Rusty Bowtie
General Category => General Discussion - Intros => Topic started by: Rattiac on September 10, 2014, 09:04:38 PM
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This winter im looking at replacing my steering box. I try to keep things original but if its a safety thing, then it gets replaced.
Here's what im looking at . If I go vega or other I have to keep a bit of space between the box and this rod (wich is for the ride control) .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-079_zps9d1a84bd.jpg)
Closer pic of the rod for ride control .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-078_zps646259cb.jpg)
Please school me on whats available or what would work. Oh and if I could , Id like to keep the original cloumn and steering wheel if at all possible. Any pics would be helpful .
:)
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On the vega steering box your steering would have to be converted to cross steer, but with a reversed corvair box then you could stay with the traditional steering on your chevy. As for your collumn and wheel. If you cut your old box off and then trim the outside sleeve back a few inches to expose the inner steering bar, and put a brass bushing of bearing in the bottom of the tube to align everything, then the exposed area of the center shaft could be made to except a borgeson or like style joint to finish up the connection to the new box. I did the same thing on a vega box in a 28 chevy for cross steer, but it should work the same.
Just a thought...John
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Cool thanks Ghost :) . That helps alot. This will be my winter project on the car . Maybe this x-mas santa will bring me a reversed box . Im gonna have a get under the car and do some thinkin on how to get around that rod or move it somehow . I have a few months to plan this out.
I dig the steelwork done on your doors. Hopefully I can get some steelwork done to mine after the steering. We'll see . ;D
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After Halloween the car is getting put sideways in the back of the shop to prepare for this.
Also need to burn up my bias-plys to make way for some radials. Ive decided to hold off on new white-walls for awhile till I get some more cosmetic work done . Blackwalls are cheaper , plus I can spend the money elswhere and radials will be more highway friendly for me.
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Had on question about the stock box. Is it clamped to the column tube (the bolt makes me think so) .
Once unbolted will it slide out ??? Or will I have to cut it as close to the box as possible.
Doing some mock-up to make a gameplan .
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Yes..On mine I could remove the mast jacket by releasing the clamp...Here's a diagram.
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Rattiac ::: how about this for a winter project maybe practise on the old bias-ply tires.sure would save coin for that steering box.By the way have you ever considered rack and pinion steering
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkcm3rh60p0
vette59jdwl
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Rattiac check this one out , i think there is something interesting here for you vette 59jdwl
http://martzchassis.net/62-67-nova/1962-67-nova-front-installation/
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Ghost; what was the diameter of the shaft coming out of the column ????
Just getting an idea of the parts I need to order.
On the original column it has a big bolt just before the clamp. I have the clamp loose but the big bolt/nut thingy wont budge . I was hoping to not cut the column and maybe use a existing bushing for the end when I do cut it up higher.
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on the 28 collumn I believe it was 1 inch, maybe 3/4. but I have slept since then.
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I'm probably going to cut the column, so I don't have to take the dash apart right now . Thats another project after the steering.
Maybe you guys can identify this wire coming out of the steering box. I wanna say its the horn wire but why would it be screwed into the box. Anyway I thought it would be cool if I could save the horn wire .
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HOW ABOUT IF THAT WIRE IS THE GROUND WIRE FOR THE HORN BUTTON AND THE POSITIVE IS RUN TO THE HORN BUTTON WITH A FUSE AND THEN GOES TO THE HORN. vette59jdwl
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Ghost. I may have to connect 2 D-shafts to the box. What did you use or what can I use to change the angle (pivot point).
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Why not check the continuity between the steering box and the wire to see if they are connected to each other or if it runs thru the center of the column for the horn
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I have a rack but this may help you. I went from a D to a spline and then a u-joint and support bearing to change the angle. Here's a couple of pics. I did adjust the support bearing so it was aligned better with the shaft than it is in the picture.
Tom
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Ghost. I may have to connect 2 D-shafts to the box. What did you use or what can I use to change the angle (pivot point).
I used a double universal joint from the box. I did have to use 2 heim joints on my shafts to keep everything solid and not let it flip around. The only reason I had to get so creative was because of those >:( damn headers
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Cool. Thank you. Now I got a better idea of what I need to do once the box is mounted. 8)
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Ghost, I've been looking at your pic #2 . I guess the drag link dosent have to go directly over the tierod. ???
Cause my Pittman arm bolt hole would be off an inch, compared to the tie rod.
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I was looking at the Borgenson website and it said....
Any car over 2500lbs should be using a Saginaw 525 box and NOT a Vega box.
Wished I would have seen this info earlier. Just when you think you've done your research.
What do your guy's cars weigh that are using Vega boxes????
My guess is a Saginaw would be too big to fit where I needed it anyway.
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You will be fine. I have used them under heavy Hemi cars and a coule of 2900 lb plus cars with no problems.