM pressed on cylinder slug (which I have).   So I have the lever cable  figured out.

Now where the two rear cables meet in the center I may just overlap them and use a couple of cable clamps again. I'll make a curved equalizer bracket and that will support the two crossing cable and have a center tab that the threaded adapter can pass through to pull the rear cable uniformly.

Thanks..I have it in my head anyway!

Ed