[EDNY]

That video downloads and opens automatically on my laptop, but on my desktop it loads very slowly. Might be easier to download and then open it.  Sorry guys...

[munch]

I used Thrush stainless mufflers and 3" in and out pipe all the way (needed low back pressure for my cam setup) When I first started driving it I thought the sound at highway speed was excessive but after a1000 miles it mellowed out and has a nice deep tone with a nice lope at idle. Unfortunately for some unknown reason Thrush stopped offering them a couple of years ago. I have a few friends who run various style of Flowmaster's and I think for the most part they sound pretty nice. There is a video on YouTube where you can get an idea of how each version sounds....Here's the link .

Couple of pic's of my 32's system

Moose,
I see in the picture that your mufflers appear to be the same, or close, height as your running board brackets.  How muck clearance is there from the muffler bottom to the road?

[munch]

I like the deep throaty sound.  Not too loud because being an open car I just like the rumble.  I too am running shorty headers with Hooker Turbo Mufflers.  I went with 2 1/4" tubing, probably should have gone with 2 1/2" but wanted to make sure I had enough clearance because I was going to run tail pipes all the way out to the back.  Leaf springs and the gas tank took up a lot of space.
I had turbo mufflers on my 66 Chevy II with a 283.  I liked the way it sounded that's why went with the above.
Tom

Tom,

How much Clarence is there from the muffler bottom to the road?

Thanks

[TFoch]

Tom,

How much Clarence is there from the muffler bottom to the road?

Thanks

Munch,
I have 8 1/2" of clearance from my shop floor to the bottom of the mufflers.  About 8" to the bottom of the rear running board mount.
Tom

[munch]

Tom,

How much Clarence is there from the muffler bottom to the road?

Thanks

Munch,
I have 8 1/2" of clearance from my shop floor to the bottom of the mufflers.  About 8" to the bottom of the rear running board mount.
Tom

Thanks Tom, I only have 5 inches.  But I see you ran your exhaust pipe above the bottom bar of your transmission support.  Not sure if I can do that because it brings it close to the master cylinder.  Afraid of the heat.  Maybe I can kick it up by wielding a two tight 90s together after the trans mount. 

[themoose]

Sorry I missed you post munch but I measured it today and have 7 inches from the bottom of the muffler to the floor. The rear spring u bolt plates are 5 so the mufflers should be OK.

[munch]

Sorry I missed you post munch but I measured it today and have 7 inches from the bottom of the muffler to the floor. The rear spring u bolt plates are 5 so the mufflers should be OK.

Thanks Moose, I got 5 1/4 so I guess I better find a way to get them up.  I got some ideas.

I need to retire so I'll have more time...

[munch]

Tom,

How much Clarence is there from the muffler bottom to the road?

Thanks

Munch,
I have 8 1/2" of clearance from my shop floor to the bottom of the mufflers.  About 8" to the bottom of the rear running board mount.
Tom

Tom,

I have routed the exhaust above the transmission mount and it looks good, but I think I need some way to protect the master cylinder from the heat.  Any ideas?

[sammons]

Munch sometimes it's easier to build a sheet metal heat shield around the exhaust (if room allows) Or if there is something to bolt it too, a shield around the master cyl.
I make them up all the time, (my buddies diesel/turbo exhaust).  Try to leave around 3/4 to 1" air gap.
Roll out some sheet metal (around 1/2 of the exhaust) and about 2" longer than master cyl. Then make two Z brackets to weld on each inner side. Spay color (header paint to keep from rusting) then glue high heat insulation (aluminium side towards heat) and two hose clamps to fasten.  Opt #2, fab and bolt a shield around side of master.

This is the high heat aluminum insulation we use (you see it alot on diesel firewalls near heat source). You may be able to just use shield with out insulation giving anough air gap. I still have some insulation left if you need some, just let me know and i'll cut you some and send it to you.

Also seen guys use header wrap where clearance was too tight for shield, worked well.

[munch]

Munch sometimes it's easier to build a sheet metal heat shield around the exhaust (if room allows) Or if there is something to bolt it too, a shield around the master cyl.
I make them up all the time, (my buddies diesel/turbo exhaust).  Try to leave around 3/4 to 1" air gap.
Roll out some sheet metal (around 1/2 of the exhaust) and about 2" longer than master cyl. Then make two Z brackets to weld on each inner side. Spay color (header paint to keep from rusting) then glue high heat insulation (aluminium side towards heat) and two hose clamps to fasten.  Opt #2, fab and bolt a shield around side of master.

This is the high heat aluminum insulation we use (you see it alot on diesel firewalls near heat source). You may be able to just use shield with out insulation giving anough air gap. I still have some insulation left if you need some, just let me know and i'll cut you some and send it to you.

Sammons,

Thanks for the ideas and the offer, I will definitely use one.  I would hate to use up your material, where could I purchase some?

Thank you sir...

Also seen guys use header wrap where clearance was too tight for shield, worked well.

[munch]

Munch sometimes it's easier to build a sheet metal heat shield around the exhaust (if room allows) Or if there is something to bolt it too, a shield around the master cyl.
I make them up all the time, (my buddies diesel/turbo exhaust).  Try to leave around 3/4 to 1" air gap.
Roll out some sheet metal (around 1/2 of the exhaust) and about 2" longer than master cyl. Then make two Z brackets to weld on each inner side. Spay color (header paint to keep from rusting) then glue high heat insulation (aluminium side towards heat) and two hose clamps to fasten.  Opt #2, fab and bolt a shield around side of master.

This is the high heat aluminum insulation we use (you see it alot on diesel firewalls near heat source). You may be able to just use shield with out insulation giving anough air gap. I still have some insulation left if you need some, just let me know and i'll cut you some and send it to you.

Sammons,

Thanks for the ideas and the offer, I will definitely use one.  I would hate to use up your material, where could I purchase some?

Thank you sir...

Also seen guys use header wrap where clearance was too tight for shield, worked well.

  My setup looks similar to the attached.

[sammons]

Munch, he got it thru "Heatshield Products" they sell heat wrap, heat shield, hightemp stuff. A diesel salvage yard truck should have some on it also. I can easily spare a 6"x12" piece if needed.

[munch]

Munch, he got it thru "Heatshield Products" they sell heat wrap, heat shield, hightemp stuff. A diesel salvage yard truck should have some on it also. I can easily spare a 6"x12" piece if needed.

Thanks Sammons...  I do have clearance issues, could this material be wrapped around the pipe?

[sammons]

No, it needs an air gap. It's not a direct contact insulation. I would use the exhaust wrap in that case. Heatshied products sells the Lava wrap, but a lot of local shops should sell header wrap, or Speedway. Just wrap around and attach with mechanics wire tie at each end. The more you overlap the less heat escapes. Should be able to hold your hand on it without burning it. Hope that helps.

Just looked at speedway, they sell this shield and wrap kits.

[munch]

No, it needs an air gap. It's not a direct contact insulation. I would use the exhaust wrap in that case. Heatshied products sells the Lava wrap, but a lot of local shops should sell header wrap, or Speedway. Just wrap around and attach with mechanics wire tie at each end. The more you overlap the less heat escapes. Should be able to hold your hand on it without burning it. Hope that helps.

Just looked at speedway, they sell this shield and wrap kits.

Will do, thank you sir...