[FATnLOW]

Have  you checked rear end for broken teeth on ring and pinion......Are your wheels lug nuts tight...Just a thought..

[62131]

Yes that's normal, what you are feeling is the back lash in the gears. I'm assuming you have the vehicle up on jack stands and no weight on the wheels.

[vette59jdwl]

My GMC sierra does exa the hoist  ctly that when its up on the hoist  i thought that was normal

[munch]

Yes it is up on the lift.

[chopper526]

Munch, I think if there is nothing obvious when you inspect underneath the car and iyou still have that mush play from the rear with the driveshaft out, I think the next best thing to do is to inspect the ring and pinion and get a backlash reading with a dial indicator (I think 6 to 10 thousandths). I know it's a PITA, but if you don't think it's right and you have checked everything else.......

[munch]

What I get myself into!!!

[chopper526]

No, no, no! Munch, if this is the biggest problem you have with the car you are doing great. You know how this stuff is, you just have to figure it out. In a week or so you will be like duh, that was easy.

[themoose]

Munch

The TCC is the torque converter lock up clutch. The 200R4 and 700R4 has a solenoid that is controlled by a 4th gear pressure switch . Depending on governor and line pressure the solenoid will command the torque converter clutch on or off so that it goes from a fluid coupling to a mechanical coupling between the engine and transmission. The idea behind it is to give you better fuel economy by limiting torque converter slippage. I have seen occasions where either the pressure switch or solenoid are not working properly and the converter will either lock or unlock at the wrong speed/pressure and cause a clunk in the drivetrain. There are a number of ways that the system is controlled on stock applications with the later versions being controlled by either the PCM or BCM depending on application. On earlier models it's usually controlled by a brake switch so that it automatically disengages when you hit the brake. Most guys, including me just hook it up to a toggle switch that allows you to turn in on and off when needed like when you are on the highway and turn it off completely when cruising around town. You can run a later transmission without having the TCC hooked up without a problem but with earlier transmissions you can cause internal damage to the transmission if you drive too long with the TCC unlocked at higher loads. If you look at Jef Lynches tech topic I believe that he has some info on the subject. This is most likely not your problem but its worth looking into.

Moose
   

[munch]

Thanks all.

[FATnLOW]

Munch...did you figure out the THUD problem??

[munch]

Thanks for asking, I went ahead and used the Bowler Tru-shift cable setup and after installation I did the WOT twice like the instruction said.  This allows the cable to auto set up.  I then took it for a ride and reported the problem with the thud.

A day or so later I went to start it and always do the WOT thing before starting the car, and I noticed the cable ratcheted again as if setting up.  Apparently it had not set up correctly the first time.  I took it out, it shifted good and no thud.

I had already talked to tech support and they had given me an adjustment I could use, but didn't need it.

[chopper526]

Munch, maybe I missed something in the thread or I am just not familiar with this transmission? What is the Bowler Tru-shift and WOT?

[62131]

Chopper I believe the WOT is wide open throttle.

[chopper526]

Oh, ok, I'm missing it I guess, but that's nothing new

[munch]

Wide open throttle is correct, here is the link for the Tru-Shift.

http://bowlertransmissions.com/p/64/tru-shift-throttle-correction-arm-system