Rusty Bowtie
General Category => General Discussion - Intros => Topic started by: munch on April 16, 2016, 10:40:33 AM
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Can anyone school me on installing and setting a 4 link? I currently have leafs. Would you just wield the brackets and install the components as it sits with the leafs and then take the leafs out?
Thanks
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triangulated or straight? If you have the room and your axle is sitting in the correct place, I don't see why this wouldn't work. Usually on my builds I have to start from scratch by lining the axle for ride height, square, pinion angle, and coilover placement. I then weld brackets to the axle and frame to keep it tight and then build off all this.
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A Triangulated looks like picture #1. No panhard bar required to keep the rear end centered. A straight looks like picture #2. Requires a panhard bar to keep the rear end centered. Is there a reason you want to remove the leaf springs? I have leaf springs in mine and I'm happy with how it rides.
Tom
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triangulated or straight? If you have the room and your axle is sitting in the correct place, I don't see why this wouldn't work. Usually on my builds I have to start from scratch by lining the axle for ride height, square, pinion angle, and coilover placement. I then weld brackets to the axle and frame to keep it tight and then build off all this.
Straight
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Here are some links to more than you want to know.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/triangulated-4-link-question-help.642930/ (http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/triangulated-4-link-question-help.642930/)
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/4-link-setup-help.627399/ (http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/4-link-setup-help.627399/)
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showwiki.php?title=Rear+Axel+and+Suspension:Rear+Link+Supension+Types+and+Theroy (http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showwiki.php?title=Rear+Axel+and+Suspension:Rear+Link+Supension+Types+and+Theroy)
Pages 6-9 of this link show the system I going to use on my '26 roadster. It uses 1/4 elliptic springs as the bottom links. He has been driving this for quite a while now and says it works well. It's a natural for a Chevy.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-malcolm-model-a-roadster-build-updated-01-23-11.543427/page-6 (http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-malcolm-model-a-roadster-build-updated-01-23-11.543427/page-6)
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A Triangulated looks like picture #1. No panhard bar required to keep the rear end centered. A straight looks like picture #2. Requires a panhard bar to keep the rear end centered. Is there a reason you want to remove the leaf springs? I have leaf springs in mine and I'm happy with how it rides.
Tom
I don't know much about the leaf setup (what it came out of, correct number of leaf, etc.) and I just thought 4 link may be a better ride.
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you tube link
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=https:%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DbME08UU4Chc
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FYI: With a link rear end you don't have the disc brake issues like calipers hitting leaf springs etc.
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I installed a Speedway setup in my 30 after trying to use lowering blocks and playing with removing springs.I haven't driven it yet but seems to be okay has right stance now.Had to install angle iron across frame so I had something to attach coilovers too. I will attach some pictures.
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I installed a parallel 4-link under my 35. If I remember correctly they actually recommended leaving the leafs on the car for setup. This helps make sure all of the angles and wheel position stayed the same. I used Ridetech's setup. I am probably shoot some pictures if you would like.
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I installed a parallel 4-link under my 35. If I remember correctly they actually recommended leaving the leafs on the car for setup. This helps make sure all of the angles and wheel position stayed the same. I used Ridetech's setup. I am probably shoot some pictures if you would like.
Thanks, that would be great.
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I installed a Speedway setup in my 30 after trying to use lowering blocks and playing with removing springs.I haven't driven it yet but seems to be okay has right stance now.Had to install angle iron across frame so I had something to attach coilovers too. I will attach some pictures.
chemong,
What is the Speedway model number?
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Here are some pics from the build. I had to cut out the floor for the panhard bar. This was only to get it as low as I wanted (it is on air ride). I can get more pics if you would like. Just let me know what you need.
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This has turned int an interesting thread. There seem to be as many ways to build a 4 link as there are guys to build them. ::)
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Here are some pics from the build. I had to cut out the floor for the panhard bar. This was only to get it as low as I wanted (it is on air ride). I can get more pics if you would like. Just let me know what you need.
Senior,
I am think that mounting the hardware first before I remove the leaf is the way to go to get everything correct. That is if I can install the brackets just inside the leafs and be ok.
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Munch here is the Link price higher than when I purchased in 2013 $499.00
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Deluxe-Coil-Over-Rear-Suspension-Kit-Chrome,15373.html
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Here are some pics from the build. I had to cut out the floor for the panhard bar. This was only to get it as low as I wanted (it is on air ride). I can get more pics if you would like. Just let me know what you need.
Senior,
I am think that mounting the hardware first before I remove the leaf is the way to go to get everything correct. That is if I can install the brackets just inside the leafs and be ok.
Munch,
This is what I plan on doing on my 34. The guy I bought it off of started restoring it in the 80's, but left the shackles and springs in the original location. I am going to put a triangulated setup in it instead of the parallel so I don't need to cut the trunk area.
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Munch here is the Link price higher than when I purchased in 2013 $499.00
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Deluxe-Coil-Over-Rear-Suspension-Kit-Chrome,15373.html
Thanks, was it a good fit for the 30? What spring rate did you choose? How much fabrication did you have to do?
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Munch. I usually buy the 250# spring weight, but I buy the QA1 coilovers from speedway, best bang for the buck on either triangulated or the standard 4 link, I shop Ebay under 32 ford for these items because they are all the same, and I can usually find a stainless bar set with all the brackets for around a little over $200.00 and even sometimes a little less if you scroll through the deals. You can get shipping free with the right seller. Gearhead is a good supplier on Ebay for these.
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I don't understand setting up the ride height. How do you figure of spring compression? It seems that if you tack the rear end in place and build to that height that when weight is on the springs it will be lower. I am going to use 1/4 elliptics leafs so it is not as easy to adjust as coil overs.
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triangulated or straight? If you have the room and your axle is sitting in the correct place, I don't see why this wouldn't work. Usually on my builds I have to start from scratch by lining the axle for ride height, square, pinion angle, and coilover placement. I then weld brackets to the axle and frame to keep it tight and then build off all this.
Ghost,
Can I mount the bar and shock bracket inside the rear end enough to clear the leaf and shock mount and weld a bar across the frame to mount the front bars to? This would allow me to remove the leafs after and retain the setup. Could I then do it on the lift with no support under the tires?
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Munch I can' remember what weight of the springs, will try to dig up that info.As for the fit I am using a 68 Firebird rear end and it came together real well.I used a plumb bob to find the center of axle and marked it on the frame as I think the original spring perch are in the way.It takes a lot of measuring to get everything lined up then I just tacked everything together and re measured before final welding.I also used these from Speedway to get my ride height and shocks are on the middle hole which still gives me some adjustment.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Rear-Shock-Mount,3334.html
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Munch I can' remember what weight of the springs, will try to dig up that info.As for the fit I am using a 68 Firebird rear end and it came together real well.I used a plumb bob to find the center of axle and marked it on the frame as I think the original spring perch are in the way.It takes a lot of measuring to get everything lined up then I just tacked everything together and re measured before final welding.I also used these from Speedway to get my ride height and shocks are on the middle hole which still gives me some adjustment.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Rear-Shock-Mount,3334.html
Thank you sir, I am trying to figure out a way to install the new before removing the old leaf and keep everything setup.
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Ghost,
Can I mount the bar and shock bracket inside the rear end enough to clear the leaf and shock mount and weld a bar across the frame to mount the front bars to? This would allow me to remove the leafs after and retain the setup. Could I then do it on the lift with no support under the tires?
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You could probably do that, It just might work if you can keep the brackets out close to the springs as far as possible, but it might move your center of gravity to far inboard and cause a little more body lean around corners than you would like. What you could do to get everything out of your way is put it up on a rack supported by the tires at first, and tack weld a few bars in strategic locations to stablize the housing location and pinion angle. then frame support the body and remove the original equipment and build the new parts in any location you want.
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Ghost,
Can I mount the bar and shock bracket inside the rear end enough to clear the leaf and shock mount and weld a bar across the frame to mount the front bars to? This would allow me to remove the leafs after and retain the setup. Could I then do it on the lift with no support under the tires?
You could probably do that, It just might work if you can keep the brackets out close to the springs as far as possible, but it might move your center of gravity to far inboard and cause a little more body lean around corners than you would like. What you could do to get everything out of your way is put it up on a rack supported by the tires at first, and tack weld a few bars in strategic locations to stablize the housing location and pinion angle. then frame support the body and remove the original equipment and build the new parts in any location you want.
In this picture I think I can accomplish what you say by wielding a bar across the frame then wielding the rear end to it. That can be done with it sitting on the ground. Then take it up on the lift and replace everything. Is that about it?
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Ghost28 Don't forget a stabilizer bar tied to the rear and going to one side or the other or use two one on top of the rear end and one on the bottom of the rear GOOGLE 4 link set up for street rods and also google stabilizer bars for front or rear of street rods. And don't forget to have a good day AH Vette59jdwl
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I installed a Speedway setup in my 30 after trying to use lowering blocks and playing with removing springs.I haven't driven it yet but seems to be okay has right stance now.Had to install angle iron across frame so I had something to attach coilovers too. I will attach some pictures.
Chemong55
I do not have enough room behind the axle to mount the shocks, the coil overs would rub the gas tank. Do you have enough room for the tank?
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MUNCH i don't feel that it makes much difference where you mount the shocks,you could mount them out close to the frame rails either in front of or behind the axle if something is interfering with your positioning them ,then you could make a gusset and mount them further away from the axle
vette59jdwl
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MUNCH i don't feel that it makes much difference where you mount the shocks,you could mount them out close to the frame rails either in front of or behind the axle if something is interfering with your positioning them ,then you could make a gusset and mount them further away from the axle
vette59jdwl
Thanks, I slowed down enough to figure that one out myself, I jump the gun too much...
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I acquired another 4 link setup that would allow me to mount me shocks in front of the rear end, and now I have some duplicate hardware components. The 4 link bars for instance are 30 inches instead of 24 and the shorter ones about 6 inches longer as well. Would it make any difference which length I use.
Thanks
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I wouldn't think it would matter as long as they are from the same set.
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munch
Just saw your question.checked and have at least 6" between top of coilover and gas tank.
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munch
Just saw your question.checked and have at least 6" between top of coilover and gas tank.
Thank you sir, but mine is too close. I have come up with an alternative plan, wish me luck...
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I am including a picture of my lower control arm of my triangular 4 link. I am concerned about the angle because it seems to be more than the pictures I have seen, but as you see it runs parallel with the leaf. I also found this excerpt from a thread on the H.A.M.B
What do you all think?
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As long as your upper links are at the same angle or degree as the bottom bars you shouldn't have a problem. I usually leave the nuts loose on all bars so they can turn on the threads if needed to lessen any bind that might happen. It wont come out of adjustment by doing this.
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As long as your upper links are at the same angle or degree as the bottom bars you shouldn't have a problem. I usually leave the nuts loose on all bars so they can turn on the threads if needed to lessen any bind that might happen. It wont come out of adjustment by doing this.
Ghost,
Not sure I understand what you mean about same angle or degree. It is a triangular 4 link and the uppers will be different.
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Not sure I understand what you mean about same angle or degree. It is a triangular 4 link and the uppers will be different.
[/quote] Sorry. I should have said level with each other, Yes I agree the angles will be different as a triangulated.
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Not sure I understand what you mean about same angle or degree. It is a triangular 4 link and the uppers will be different.
Sorry. I should have said level with each other, Yes I agree the angles will be different as a triangulated.
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Thanks Ghost, I had no idea there was so much to learn about this...