Rusty Bowtie
General Category => General Discussion - Intros => Topic started by: EDNY on April 04, 2020, 12:51:13 PM
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After the chop I have a couple of seams like this one. My question is would lead be sufficient to close up and stabilize joints like this or is more welding required? I can put more weld via TIG or MIG.
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Ed, i would weld more. There will probably be some body flex up there. Propper lead job needs to be extremely clean between joints and any flex tend to crack. In a no flex area it might be alright, but i wouldn't chance it personally.
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I agree with SAMMONS, definitely want that joints solid. Any flexing and POP out comes the bondo or CRACK goes the lead.
I think MIG would be best, because you can TACK< TACK TACK in various locations on the seam and switch back and forth side to side. Doing a little at a time so as to reduce any warping. Continuous welding on the seam I think would cause warping. Causing more work than you want. Fill any gaps in the tacks until solid. Going to take some time, TAKE your time.
Lead will crack just as easily as bondo. Altho I prefer lead use because lead is metal and will move , shrink and stretch same as sheet metal and becomes a part of the metal. Bondo just sits on it.
Also I would try to flex the body after the lead is applied and coat of primer on it to see if it will withstand any slight flexing ??????? Reason I say primer because its easier to remove than paint. Bondo really doesn't stick to lead.
What are you chopping ?
mike lynch HAIRBALL
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I agree, any time I have added a patch or replaced, chopped a panel I have welded the seam completely.
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After the chop I have a couple of seams like this one. My question is would lead be sufficient to close up and stabilize joints like this or is more welding required? I can put more weld via TIG or MIG.
I just remembered I saw somebody in a youtube video welding a nascar , body sheet metal to the cage using TIG , but what they used was silicon bronze wire. I used it as filler in some of the frame holes I made exact fit plugs for, on SHAZZBOTT 35 chev roadster.
You may also consider taking the inserted piece, completely removing it , start over and making a TIG weld quality fit. TIG wants a real close fit as does MIG. I know its doing it over and not what you want to hear, but the better the fit , the higher the quality of the welded joint. Last thing you want is to weld it up and a ton more work to do to get a solid piece. Or something easily cracked ?
mike
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Thanks all...I don't have a problem welding it...probably concentrate more with the TIG...I can make smaller, tighter and flatter welds. Did that with the roof panel insert...1/2" at a time!
It was my original intent to do complete seam welds...then noticed that the car panels aren't welded together...but leaded to each other.
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the joints are LAPPED onto each other and factory spot welded, then leaded
My friend frank once gave me a tour of GM here and I saw the guy torch in hand and lead the joint with a beeswax coated paddle . Next stop on the line was a guy with a special lead file smoothing the lead joint with a body hammer on his belt to tap the metal up.
My 35 coupe in 1972 got all redone in lead and I watched Julius the MAD HUNGARIAN do my car. Those same joints and lead are still intact to this day .
mike