[madmike3435]

Cause I want to do it once and be done with it.
Safer also.

ACTUALLY THAT MISCONCEPTION IS WRONG.......METAL TO METAL IS WEAKER THAN WOOD TOO METAL.

THE WOOD ALLOWS THE METAL TO SPRING BACK AND ACTUALLY OFFERS RESISTANCE TO BENDING AND STAYING BENT.

A TEST ON A 1930 MODEL A FORD WITH 1500 POUNDS WEIGHT ON THE FRONT RIGHT CORNER CAUSED THE WINDSHIELD FRAME TO BEND, THE GLASS BREAK AND THE DOOR POST BEND.   NONE OF THE ABOVE HAPPENED TO THE WOOD RE-INFORCED 1930 CHEVROLET.

GOOGLE IT

MIKE   

[sammons]

To each his own. I did it for these reasons (pics) and NHRH dosen't allow harwood roll bars.   I'm better with steel than wood.

Mikes right on quiet solid sound to door closings and wood does absorb/muffel road noise. Wood structure does do well in loads and twisting returns.  But when my butt is strapped in, I want as much steel around me as practical.  Both will be done after a hard crash, but  I want to have the best chance I can to walk away after. But thats just me.

[Rattiac]

Yeah, I would like to take mine to the drags a few times just for fun. Doubt I'd pass tech the way it is. 

[Rattiac]

That was fast!!!  Ordered it Wednesday night.
Burnouts soon to come. 

[Rattiac]

Ahh. I guess I do have an update.
 

1600 miles. 

[Rattiac]

So I had a dream the other day. It was a really good dream.
My car was on "fast and loud" . I told them I didn't want the body changed in any other way than the rust fixed and painted (near) original . Not totally original paint but slightly customized.
At the end of the episode where they tell what was done to the car, it had.........

Black fenders with a very slight metal flake and the body was done in a really dark candy blue, black body line/top . Black Cloth convertible for the top with a slider type deal.
Interior done in dark cherry brown leather seats and tan cloth walls, black carpet.
Rolling stock was big radial whitewalls, same wheels in black of course and newly chromed Pontiac hub caps.
Suspension received a nice riding IFS in front and lowered 1.5"
Drivetrain was treated to a roots blower for the GN 3.8 engine and overdrive transmission.
As my car was sitting there rotating T.V. style in all it's beauty and shinyness .....
I woke up !!!!

Man that was a good dream.

[ghost28]

Dreams have a way of coming true.HOPE HOPE HOPE.

[sixball]

An what would you do with the car you own now? 

[EDNY]

Just to help with the wood versus metal framing discussion...just thought I would toss this auction out:

It's for a "wood welder"

http://www.auctionsinternational.com/auction/9875/item/workrite-wood-welder-59835

[Rattiac]

I've been seeing some metallic blacks on newer vehicles that look pretty interesting.
The dream was interesting cause I never had a vision on what the car looked like finished.
Now I have a good idea of what I want.

[Rattiac]

Just when I thought I had all the oil leaks fixed another poped its ugly head. Looks like it's coming from the oil pressure sending unit again.
I need to find something better to seal the copper elbow going to the sender.

[Rattiac]

Mounted the original horn near the factory location .
Ha,ha I got it working. Its sooo LOUD. 
I probably shouldn't be hitting this with 12volts. I need to figure out how to get it down to 6volts, so it sounds right.

Also getting ready to do a "total timing" on the 231 V6.
Any advice on that ?

[chopper526]

A super-quick ebay search came up with this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-to-6V-DC-DC-Buck-Converter-Step-Down-Module-Power-Supply-Voltage-Regulato-H1-/282333107446?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275

I'm sure you will find exactly what you need for that horn without a problem.
Total timing... I defer to Moose and maybe one of his "tech tips".

[Rattiac]

I did find something small that they use for 6v gauges, I may try one of those.

I've read probably a hundred different threads on "total timing" enough to confuse myself again.

[themoose]

Jeff...There are all sorts of variables that determine what an engine needs for total timing. Camshaft grind, compression ratio,fuel mixture and delivery system, distributor centrifugal weights and springs and also how the engine will be used as in normal street driving verses racing where for full advance at and above a certain RPM range must be considered. If the engine is stock and you will be using it for all around street style driving I would I would just set the timing as per GM specs. Set the initial timing and the total timing will take care of itself. There is always a lot of discussion about whether you should use ported of manifold vacuum for distributor advance and if you look at my tech post on the subject (Timing and Vacuum Advance 101) you'll probably get some good insight as to why manifold vacuum makes most sense and why and if I remember correctly the stock Pontiac did use manifold vacuum as per their diagram. I would guess that you should have somewhere around 36 to 38 degrees total advance but depending on driveability concerns such as pinging you might have to "Tweak" the timing to suite your needs. I've found that when you using an engine for applications other that how it was designed you have to play around with timing and see what works best for your application. Have fun!!

Moose