Rusty Bowtie
General Category => General Discussion - Intros => Topic started by: munch on April 15, 2021, 05:52:39 PM
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The fan stopped working on my 30, so I began troubleshooting all the wiring for power and continuity. Everything checked out , so I decided to bypass the other stuff and put 12 volts straight to the fan to see if that was bad. I put 12 volts directly to the pigtail red and black wires coming from the fan and nothing. I assumed the fan went bad.
I bought another and decided to test it the same way before installing. Same results, nothing. Seems simple, what am I missing? Thanks guys
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Yep that's pretty simple, did you check to make sure you had 12 volts
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I hope you figure it out. That is one reason I've always used mechanical fans. If the engine is spinning, so is the fan.
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Yep that's pretty simple, did you check to make sure you had 12 volts
Yes I did.
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I hope you figure it out. That is one reason I've always used mechanical fans. If the engine is spinning, so is the fan.
Thanks Tom, I admit I'm puzzled...
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Yep that's pretty simple, did you check to make sure you had 12 volts
Yes I did.
Well with 12 volts and a good ground ???
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Munch, when put a direct 12v to the fan it should work. Like 62131 said, double check: good power source, good ground, new fan?....it should work. If the fan is new, any chance it could be bad? You can do a continuity test to make sure the fan is good.
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That is what I hate about electricity, you can not see it flow like gas, water, and oil unless you uses some kind of complicated tool. Then you don't know if the part is broken or the tool. The closest I can get is a "spark" test. :o Could there be some kind of internal switch?
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That is what I hate about electricity, you can not see it flow like gas, water, and oil unless you uses some kind of complicated tool. Then you don't know if the part is broken or the tool. The closest I can get is a "spark" test. :o Could there be some kind of internal switch?
I don't know, I guess so. The only wires coming out of the fan are a black and red and that tells me hot and ground. I put a test light in the connection, and I am sending it 12 volts.
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That is what I hate about electricity, you can not see it flow like gas, water, and oil unless you uses some kind of complicated tool. Then you don't know if the part is broken or the tool. The closest I can get is a "spark" test. :o Could there be some kind of internal switch?
I don't know, I guess so. The only wires coming out of the fan are a black and red and that tells me hot and ground. I put a test light in the connection, and I am sending it 12 volts.
If you verified 12 volts that sounds like bad fan, this might be a stupid question but is it a 12 volt fan?
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That is what I hate about electricity, you can not see it flow like gas, water, and oil unless you uses some kind of complicated tool. Then you don't know if the part is broken or the tool. The closest I can get is a "spark" test. :o Could there be some kind of internal switch?
I don't know, I guess so. The only wires coming out of the fan are a black and red and that tells me hot and ground. I put a test light in the connection, and I am sending it 12 volts.
If you verified 12 volts that sounds like bad fan, this might be a stupid question but is it a 12 volt fan?
Yes it is. I was using a test light as an extension of the power lead so I could verify with the light. I took this out attached the power lead directly and it worked. I thought putting the test light as an extension of the power lead would do just that. Apparently not. What am I missing?
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Is your test light the type that has a bulb in the handle with a ice pick type probe and a wire with a alligator clip on it
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Is your test light the type that has a bulb in the handle with a ice pick type probe and a wire with a alligator clip on it
Yes it is
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Is your test light the type that has a bulb in the handle with a ice pick type probe and a wire with a alligator clip on it
Yes it is
Is the light LED or incandescent
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Like the jumper wire, the 12 volt test light is used to isolate opens in circuits. But, whereas the jumper wire is used to bypass the open to operate the load, the 12 volt test light is used to locate the presence of voltage in a circuit and will not operate a load as in your case an electric motor.
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Munch...let us know the outcome..
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Munch...let us know the outcome..
Thanks guys, Moose was right. I took the test light out of the equation and the fan worked. Learn something all the time.
On another note, the 53 3100 build is coming along nicely. I fired that boy up and the LS sounds awesome...
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Good. on both points!
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Glad to hear you figured it out. Post some pics of the 53 3100. Would like to see how it looks!
Tom