[62131]

Mike,

You think I would be better to go with a mechanical pump?

I'm running a mechanical fuel pump on my 38 and I've got a mechanical fuel pump on my 32 which fit in the frame rail with no problem.

[madmike3434]

mechanical pumps can be a lot less hassle than electrics.  Not sure what stock pressure a factory mechanical pump puts out for street use ??

ANYBODY KNOW ANSWER.   ?

My stewart warner A240 12volt that's pressure adjustable is sometimes a pain in the A hole.  Even tho I have the pressure set at the guage with a holly pressure regulator that's also adjustable.  Many times while its warming up it exceeds the 5 pounds pressure I prefer its set too.  On the old crank and chrome tv show with sam and dave, they recommended 5 1/2 pounds on carbs for street.  Just one of those things that's stuck with me.

 What does that do, it causes the float arms on the holley when exceeding 6 pounds to bend, then you have to pull the side inspection plugs and adjust the floats down .  You will know when they are bent as you get a blackish smoke out tail pipes and stench of raw gasoline, from running way to rich by floats being too high.  Holley's are very , very temperamental  that way.

With my 35 chevy roadster build , am planning a ZZ383 425 hp 460 torque crate motor, induction system will be a fast Freddie 48 IDF down draft webers.  Max pressure recommended on those is 3 1/2 pounds pressure.  I have a holley 1-4 pound regulator for it.

mike           

[themoose]

Summit has a movie on about Electric vs Mechanical fuel pumps.

You can watch it here

 

[ghost28]

If it will fit in the frame area, I think the stock mechanical pump should work just fine. I bought a stock mechanical pump that was originally for an early corvette injected engine, and like some other pumps, it  has the ability to be clocked for line fitting.

[62131]

mechanical pumps can be a lot less hassle than electrics.  Not sure what stock pressure a factory mechanical pump puts out for street use ??

ANYBODY KNOW ANSWER.   ?

My stewart warner A240 12volt that's pressure adjustable is sometimes a pain in the A hole.  Even tho I have the pressure set at the guage with a holly pressure regulator that's also adjustable.  Many times while its warming up it exceeds the 5 pounds pressure I prefer its set too.  On the old crank and chrome tv show with sam and dave, they recommended 5 1/2 pounds on carbs for street.  Just one of those things that's stuck with me.

I put a mechanical on my 38 that has a Edlebrock 600 and was told by Edlebrock that it should be supplied by a pump that put out no more than 6lbs of pressure, I did some checking on fuel pumps and found they come with different flow rates and different pressure ratings pressures.

 What does that do, it causes the float arms on the holley when exceeding 6 pounds to bend, then you have to pull the side inspection plugs and adjust the floats down .  You will know when they are bent as you get a blackish smoke out tail pipes and stench of raw gasoline, from running way to rich by floats being too high.  Holley's are very , very temperamental  that way.

With my 35 chevy roadster build , am planning a ZZ383 425 hp 460 torque crate motor, induction system will be a fast Freddie 48 IDF down draft webers.  Max pressure recommended on those is 3 1/2 pounds pressure.  I have a holley 1-4 pound regulator for it.

mike           

[EDNY]

In all fairness to munch...he asked about installing an electric pump...the thread took another direction.  A mechanical pump will work..everyone agrees on that...but his questions was about mounting an electric pump that he already has. He also mentioned that he had an electric pump on the car previously and was just replacing it.

I was in the same situation and read where guys had them mounted on the tank without a problem..so that's how I did mine. 

I have a feeling that the biggest concern in mounting an electric pump is to be sure it always has fuel in it, which acts as a lubricant?  The pumps burn up when dry...so my idea was to position the pump in a way that fuel will always settle inside the pump so it doesn't start dry?  Again..I may be wrong?

The manufacturer intructs you to mount them low or risk failure. I bet failure is a result of dry starts..so could a simple solution like routing the in and out lines higher than the pump be a solution so the fuel rests in the pump

Again....just asking...please be gentle

[ghost28]

The manufacturer intructs you to mount them low or risk failure. I bet failure is a result of dry starts..so could a simple solution like routing the in and out lines higher than the pump be a solution so the fuel rests in the pump

Again....just asking...please be gentle

Hi Ed. The pump he had was a suction type, and the new pump he has is a gravity style that pushes only and needs the fuel in the tank and lines to be higher at all times. I believe that is why it has to be in a lower position than his original.

Hey Munch. Why was you told to get rid if your original pump?

[munch]

It was a cheap Mr. Gasket and I was warned that they were prone to failure.  I did not want to take the chance. 

I have mounted a bar between the frame rails as suggested and got the pump some lower, hope I will be fine.

Thanks guys for all the input.

[munch]

Well after installing my new Holley electric fuel pump I scared myself most to death.  Fill up  with gas and went on a ride, about 15 minutes out I noticed a half a tank reading on the fuel gauge.  Headed home and when I got there, I had 1/4 tank.  After looking I discovered the rubber hose between the filter and stainless line had burst.  I dumped 3/4 of a tank on the muffler and tail pipe.

Any experience with stainless braided hose and push on connectors, or do they make such a thing.  I'm shy of the rubber now.

[62131]

You can have any type of stainless hose made up, I would just make sure that the lining in the braided hose is compatible with gas,and be sure of your fitting sizes.

[munch]

Thanks for all the help guys, I thought I owed you a pic.  Woks great...

[themoose]

Looks great!! Nice work

[madmike3434]

Well after installing my new Holley electric fuel pump I scared myself most to death.  Fill up  with gas and went on a ride, about 15 minutes out I noticed a half a tank reading on the fuel gauge.  Headed home and when I got there, I had 1/4 tank.  After looking I discovered the rubber hose between the filter and stainless line had burst.  I dumped 3/4 of a tank on the muffler and tail pipe.

Any experience with stainless braided hose and push on connectors, or do they make such a thing.  I'm shy of the rubber now.

If You bottomed the braided stainless properly into the fitting , it should not come apart.  That's the only way the fitting and the braided hose can separate.  Note when you push the hose into the aeroquip fitting, look from the open end and see if its bottomed out.  Now take a marker pen and mark the hose where end of the hose goes into the fitting.

If your tightening it up properly that mark should NOT MOVE OUTWARDS.

Its actually fairly easy to not put these together correctly.  once you know the basic steps its easy.  There is also a specific oil for assembly sold by aeroquip dealers like godman

There is one black hose running behind the electric pump, I have no idea where that's going or coming from 

mike         

mike

[madmike3434]

Thanks for all the help guys, I thought I owed you a pic.  Woks great...

Looking at your picture I am trouble figuring out the 2 small lines forward by the shock coming off the front.  Are they steel line or stainless braided lines for

mike

[themoose]

Looks like braided stainless brake lines to me..