Rusty Bowtie
General Category => General Discussion - Intros => Topic started by: munch on February 17, 2017, 02:41:47 PM
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While I am trying to finish my other projects, EFI and 4-link, I am thinking about exhaust. Particularly the sound. What do you guys go for? Do you like it loud, quite, or prefer the deep throaty sound of tuned exhaust like corvettes or mustangs?
For me, I run Flowmasters, currently with no tail pipes, and it is too loud.
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I like the quite, I'm running shorty headers with Hooker mufflers and short exhaust pipes with rectangular chrome tips.
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I like it a little loud, but I want to be able to hold a conversation inside the car. I don't think the tuned exhaust, like you might hear on a Corvette, works too well on a hot rod. I am running 3" pipes with a Turbo muffler knock-off, and tailpipes coming out the rear. It sounds like a hot rod to me, not too loud, but you know it's coming.
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I like the deep throaty sound. Not too loud because being an open car I just like the rumble. I too am running shorty headers with Hooker Turbo Mufflers. I went with 2 1/4" tubing, probably should have gone with 2 1/2" but wanted to make sure I had enough clearance because I was going to run tail pipes all the way out to the back. Leaf springs and the gas tank took up a lot of space.
I had turbo mufflers on my 66 Chevy II with a 283. I liked the way it sounded that's why went with the above.
Tom
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I like all three, depends on the car and it's use. I like to never figured out how to make my '57 sound like a high horse mid '60s SBC Corvette. I measured how far back from the headers to the muffler, didn't work. Then I realized it was that the muffler was at the back with just a tip, bingo. I have Walker long blue glasspaks on my R/T with the resinators removed. Good sound till wound, tail pipes too long and gets cackly. Had it's counter part 500 conv , 383 with wisper quiet muffs. Late night beer drinking car, with quiet tires. You could flat smoke them, no noise...just smoke. ;D
Use the flowmasters alot also. My coupe will be as loud as I can get away with. ;)
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See if this work for you guys...just uploaded a video of my son's 37 Chevy with the Z28 LT1 driveline. The picture is sideways but the exhaust sound is the purpose of the video. I have DSL so it takes forever to open on my PC...I need to ask him again which mufflers he used.
MAY TAKE SOME TIME TO PLAY?
http://rustybowtie.com/37exhaust.mp4
FYI: They are Flowmasters 40 series
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I was trying to go 50's old school 6cyl loud.
I ran 2" from the headers into single 2" and 12" glasspack that exits out the back.
It's got a good rumble during idle and part throttle but when I open up the 4barrels it gets LOUD, even inside the car. :o
Most people tell me I pulled off the 50's sound perfectly. 8)
For the first time I my life I kept the quiet stock exhaust on my daily driver.
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I used Thrush stainless mufflers and 3" in and out pipe all the way (needed low back pressure for my cam setup) When I first started driving it I thought the sound at highway speed was excessive but after a1000 miles it mellowed out and has a nice deep tone with a nice lope at idle. Unfortunately for some unknown reason Thrush stopped offering them a couple of years ago. I have a few friends who run various style of Flowmaster's and I think for the most part they sound pretty nice. There is a video on YouTube where you can get an idea of how each version sounds....Here's the link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcqJmwaDfYE).
Couple of pic's of my 32's system
(http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/media/rear2.227901/full?d=1399644384)(http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/media/undercarriage-1.227903/full?d=1399644384)
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Tom, you and Moose' chassis looks real nice! Ed, your son's 37 sounds good.
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I was trying to go 50's old school 6cyl loud.
I ran 2" from the headers into single 2" and 12" glasspack that exits out the back.
It's got a good rumble during idle and part throttle but when I open up the 4barrels it gets LOUD, even inside the car. :o
Most people tell me I pulled off the 50's sound perfectly. 8)
For the first time I my life I kept the quiet stock exhaust on my daily driver.
On my pickup with the 270 GMC 6 I have Fenton cast headers with 2 1/2" pipe onto 2". Inlines like a bit of back pressure. I first built it with straight pipes out the back but that lasted one trip to Reno and back. When I got home I put two 18" glass packs on it. It is still loud but not inside. Both pipes are on the left side. Good tone through the RPM range and "rapps" really nice.
One time I had it into a single 3" Flowmaster exiting in front of the driver side rear wheel. Power suffered and it felt like it was sucking my brain out through my left ear. One of the "old school" six exhaust setups was to split the stock manifold in a way that put #1 into one pipe and #2,3,4,5, in the other. The two cylinders either had no muffler on a short glass pack. The other had a longer quieter muffler on the other. The two cylinders popped while the four were mellow. Unique sound but didn't do too much for performance. ::)
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See if this work for you guys...just uploaded a video of my son's 37 Chevy with the Z28 LT1 driveline. The picture is sideways but the exhaust sound is the purpose of the video. I have DSL so it takes forever to open on my PC...I need to ask him again which mufflers he used.
Ed,
I like the sound of that very much.
MAY TAKE SOME TIME TO PLAY?
http://rustybowtie.com/37exhaust.mp4
FYI: They are Flowmasters 40 series
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Can't get that one to load either :(
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See if this work for you guys...just uploaded a video of my son's 37 Chevy with the Z28 LT1 driveline. The picture is sideways but the exhaust sound is the purpose of the video. I have DSL so it takes forever to open on my PC...I need to ask him again which mufflers he used.
MAY TAKE SOME TIME TO PLAY?
http://rustybowtie.com/37exhaust.mp4
FYI: They are Flowmasters 40 series
Ed,
I like the sound of that very much.
It reminds me of those Mustang 5.0 engines...
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See if this work for you guys...just uploaded a video of my son's 37 Chevy with the Z28 LT1 driveline. The picture is sideways but the exhaust sound is the purpose of the video. I have DSL so it takes forever to open on my PC...I need to ask him again which mufflers he used.
MAY TAKE SOME TIME TO PLAY?
http://rustybowtie.com/37exhaust.mp4
FYI: They are Flowmasters 40 series
Nothing sideways about the sound of that exhaust....NICE! That's the sound I would look for.
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right click on the link and use OPEN to get it too work if using windows 7
nice bark to the exhaust, typical of what to expect from flow master 40's.
Full length headers, crossover pipe, exit at rear bumper , and size of pipe all effect the sound.
If you installed the GM HOT CAM set up with 1.6 roller rockers , special valve springs , retainers and locks and higher lift longer duration cam..........you pick up 40 hp with cam and wildly surprising 35 hp with roller 1.6 rockers. Throw on a set of the new fast burn heads and get another 30 hp.
mike 8)
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That video downloads and opens automatically on my laptop, but on my desktop it loads very slowly. Might be easier to download and then open it. Sorry guys...
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I used Thrush stainless mufflers and 3" in and out pipe all the way (needed low back pressure for my cam setup) When I first started driving it I thought the sound at highway speed was excessive but after a1000 miles it mellowed out and has a nice deep tone with a nice lope at idle. Unfortunately for some unknown reason Thrush stopped offering them a couple of years ago. I have a few friends who run various style of Flowmaster's and I think for the most part they sound pretty nice. There is a video on YouTube where you can get an idea of how each version sounds....Here's the link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcqJmwaDfYE).
Couple of pic's of my 32's system
(http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/media/rear2.227901/full?d=1399644384)(http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/media/undercarriage-1.227903/full?d=1399644384)
Moose,
I see in the picture that your mufflers appear to be the same, or close, height as your running board brackets. How muck clearance is there from the muffler bottom to the road?
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I like the deep throaty sound. Not too loud because being an open car I just like the rumble. I too am running shorty headers with Hooker Turbo Mufflers. I went with 2 1/4" tubing, probably should have gone with 2 1/2" but wanted to make sure I had enough clearance because I was going to run tail pipes all the way out to the back. Leaf springs and the gas tank took up a lot of space.
I had turbo mufflers on my 66 Chevy II with a 283. I liked the way it sounded that's why went with the above.
Tom
Tom,
How much Clarence is there from the muffler bottom to the road?
Thanks
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Tom,
How much Clarence is there from the muffler bottom to the road?
Thanks
Munch,
I have 8 1/2" of clearance from my shop floor to the bottom of the mufflers. About 8" to the bottom of the rear running board mount.
Tom
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Tom,
How much Clarence is there from the muffler bottom to the road?
Thanks
Munch,
I have 8 1/2" of clearance from my shop floor to the bottom of the mufflers. About 8" to the bottom of the rear running board mount.
Tom
Thanks Tom, I only have 5 inches. But I see you ran your exhaust pipe above the bottom bar of your transmission support. Not sure if I can do that because it brings it close to the master cylinder. Afraid of the heat. Maybe I can kick it up by wielding a two tight 90s together after the trans mount.
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Sorry I missed you post munch but I measured it today and have 7 inches from the bottom of the muffler to the floor. The rear spring u bolt plates are 5 so the mufflers should be OK.
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Sorry I missed you post munch but I measured it today and have 7 inches from the bottom of the muffler to the floor. The rear spring u bolt plates are 5 so the mufflers should be OK.
Thanks Moose, I got 5 1/4 so I guess I better find a way to get them up. I got some ideas.
I need to retire so I'll have more time...
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Tom,
How much Clarence is there from the muffler bottom to the road?
Thanks
Munch,
I have 8 1/2" of clearance from my shop floor to the bottom of the mufflers. About 8" to the bottom of the rear running board mount.
Tom
Tom,
I have routed the exhaust above the transmission mount and it looks good, but I think I need some way to protect the master cylinder from the heat. Any ideas?
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Munch sometimes it's easier to build a sheet metal heat shield around the exhaust (if room allows) Or if there is something to bolt it too, a shield around the master cyl.
I make them up all the time, (my buddies diesel/turbo exhaust). Try to leave around 3/4 to 1" air gap.
Roll out some sheet metal (around 1/2 of the exhaust) and about 2" longer than master cyl. Then make two Z brackets to weld on each inner side. Spay color (header paint to keep from rusting) then glue high heat insulation (aluminium side towards heat) and two hose clamps to fasten. Opt #2, fab and bolt a shield around side of master.
This is the high heat aluminum insulation we use (you see it alot on diesel firewalls near heat source). You may be able to just use shield with out insulation giving anough air gap. I still have some insulation left if you need some, just let me know and i'll cut you some and send it to you.
Also seen guys use header wrap where clearance was too tight for shield, worked well.
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Munch sometimes it's easier to build a sheet metal heat shield around the exhaust (if room allows) Or if there is something to bolt it too, a shield around the master cyl.
I make them up all the time, (my buddies diesel/turbo exhaust). Try to leave around 3/4 to 1" air gap.
Roll out some sheet metal (around 1/2 of the exhaust) and about 2" longer than master cyl. Then make two Z brackets to weld on each inner side. Spay color (header paint to keep from rusting) then glue high heat insulation (aluminium side towards heat) and two hose clamps to fasten. Opt #2, fab and bolt a shield around side of master.
This is the high heat aluminum insulation we use (you see it alot on diesel firewalls near heat source). You may be able to just use shield with out insulation giving anough air gap. I still have some insulation left if you need some, just let me know and i'll cut you some and send it to you.
Sammons,
Thanks for the ideas and the offer, I will definitely use one. I would hate to use up your material, where could I purchase some?
Thank you sir...
Also seen guys use header wrap where clearance was too tight for shield, worked well.
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Munch sometimes it's easier to build a sheet metal heat shield around the exhaust (if room allows) Or if there is something to bolt it too, a shield around the master cyl.
I make them up all the time, (my buddies diesel/turbo exhaust). Try to leave around 3/4 to 1" air gap.
Roll out some sheet metal (around 1/2 of the exhaust) and about 2" longer than master cyl. Then make two Z brackets to weld on each inner side. Spay color (header paint to keep from rusting) then glue high heat insulation (aluminium side towards heat) and two hose clamps to fasten. Opt #2, fab and bolt a shield around side of master.
This is the high heat aluminum insulation we use (you see it alot on diesel firewalls near heat source). You may be able to just use shield with out insulation giving anough air gap. I still have some insulation left if you need some, just let me know and i'll cut you some and send it to you.
Sammons,
Thanks for the ideas and the offer, I will definitely use one. I would hate to use up your material, where could I purchase some?
Thank you sir...
Also seen guys use header wrap where clearance was too tight for shield, worked well.
My setup looks similar to the attached.
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Munch, he got it thru "Heatshield Products" they sell heat wrap, heat shield, hightemp stuff. A diesel salvage yard truck should have some on it also. I can easily spare a 6"x12" piece if needed.
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Munch, he got it thru "Heatshield Products" they sell heat wrap, heat shield, hightemp stuff. A diesel salvage yard truck should have some on it also. I can easily spare a 6"x12" piece if needed.
Thanks Sammons... I do have clearance issues, could this material be wrapped around the pipe?
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No, it needs an air gap. It's not a direct contact insulation. I would use the exhaust wrap in that case. Heatshied products sells the Lava wrap, but a lot of local shops should sell header wrap, or Speedway. Just wrap around and attach with mechanics wire tie at each end. The more you overlap the less heat escapes. Should be able to hold your hand on it without burning it. Hope that helps.
Just looked at speedway, they sell this shield and wrap kits.
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No, it needs an air gap. It's not a direct contact insulation. I would use the exhaust wrap in that case. Heatshied products sells the Lava wrap, but a lot of local shops should sell header wrap, or Speedway. Just wrap around and attach with mechanics wire tie at each end. The more you overlap the less heat escapes. Should be able to hold your hand on it without burning it. Hope that helps.
Just looked at speedway, they sell this shield and wrap kits.
Will do, thank you sir...
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No, it needs an air gap. It's not a direct contact insulation. I would use the exhaust wrap in that case. Heatshied products sells the Lava wrap, but a lot of local shops should sell header wrap, or Speedway. Just wrap around and attach with mechanics wire tie at each end. The more you overlap the less heat escapes. Should be able to hold your hand on it without burning it. Hope that helps.
Just looked at speedway, they sell this shield and wrap kits.
I used the wrap as you can see, I sure hope it works.
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Munch that looks like it should work fine. When I rebuilt one of my friends '55, (ex-drag car) we put the inner fender back in but he wanted to keep the fenderwell headers. He wanted to keep the hole as small as possible so I wrapped them and gave 1/2" clearance around them. It never bubbled the paint.
I hope I have enough airflow with no side panels that the right header tube dosen't bubble my paint as it is close to the firewall or I will have to wrap that area.
P.s. I did try to trace down my friend last year near his birthday. All of his family moved or passed away back in the mid 80's so no help there. Tried an internet search, with a common first name and a last name of Smith....there was over 400 in that area. Have to wait till he contacts somebody here some day.
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Munch that looks like it should work fine. When I rebuilt one of my friends '55, (ex-drag car) we put the inner fender back in but he wanted to keep the fenderwell headers. He wanted to keep the hole as small as possible so I wrapped them and gave 1/2" clearance around them. It never bubbled the paint.
I hope I have enough airflow with no side panels that the right header tube dosen't bubble my paint as it is close to the firewall or I will have to wrap that area.
P.s. I did try to trace down my friend last year near his birthday. All of his family moved or passed away back in the mid 80's so no help there. Tried an internet search, with a common first name and a last name of Smith....there was over 400 in that area. Have to wait till he contacts somebody here some day.
Thanks Sammons. I find as I get older and am getting ready to retire, I find myself thinking of a lot of old friends. Hopefully retirement will give me time and encouragement to look them up as well. :)